Bike just wont start!

[edavi394]

awesome thx

[edavi394]

one more thing do I keep the stock model plugs or do I need a differnt plug since I will be using a hotter coil?

[Axel]

stock IMHO

I would say stock . I use iridiums and like them a lot but stick to the heat ranges listed for your bike . Thing for me is iridiums only come in a resistor plug and I'm trying to reduce resitance . When I get my new coils I will probably toss the caps and go straight to the resistor plugs . In your situation , the stock(BP6ES) will probably work wonderfully .
Make sure you get the cap to match your terminal on your plug . Just a suggestion : If you do opt for Iridiums ( longer life , better starts etc) You could get by with the lower resistance cap (1k ohms) . I have even seen 0k caps listed from England if you must preserve the stock look of having caps . But this would be a weak point IMHO and just another place for corrosion to happen .

Right now ,I have new 5k caps amd Iridium resistor plugs . The spark isnt like yours will be, but for stock coils it is good and the bike runs great . I want new coils for better fuel mileage and my old ones wont last forever.

[skids]

Think about this...caps 3 and 2 have resistance values that differ by 32 times. The two wires are running in parallel (I think) which means that cylinder No 3 gets nearly all of the spark! OK, I know it is more involved when you count air gap resistance and any other resistance involved, but I know that it has some affect.

Originally posted by edavi394
ok i took readng from just my caps I haven't put any kind of cleaner in them yet here is what I got (#1) 9.34 (#2) 7-8 (#3) .234 (is a NGK cap with an angle) (#4) 7.84

[edavi394]

Ok I got my coils and caps and wires in today. I was going to see if I could get them on tonight. Is there anything I should know before I put them on? There is a resister or something on mine I have to take off right? Also on my new coils there is a + and - terminal the grey and orange wires on the bike are the positive and the red with white stripe is negative right? I can test these wires just thought I would ask incase I miss something.

thanks

[Axel]

Red/white to positive

I think its the other way around for the wiring

[Axel]

eliminate ballast resistor

If you have a ballast resistor , I believe you can unplug the unit and re-connect the plugs from the wiring harness together .IIRC

[edavi394]

Hi thx I think I have the ballast resistor on mine it is a 79 special and has not been modded. I dont know what it looks like but I figured I could trace the wires and if it was there they would connect to it I can take voltage readings to find out what ones are possitive I just thought since the red with wite stripe went to both and the other to one went to each then the red and white was ground and the grey and the orange one was hot coming from the pickup coils

[Axel]

ok

Go to this site and clik on parts catalogue and fill out your bike year and type for a fiche of the ignition system . You should see a pic of your ballast .

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Its #50 on the ignition fiche

The orange and grey come from the TCI unit under the seat

[edavi394]

OK thx again i did have the resitor on mine. are you sure the grey and orange wires go to the ground and the red/white goes to the positive? if so I wont even meter them... not sure what they should read if I do meter them :P i guess it would atleast tell me if it was positive or not

maybe she will come to life in the morning

[TopCatGr58]

Edavi,

You have to understand how the high tension coils work. The Red/White wire IS the 12V (+) positive that supplies the power to the coils. The Orange/gray wires are the grounds AND are the trigger wires that are controlled by the TCI. The TCI provides the ground switching effect which energizes the coil creating the magnetic field in the PRIMARY windings which pulls on the Secondary Windings. When the TCI cuts the connection/switch then the magnetic field in the Primary windings collapses, releasing the pull on the Secondary windings, and the Electrons are FREE to move thru the windings and out to the spark plugs for the BIG BANG! SO...use a Grey or Orange Wire to connect the tach sensor wire to.
T.C.

[edavi394]

Ok I got the coils put on and the wires hooked up I bypassed the ballast resistor by unplugging the red/white wires going to it and plugging them together. But I am not getting any spark all to connections are clean and tight. I don't know if it is my fuse box or not. It now needs to be replaced because I was trying to check the fuses and pulled one of the things out. also the bike won’t turn over when I hit the button now, I have to jump a crossed the solenoid. I didn't have to do that last time I hit the button any ideas?

[Axel]

What ?

I'm confused . Does it run now by crossing the solenoid or just crank ?
There is a main fuse under the seat apart from the fuse box . It is rubber mounted .
Not sure about your fuse box - a lot of ppl have replaced them.
They talk of melting behind the fuse box . That makes for a lot of variables I would think .

[edavi394]

sorry no it does not run or even make a spark but it does crank over. I also replaced the kill switch assembly 3 weeks ago.

[Axel]

back up

If you can somehow rig your fuse to work or determine that it is not a factor in coil operation , then, I would start at where you last worked on the bike . The coil installation . Sounds like it is still not wired quite right . Read over TC's post carefully and make sure you followed each instruction .

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...threadid=12452

P.S. What did you do for caps and wires ?