Street fighter/ Bobber build 2.0

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    Ok got the cams, sprockets and timing chain installed dots lined up yes...sprockets arrows up yes...full rotation every things a go....rechecked clearances and most widened in clearance by .001-.002 after lapping the valves so that answers one of my previous questions....

    Lucky for me shifting the shims around gets me in spec in both Ex and In...

    Purchased the motion pro shim tool so have to find the trick to its use wish me luck......

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    As a thought, when I did the ENGINE in Special Ed's bike, I set the valves up very loose. I think a few were 1/2 shim too loose, but it just made a little extra noise at first. The engine has quieted down quite a bit in the 3K miles Ed has put on it. I need to re-check clearance, but it should be OK.(famous last words...) I'll probably check it in about four to six weeks, once Ed is able to ride again.
    I DID install cams ONE AT A TIME to check the valves, All intake then all exhaust. I then shimmed them just looser than the '79 spec., as I know they will tighten up as the valves seat in. This was all done BEFORE installing the head, of course.
    Last edited by DiverRay; 04-03-2015, 06:07 PM.

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    Well, the change in valve shim to cam lobe clearance after lapping the valves really depends on how much you lap the valves. I know, "Duh!" Unless you totally chimp out on the head the clearances shouldn't change all that much, maybe a shim size or two.

    You'll have to check the clearance again in at most couple of thousand miles because the valves will seat all over again after lapping.

    .

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    Anyone know how much change in valve clearance after re-lapping the valves..... I know it's speculative...... I don't have a valve tool so may have to install and tear down a couple times

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    Good point!

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  • CaptonZap
    replied
    Originally posted by Fearthepack
    Sharkhide very interesting product. I wonder if the nuts could be torqued after application? Says it stays flexible won't chip or peel....
    Personally, I take a Q-tip and use it to paint the nut after it is FINAL torqued. Chipping and peeling is not the same as being smashed.
    Takes more time, but I figure that the nut is not going to be abused for many thousands of miles, so the coating will not be broken till then.


    CZ

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    Sharkhide very interesting product. I wonder if the nuts could be torqued after application? Says it stays flexible won't chip or peel....

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  • CaptonZap
    replied
    Originally posted by Fearthepack
    Opinions please... how long would wire wheeled head bolts stay this way or return to old rusty nuts?





    http://sharkhide.com/






    CZ

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  • jetmechmarty
    replied
    Originally posted by Fearthepack
    How long do the parts remain rust free if nothing else is done afterwords?
    Unprotected in a damp basement; about ten minutes. In the Arizona desert; a lot longer. It also depends upon the composition of the metal. Metal Rescue has a product that you spray on the bare metal that will keep it from rusting for up to a year. Once again, that depends entirely upon the environment. On a head bolt, it will probably work fine for a few days.

    If you don't want steel to rust, you will have to plate it, paint it, or otherwise cover it with a barrier to protect it.

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    How long do the parts remain rust free if nothing else is done afterwords?

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  • jetmechmarty
    replied
    Originally posted by Fearthepack
    Anyone use the Evapo-rust with success need to do my tank as well?
    I used Metal Rescue. I believe it's very similar. Since Home Depot has it now, I won't be switching. Why fool with success?

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    Anyone use the Evapo-rust with success need to do my tank as well?

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  • Fearthepack
    replied
    I'll do a little science project and soak them in evapo-rust then install them and see how long before rust comes back. I painted the head black so touching up the head bolts in black wont be a big deal.

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  • jetmechmarty
    replied
    Originally posted by bikerphil
    They were probably zinc plated.
    I think due to the vintage of the bike, they may be cadmium plated. Zinc plating is an option now.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    They were probably zinc plated.

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