And so it begins ... Another bike building project

[Pat Kelly]

Those look really good! You're not actually going to, you know, like, put them on a motorcycle and actually ride it, like, outside and everything, are you?!

I ran into this quandry when I looked into having my bike painted. One custom shop gave a quote that was quite high but his work looked worth the money. The downside is the bike would look too nice to ride.

[79XS11F]

Those look really good! You're not actually going to, you know, like, put them on a motorcycle and actually ride it, like, outside and everything, are you?!

No, I'm not going to put them on the bike. Not until I have rubbed and buffed them out to a higher more consistent shine and pin stripped them. Then they go on this un-insurable "custom" bike LOL LOL
Rob

[79XS11F]

I ran into this quandry when I looked into having my bike painted. One custom shop gave a quote that was quite high but his work looked worth the money. The downside is the bike would look too nice to ride.

This bike is meant to be for day in day out use and that remains the plan. It will start neat as a pin but will soon show the usual signs of use. I will not be a fussy about this one as I am with the restored version.
Rob

[3Phase]

I saw your insurance thread -- that's ludicrous. I hope you can find another agent/company that doesn't see Twoonie signs when you try to insure the bike!

[79XS11F]

The paint was plenty dry enough to handle and look at much more closely today and I do have some issues to deal with. This paint goes on so shiny that these issues are hard to see when the paint is first applied. From what I gather from a few painting forums I found, I must color sand this paint between 24 and 48 hours after it is applied or it will be somewhat more difficult to sand. So I know what I will be doing tomorrow. I have one wave as compared to a run and some dry looking spots caused by over spray to sand and rub out. This paint if nothing else, is very shiny and from what I have been reading it can be buffed up to a very high show finish without to much trouble. One lad said that he sands the first coatings and then applies a much more reduced (50/50) final coat for a flawless finish.





Rob

[79XS11F]

I saw your insurance thread -- that's ludicrous. I hope you can find another agent/company that doesn't see Twoonie signs when you try to insure the bike!

I'm still looking but as I was saying I don't want to shot myself in the foot and cancel before I find a better carrier. The quote I got from the outfit that does not insure bikes over 30 years old would have come in at about the same as I am paying now if I plug in a bike insurance rate of about 500.
Rob

[79XS11F]

I sanded out the issues with the first paint job yesterday and painted the parts again this morning. As was the case with the first spraying I could not get the guy to pattern properly. This paint has no body so to speak and is difficult to apply for a beginner painter. I did however get a good wet coat with no runs, waves or dry spots. I do have some DUST, Dam dust in it but what I now have is what I will be using on the bike. Pics as usual...
Rob

[79XS11F]

I think the GOLD badges will have to go ...

I pin stripped and installed the body parts after work and took a few quick photos in what was left of the fast failing evening light. WOW, This bike will be done as soon as I receive and install my fairing which is gloss black and can be pin stripped to match the bike.
Rob

[DGXSER]

Wow Rob, alot of time and effort went into that machine and it sure does show!! Maybe it should have been gold pin striping instead?

Probably easier to paint the emblems silver.

[79XS11F]

I could have got gold stripping but I wanted the stripping to match the bikes overall appearance. The stripping looks white in the photos but it is actually bullet silver. I'm not sure what I will do about badges but they do in my opinion need to be silver.
Rob

[crazy steve]

I could have got gold stripping but I wanted the stripping to match the bikes overall appearance. The stripping looks white in the photos but it is actually bullet silver. I'm not sure what I will do about badges but they do in my opinion need to be silver.
Rob

Where did you get the striping? And can it be clear-coated over?

That's exactly what I'm looking for...

[79XS11F]

I got the pin striping at the auto paint and body shop supplier. They sell lots of colors and can order just about anything. This is OEM replacement stripping so I would guess that you could clear coat over it but you would be best to ask the seller of the product. This product is called pro-strip. It comes in 150 foot rolls at about 25 bucks.
Rob

[jetmechmarty]

Do a GOOGLE search for "plastic chroming". There are a lot of hits including do it yourself.

[crazy steve]

...I'm not sure what I will do about badges but they do in my opinion need to be silver.
Rob

Thanks for the tip on the striping. As to badges, skip the 'plastic chrome' (which is nearly always vacuum metalizing and won't hold up to weather) and try these guys...http://www.badgereplicas.com.au/badges.htm

These are cast metal, and they plate them to either chrome or gold. Chrome XS would be special order, but it's doable...

[Ken Talbot]

Of course, if you change out the tank and sidecover badges, you're going to have to change out the decal on the rear of the seat too! Looking good..

BTW - refresh me on what you did to your calipers - glass beaded and clearcoated?