I am stumped

[79XS11F]

I think you're looking for a miracle you aren't likely to get, at least not "ONCE AND FOR ALL".

OK, how about ONCE AND FOR THIS FALL LOL LOL

Rob

[79XS11F]

I hit the shafts from inside the mouths with 3 and 1 oil. It's pretty light. Suitable for sewing machines and it seems to have done the job.
I will be very pleased if this proves to be the root of the problem I have been having.
Rob

[dbeardslee]

While you've got 'em off you might check the slides while you're at it. Stick a finger back in the bell and lift up on the slides to make sure they're all moving freely, and that they all return at about the same speed. I've found them sticky before, even after they were cleaned, and very light oil on them sometimes helps. If I'm going to use oil on the slides I usually do it with the slides out, and just wipe a light coat along the bottom half of the slides, and I make sure the bores are clean. I'm sure they don't have anything to do with the butterflies being sticky, but hey, might as well check 'em while they're right there in front of you.

[mack]

Cursed

It's almost like your cursed Rob. I opened those butterflyies and they snapped closed everyting time, at least 15 times during and after the bench sync I tried them. Back the butterfly screws out just a bit on the stuck carb and work the action again. If that works, then shift the shaft just a tad left or right and re-tighten. Oil won't accomplish anything.

[motoman]

Okay, so I have the 3 ohm accel coils in place with all wiring connections good and tight including the plug leads at the coils and the plugs. Ballast resister is bypassed. The miss is still there but not as frequent. She is running smoother now. Mack will be by tomorrow with my cleaned and set up carbs and I hope that once they are on the bike the miss will be gone. I'm wondering if I should go grab another fresh set of plugs for her. CTC is right beside the liquor store
Rob

Just gonna have to jump in here for a minute.If you have not already, turn key on and THEN check batt. voltage. Then with coiks unplugged, key still on check IBPUT voltage to coils. Example: If batt. is showing 12.3v, then that HAS to be the same voltage at primary coil leads. If it is not the same lower voltage isue is either at kill switch, primary coil plug-ins on right sie of frame at top frame rail or both. Low er voltage to coils cause the miss your having. Take your trusty volt meter and check those two points FIRST before getting sidetracked somewhere else.

[79XS11F]

It's almost like your cursed Rob. I opened those butterflyies and they snapped closed everyting time, at least 15 times during and after the bench sync I tried them. Back the butterfly screws out just a bit on the stuck carb and work the action again. If that works, then shift the shaft just a tad left or right and re-tighten. Oil won't accomplish anything.

I was going to do that but those screws are extremely tight and there's no reason to believe that the shaft position has changed. If the sticking is related to dryness between the shaft and the carb body lubrication should be helpful.
Rob

[79XS11F]

It looks like the action on the butterfly valve in this #2 carb is what I would call heavy compared to the other 3 carbs. With the other 3 the butterfly valves snap closed and the action is very light. On this #2 carb the butterfly valve closes under the return springs pressure but when moved by hand the action is noticeably heaver.
I guess I will have to disassemble it and see what's going on. Maybe the carb body's shaft bore is pitted or perhaps it's just very dry. I hope I can get those freaking tiny screws out or at least loosened. There's a slim chance that the butterfly itself just needs to reseat itself in the throat of the carb.
Rob

[mack]

Rob

The oil thing might work, thinking about it, three 50 minute cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner probably dried it's action out pretty good. When you spray, try to get it inside where the shaft enters the carb body on both left and right. May want to stand them up one way spray and leave it for awile then the other side.

[79XS11F]

The oil thing might work, thinking about it, three 50 minute cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner probably dried it's action out pretty good. When you spray, try to get it inside where the shaft enters the carb body on both left and right. May want to stand them up one way spray and leave it for awile then the other side.

That's what I did but the action is still heavy but should be very light. After oiling the shaft the butterfly fully closes so it must have been sticky when the bench snyc was done. If this carb butterfly has been doing this it could in fact be what is causing my "ghost in the machine" issue. If that butterfly has been behaving like this all along and doing so intermittently it would be near impossible to truly tune the engine and find another potential problem at the same time.
Rob

[jetmechmarty]

Those screws are JIS. Be extra careful if you're using a phillips.

[madmax-im]

Those screws are JIS. Be extra careful if you're using a phillips.

what does JIS mean???

[79XS11F]

Those screws are JIS. Be extra careful if you're using a phillips.

Yeah I know they are different. I will ether have to go out and buy a JIS driver or find my best fit Philips and grind the tip down a bit. They are always shallower then true Philips and I really don't want to damage them.
For those who don't know, when you see a Philips screw and there is a single dot or sometimes an X on the head of the screw, it indicates that the screw is JIS which I think stands for Japanese Industry Standard. It's slightly different then a Philips.
Rob

[madmax-im]

Cool...I never knew this....

[IanDMacDonald]

Mmhmm. I try to replace just about every fastener with a SHCS on every bike I own.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rob,

It's not just that they are JIS, but also...I'm sure you know this, moreso stating for other newbies that may read this thread....the ends of the screws are PEENED to keep them from working loose and getting sucked into the engine. SO.....you'll need to use your dremmel to remove the peened portion of the screws before trying to loosent them....should allow you to loosen them easier and even with STANDARD philips driver. You'll just want to use some RED locktite when you put them back in.....or get some new ones so you can PEEN them again!?

T.C.