Rear wheel bearing LEFT side

[James England]

Thanks Schming. So, I'm looking for looseness or no? I hope I don't see one or the other. I have abunch of Yamaha oil seals, etc. that I have no idea what to do with.

What you should do, Ian, is take your rear wheel off and remove the inner bearing race (a small tube). Clean thoroughly all the old grease off the bearing rollers and the inner race. (I use white spirit on a paintbrush). It may resemble candle wax or worse. Once everything is clean, put the inner race back in and turn it with your finger. Also, wiggle it up and down. If there is slack when wiggled, or any sort of roughness or 'gritty' feeling, with rough-feeling or uneven spots as you turn it, then you'd be advised to replace it. Obviously, if you remove the inner race and find the caged needle rollers have become uncaged and drop out, it's the end of that bearing and better to find out with the wheel off the bike rather than when riding. You should replace the other side bearing, which is very cheap and available anywhere, at the same time while you have the wheel off. Then you're good to go!

[IanDMacDonald]

Yeah, I guess its time to man-up and not be so scared about checking those bearings.

[Schming]

Yah Ian, what James said would be your best and safest route to go.

It's much more frightening to lock up the rear wheel, unexpectedly at speed, due to a unmaintained,failed LRWB.

While your in there, might as well lube the final drive shaft splines too.

What are the seals for ?

[IanDMacDonald]

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xn7wuwx5xyke3ux/4yyjdpqVwr

I believe when I looked-up the Yammy numbers, they were all oil seals for the "rear" of the bike? Rear oil seal? Rear main oil seal? Something like that.

I had a thread with pics, but they're gone (pics).

[Schming]

According to Boats.net:

93104-27026 (rgt. rr. axle seal)

93210-58346 (dr. shaft o-ring)

1J3-W0041-?? (frt. MC kit)

1J7-25319-02 (dust seal lft. rr. axle)

That's all the numbers I could make out from your pics.

[IanDMacDonald]

I wonder if I have a need for any of those seals.

[James England]

Yeah, I guess its time to man-up and not be so scared about checking those bearings.

Honestly, it's not daunting. Once the wheel is off, you remove each bearing from the other side of the wheel. The casting of the wheel has little slots next to the outer bearing races. You put a long screwdriver or metal drift in the hub from the opposite side of the wheel and make sure the tip touches the outer bearing race through the little slots. Tap it evenly but firmly, through each slot in turn. The bearing will begin to come out of the hub. Once one is out, you then do the same on the other bearing but it's easier because you have more room, having removed the bearing on the side from which you're tapping.

When installing the new bearings, it helps to put them in the freezer overnight and warm up the hub of the wheel with a hair dryer until the area where the bearings go is warm. Put a thin smear of grease on the outside of the bearing and tap it into the hub evenly across its diameter. I use a socket spanner of the exact correct diameter, or you can use the old bearing. The trick is not to let the new bearing get tilted as it goes into the hub...keep it nice and straight as you tap it in.

It may seem daunting but it isn't. Just remember to put the bearing spacer ( a long tube) into the hub after you've put the first bearing in! You don't want to end up with both bearings installed and then find the tube on the floor!

[skids]

Just remember to put the bearing spacer ( a long tube) into the hub after you've put the first bearing in! You don't want to end up with both bearings installed and then find the tube on the floor!

Oh yeah, that would ruin your day!

[rambler Shawn]

Thanks James for your help! Two bearings underway. Cheers.

[James England]

Thanks James for your help! Two bearings underway. Cheers.

You're welcome! Shawn. I sent the package off to you today, described as a low value gift. It will be with you in up to 10 days....

[Eveready1100]

Just donated my last spare bearings to keep a couple of local XSives on the road, so I'm going to have to restock my spares cabinet again. Can I have another 3 please, James?

[DGXSER]

Honestly, it's not daunting. Once the wheel is off, you remove each bearing from the other side of the wheel. The casting of the wheel has little slots next to the outer bearing races. You put a long screwdriver or metal drift in the hub from the opposite side of the wheel and make sure the tip touches the outer bearing race through the little slots. Tap it evenly but firmly, through each slot in turn. The bearing will begin to come out of the hub. Once one is out, you then do the same on the other bearing but it's easier because you have more room, having removed the bearing on the side from which you're tapping.

Having just completed this process on my current project bike, let me add a few additional steps. You will want to start with removing the bearing and seal on the right or brake rotor side.

First remove the seal. Then there is a C-clip that holds the bearing in place, you need to remove it before hammering away on the bearing. It is a strong bloody thing. I used my long nose C-clip pliers and it snapped the nub off one that goes into the C-clip hole. Since the inner sleeve is not stationary, it lets the inner guide / sleeve easily move to the side to let you have access to the bearing to dive it out. Once you get that bearing out, you can remove the center sleeve. THEN you can see the notches that let you get on the race of the left side bearing. There is also a seal on that side to be removed first. Then get a strong screwdriver, and use some force to drive that one out. Its easier than the steering stem race, but not a lot easier.

[James England]

Just donated my last spare bearings to keep a couple of local XSives on the road, so I'm going to have to restock my spares cabinet again. Can I have another 3 please, James?

On their way to you Errol! You should receive them in about 10 days. I must say, it was very noble of you to help someone out with your previous stash. 10 points to Team Australia (I'm not mentioning The Ashes..)

[James England]

Having just completed this process on my current project bike, let me add a few additional steps. You will want to start with removing the bearing and seal on the right or brake rotor side.

First remove the seal. Then there is a C-clip that holds the bearing in place, you need to remove it before hammering away on the bearing. It is a strong bloody thing. I used my long nose C-clip pliers and it snapped the nub off one that goes into the C-clip hole. Since the inner sleeve is not stationary, it lets the inner guide / sleeve easily move to the side to let you have access to the bearing to dive it out. Once you get that bearing out, you can remove the center sleeve. THEN you can see the notches that let you get on the race of the left side bearing. There is also a seal on that side to be removed first. Then get a strong screwdriver, and use some force to drive that one out. Its easier than the steering stem race, but not a lot easier.

strange, but I don't recall a C clip at all, last time I did mine.. Unless my memory fails me, both bearings were a press-fit without clips. Does it vary between wheel types, I wonder? Or it could be my grey cells...not sure

[Schming]

strange, but I don't recall a C clip at all, last time I did mine.. Unless my memory fails me, both bearings were a press-fit without clips. Does it vary between wheel types, I wonder? Or it could be my grey cells...not sure

Hi James only the "E" didn't come with the circlip

US Models

11E - none
11F - 99009-52500-00
11SF -93420-52014-00 (The Special "Special" )
11G - 99009-52500-00
11LG - 99009-52500-00
11SG - 99009-52500-00
11H - 99009-52500-00
11LH - 99009-52500-00
11SH - 99009-52500-00
11XJ - 99009-52500-00