begging new mod, need input

[xschop]

Bolts No problem

I can get all the bolts.the longest stock M/D bolt is 160mm. I can get bolts up to 225mm long. One thing Denny, if you want to go wider than 180, I believe you might have to make you spline extention longer and move your right side frame pivot points out as well. I figure 35mm, maybe 40mm spacer will only require moving the left side frame points out. the stock tire location looks like it could go to the right 35mm without hitting the right side swing-arm. For 50Gary, I wouldn't want to cut anywhere in the RED are, and only in the Blue, because of the bearing circlip....what you guys think?

[50gary]

If you widen the left side of the swingarm for the wider wheel/tire, how are you going to mount the left side shock absorber? Wouldn't you then also have extend the upper shock mounting stud?
Cheers, 50gary

[xschop]

shock mounts

Shock mounts aren't a big problem.Can be moved out easily. I may even do the larger single sided shock absorber on the final drive side like this setup...

[pggg]

I had no probs with shock mounts on mine, the top mount only needed shimming out 12mm with a spacer and bronze bush and I hacksawed off the bottom mount and re-welded it 12mm further to the left, mind you it's different for the shaft type swingarm. That white/orange beast, is that rear rim/tyre actually any wider than the stock XS11 wheel? If it is, the left side pivot point along with the rear framing must have been moved outwards and that middle drive must have been shimmed out also. Looking at that pic, they don't seem to have been moved outwards at all? A bit hard to tell from side on I suppose. Assuming you guys will need to cut your swingarms and weld in an extra length of tube to widen, grafting the rear drive to a suitable rim is gonna be tricky..

[xschop]

spline solution

Whoa!!!! found a way to extend splines up to 60mm safely. Glad I kept the rest of the parts from the donor housing. these splines match the output splines and is a whopping 70mm long (2 3/4"). You could concieveably put a 250 tire on this thing if you extend the middle gear out an extra 60mm! Anyways, I think this is the ticket.....Whatcha think?

[Trikerneil]

Matt's bike has moved on since that photo above.
I took these at the UK Rally.





Aplogies for the size, but I thought you'd appreciate the detail.

[pggg]

You could leave the right hand swingarm and pivot point exactly as it is now, this pic is a 4 1/2 inch rim(inside rim measurement) and 160 width tyre, that's the stock swingarm position, that's an 18mm clearance between tyre sidewall and swingarm, so a 190 will still fit nicely, so you're looking at moving the drive unit 40mm. With a 160 - 170, you'd only need 20mm movement, I've checked bare frames, you could cut out the pivot point centre in a circle, and reweld it on the outer edge - which happens to be 20mm movement also.

[Dennyz]

I have figured that major frame and swing arm work would be required to do it right. I am OK with that. There is no way someone should think of this as a "Bolt on" modification. Even the stock foot peg locations would have to be moved. Mine are already aft, so no problem for me there.

It also depends on what rim is used. I have two I am looking at. The VMax 15" rear will take a 180 and fits right up to the XS F/D, but it is not a radial. I also have a R1 rim, but it is chain drive (major mod required for shaft). Shaft or Chain????

It all hinges on being able to extend the M/D shaft. It is a rather complicated shaft to fabricate, but one of us is bound to come up with something sooner or later. An extended M/D shaft would open up a whole new bread of XSs.

[xschop]

thanks pggg and denny

The only concern I had was the right side pivot point like pggg explained. I have a 130 tire on now and measure 1.5 inches to S/A from tire wall. So an extra 3 inces of tire sidewall could be added without tampering with right side pivot point. So the easy route (only moving left pivot point) would still allow a 180-190 tire safely. The next thought was xs11 wheel hub to outter rim measurement and finding a suitable larger rim accordingly....the shaft extension depends on the spacer block thickness. So Denny, do you have exact 2" thick stock block and do you have the ability to make the recesssed and protruding alignment holes (like the stock middle drive has)? I can get my machinist to line-bore male and female splined ends,just need a quality weld. And no need for weld cleanup afterwards. I would like to know more about this electron-beam welding....50gary may have a good idea there.....chop

[Dennyz]

To mill a 35mm (1.377") spacer with a 10mm (0.393") locating boss, I would start with a 50mm (1.968") block of aluminum.

I am approaching the swingarm pivots differently. I think I can rework the frame to flip the pivots around so that they adjust outward. This moves the driveshaft to the outside of the pivot. I am obviously looking at a custom swingarm. Since I would like to end up with a mono, that is pretty much a given anyway.

Since I have a good feeling some how we will come up with a 35mm longer M/D shaft, I will get started on the spacer. I will need the spacer in place to modify the frame correctly anyway.

I just finished gutting a parts engine I had. It makes a nice mock-up engine that I can lift in and out. With everything removed, the XS motor weighs about 60lbs.

[pggg]

Good luck at hacking at those drive parts, a file and hacksaw won't even touch that hard steel, it's so f*# hard I cut some collars off the bevel gears with an angle grinder, the disc shattered within minutes, got thru eventually the steel was white hot and glowing blue, it's more than just the surface hard too, the machinist I got to grind 3mm off the shaft bitched and moaned that it was wrecking their expensive equipment, they prefer to cut a whole new shaft, and to any shape or size, then harden the steel after.

[Dennyz]

35mm adapter



Well, while this looks exciting it would not work. If it were only this easy. But I did learn some things. They where very easy to cut off with my inexpensive Ryobi abrasive cut-off saw.

[pggg]

Den, maybe a 20mm length collar/adapter could work with a 30mm length of cut-off shaft slid 10mm inside (R/H side), and 10mm of the original shaft also inside (L/H side), as the shaft only sits 25mm inside the MIDDLE DRIVEN GEAR, and sitting the shaft only 20mm inside the MIDDLE DRIVEN GEAR shouldn't be a problem.

[xschop]

yeah

That's the setup I was thinking of originally. Why wouldn't that work? Not long enough? Hey pggg, I have seen quite a few of these m/d shafts and they all look like only 3/4" or 20mm is inserted into middle driven gear. To Denny, If you have have your cnc programmed for a 35mm spacer, then I would definitly be interested in one. Do you think the v-max rim is a GO with this spacer? I really would like to put a 04-06 R1 rim on there but the spacer would have to be really thick....chop

[Dennyz]

It looks to me (with my adapter) that there is not enough room to get enough tooth ingagement inside the collar.

It may be possible (as pggg suggested) to cut some of the original shaft and more off another stock shaft and use the collar to reinforce the joint. I would bore and pin both spline section (for alignment), weld them together below the splines, then slide the collar over the joint and tack the collar so it could not move.

Ending up with a straight shaft could still be a problem and it would take two shafts and a drive gear (collar).

At this point there is no CNC'ing going on with this. I simple cut and stuck together the two pieces.