Originally posted by IanDMacDonald
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Rear wheel bearing LEFT side
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Yeah, I guess its time to man-up and not be so scared about checking those bearings.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Yah Ian, what James said would be your best and safest route to go.
It's much more frightening to lock up the rear wheel, unexpectedly at speed, due to a unmaintained,failed LRWB.
While your in there, might as well lube the final drive shaft splines too.
What are the seals for ?Last edited by Schming; 02-05-2014, 09:39 AM.1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xn7wuwx5xyke3ux/4yyjdpqVwr
I believe when I looked-up the Yammy numbers, they were all oil seals for the "rear" of the bike? Rear oil seal? Rear main oil seal? Something like that.
I had a thread with pics, but they're gone (pics).Last edited by IanDMacDonald; 02-05-2014, 10:32 AM.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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According to Boats.net:
93104-27026 (rgt. rr. axle seal)
93210-58346 (dr. shaft o-ring)
1J3-W0041-?? (frt. MC kit)
1J7-25319-02 (dust seal lft. rr. axle)
That's all the numbers I could make out from your pics.1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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I wonder if I have a need for any of those seals.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostYeah, I guess its time to man-up and not be so scared about checking those bearings.
When installing the new bearings, it helps to put them in the freezer overnight and warm up the hub of the wheel with a hair dryer until the area where the bearings go is warm. Put a thin smear of grease on the outside of the bearing and tap it into the hub evenly across its diameter. I use a socket spanner of the exact correct diameter, or you can use the old bearing. The trick is not to let the new bearing get tilted as it goes into the hub...keep it nice and straight as you tap it in.
It may seem daunting but it isn't. Just remember to put the bearing spacer ( a long tube) into the hub after you've put the first bearing in! You don't want to end up with both bearings installed and then find the tube on the floor!XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by James England View PostJust remember to put the bearing spacer ( a long tube) into the hub after you've put the first bearing in! You don't want to end up with both bearings installed and then find the tube on the floor!Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by rambler Shawn View PostThanks James for your help! Two bearings underway. Cheers.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Just donated my last spare bearings to keep a couple of local XSives on the road, so I'm going to have to restock my spares cabinet again. Can I have another 3 please, James?79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
*Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
*"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers
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Originally posted by James England View PostHonestly, it's not daunting. Once the wheel is off, you remove each bearing from the other side of the wheel. The casting of the wheel has little slots next to the outer bearing races. You put a long screwdriver or metal drift in the hub from the opposite side of the wheel and make sure the tip touches the outer bearing race through the little slots. Tap it evenly but firmly, through each slot in turn. The bearing will begin to come out of the hub. Once one is out, you then do the same on the other bearing but it's easier because you have more room, having removed the bearing on the side from which you're tapping.
First remove the seal. Then there is a C-clip that holds the bearing in place, you need to remove it before hammering away on the bearing. It is a strong bloody thing. I used my long nose C-clip pliers and it snapped the nub off one that goes into the C-clip hole. Since the inner sleeve is not stationary, it lets the inner guide / sleeve easily move to the side to let you have access to the bearing to dive it out. Once you get that bearing out, you can remove the center sleeve. THEN you can see the notches that let you get on the race of the left side bearing. There is also a seal on that side to be removed first. Then get a strong screwdriver, and use some force to drive that one out. Its easier than the steering stem race, but not a lot easier.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Originally posted by Eveready1100 View PostJust donated my last spare bearings to keep a couple of local XSives on the road, so I'm going to have to restock my spares cabinet again. Can I have another 3 please, James?Last edited by James England; 02-07-2014, 03:39 PM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by DGXSER View PostHaving just completed this process on my current project bike, let me add a few additional steps. You will want to start with removing the bearing and seal on the right or brake rotor side.
First remove the seal. Then there is a C-clip that holds the bearing in place, you need to remove it before hammering away on the bearing. It is a strong bloody thing. I used my long nose C-clip pliers and it snapped the nub off one that goes into the C-clip hole. Since the inner sleeve is not stationary, it lets the inner guide / sleeve easily move to the side to let you have access to the bearing to dive it out. Once you get that bearing out, you can remove the center sleeve. THEN you can see the notches that let you get on the race of the left side bearing. There is also a seal on that side to be removed first. Then get a strong screwdriver, and use some force to drive that one out. Its easier than the steering stem race, but not a lot easier.Last edited by James England; 02-08-2014, 01:11 AM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by James England View Poststrange, but I don't recall a C clip at all, last time I did mine.. Unless my memory fails me, both bearings were a press-fit without clips. Does it vary between wheel types, I wonder? Or it could be my grey cells...not sure
US Models
11E - none
11F - 99009-52500-00
11SF -93420-52014-00 (The Special "Special" )
11G - 99009-52500-00
11LG - 99009-52500-00
11SG - 99009-52500-00
11H - 99009-52500-00
11LH - 99009-52500-00
11SH - 99009-52500-00
11XJ - 99009-52500-001980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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