So ...need a bit of direction-was carbs, not coil pick up

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Originally posted by Larrym
    Food FoAr Thought? (◔_◔)

    Iffin I din't have the skill set, tools, and where-with-all to tear down and rebuild my own carbs?? (⊙_◎)

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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12675594949...iew_item&gQT=2


    I'm SERIOUS... I'd "add-to-cart" and try to take advantage of the fact that someone ELSE done wut I wasn't set up to do. ミ(●﹏☉)ミ

    Comes out to only $100 a carb but according to the description, it's the closest to "Plug-n-Play" as practical. (◠﹏◠)

    (Disclaimer- Nope. Don't actually know the seller or done bidness wit'em either. A Toatally "unknown". )
    Well, you'd have to hope they were actually RIGHT, too. Too many times I've found out what was advertised wasn't what was advertised...but YEAH, It's AN OPTION! Quite reasonably priced, for sure. TY!

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Originally posted by DiverRay
    With the "new" gas, you may want to go back to 110 jets. IF I could travel, I'd love to come down and help. I have an Aunt in Sun City, and first cousin in Scottsdale. My wife can't leave the room, so I'm stuck at home for however long.... Look up "Rusty Dog garage", as Bart is really good on cars, and does understand engines better than most people.
    "IF I could travel, I'd love to come down and help." Very kind -the thought! Hope your Mrs. gets better!

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  • Larrym
    replied
    Food FoAr Thought? (◔_◔)

    Iffin I din't have the skill set, tools, and where-with-all to tear down and rebuild my own carbs?? (⊙_◎)

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	883537

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12675594949...iew_item&gQT=2


    I'm SERIOUS... I'd "add-to-cart" and try to take advantage of the fact that someone ELSE done wut I wasn't set up to do. ミ(●﹏☉)ミ

    Comes out to only $100 a carb but according to the description, it's the closest to "Plug-n-Play" as practical. (◠﹏◠)

    (Disclaimer- Nope. Don't actually know the seller or done bidness wit'em either. A Toatally "unknown". )

    Leave a comment:


  • DiverRay
    replied
    With the "new" gas, you may want to go back to 110 jets. IF I could travel, I'd love to come down and help. I have an Aunt in Sun City, and first cousin in Scottsdale. My wife can't leave the room, so I'm stuck at home for however long.... Look up "Rusty Dog garage", as Bart is really good on cars, and does understand engines better than most people.
    Last edited by DiverRay; 03-01-2025, 09:02 PM.

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Btw Cajun-" how and when changing jets to larger sizes should be done". I believe they were 110s and I put in 105s. Many years ago... so can't vouch to the accuracy of my recollection. I just remember going 5 smaller.
    I think. This was done because of what an AUTO mechanic not MC mechanic thought would help. It did but perhaps there were reasons the plugs looked the way they did because the carbs needed work. Hell if I know. I only know that they ( the plugs ) looked good/right after changing the jets.

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Originally posted by oldyam80sg
    Invest in an auxiliary fuel tank so you don't have to connect to the fuel tank. Way simpler to use.
    Considering I have no knowledge on/of an aux tank and I've removed and replaced the stock tank MANY times I'll have to stick with what I know. It's probably more of a pain but how often will I need an aux tank except for my ONE MC?
    It just becomes something that gets stored. I'm no packrat or hoarder.
    I'm still trying to figure ( in my head ) out the inverted fuel test that Larry suggested. I'm waiting on the gaskets. Hopefully I'll have a better idea by the time they get here. I mean the smart thing would be to rebuild them entirely and sync 'em. Yet, as I've said, I have no idea how to do it PROPERLY so am just trying to fix the leak. If there were a good bike mech nearby I'd let 'em have it rather than jumping in meself but no such luck. I'm glad there are a bunch of guys here that KNOW these bikes in and out. If this was a 90's 300e or XJ6 issue I'd know what I'd need to do and how to do it. It ain't and I'm shooting in the dark-without NV or thermal.
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  • oldyam80sg
    replied
    Invest in an auxiliary fuel tank so you don't have to connect to the fuel tank. Way simpler to use.

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  • Larrym
    replied
    Originally posted by JonnyO
    Wouldn't one way/simple be to replace the gaskets, reinstall carbs and route fuel lines back on and see if it still leaks before tearing into the o-rings/seat/needle job?
    Mebbe an even simpler mOaR reliable way? (◕‿◕

    https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...ees#post303550


    Translation- Just remove screws/float bowls from all 4 (four) carbs whiles they's upside down, connect a fuel source (OR just carefully use something small enuf to fill the already connected lines to the fuel Tees...), then "BlIP" the floats to get the air outta the lines, and then WATCH. ٩(^◡^)۶

    (It's called an inverted bench test and comes from one of the greatrest members/contributors XS11.com E-V-E-R. )

    FoAr a final clarification? (O_o)

    https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...564#post303564


    Have at it! (^_^)

    NOTE- The screws most definitely are NOT PHILLIPS!!!! They are J-I-S. "Japanese Indistrial Standard". Iffin you's waitin' fOaR gaskets then you still gots time to find/buy yurself a set of JIS screwdrivers and get off on the right feets. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡° )
    Last edited by Larrym; 02-28-2025, 04:24 PM.

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  • cajun31
    replied
    Originally posted by JonnyO
    Say Cajun? Is there a schematic of the XS Special Carb anywhere so that I can get an idea of what the hell I am trying to get to-the seal and polishing the seat/needle? They are off the bike now. I haven't opened 'em up yet. Witing for the gaskets. From what I've read/seen the carbs/bike can be run without the airbox being reattached? Wouldn't one way/simple be to replace the gaskets, reinstall carbs and route fuel lines back on and see if it still leaks before tearing into the o-rings/seat/needle job?
    Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 OEM Parts Diagram for CABURETOR | Partzilla.com. You need to proceed cautiously. Everyone has made suggestions as we always do and you need to filter through everything and decide what needs to be done. Gaskets are just one suggestion. By the way that picture you show in your follow up post on the float bowl. That is not bad at all. When you put the float bowl back on with a good gasket it will seal. If the carbs have never been disassembled, you need to be very careful when you go to remove the float pins. The floats have to be removed to get to the needle valves and seats. There are several good tips in the maintenance section discussing those pins. You don't want to break a post. If you do you have much bigger problems. With the carbs off the bike you need to get them dis-assembled so that you can inspect everything. Should have done that to begin with but we are where we are now. Changing jets on a guess is not a good approach unless something else has changed. There is a maintenance tip that does a good job of showing you how and when changing jets to larger sizes should be done. Again it is a suggestion from years of experience and you have to be the judge as you are there and we are not. What you need to verify is what you have and share that with us in pictures and then we can pinpoint things for you and resolve your issue rather then bombarding you with guesses as to what is going on.

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    The one side seems a little buggered up-where the float bowl sits. Don't know how/when that happened. When I got the bike it seemed like it was too rich to me so I changed the main jets. Plugs didn't get all black after that and to me anyway it ran great. That was in '19. Maybe 2K ago. That was also when I worked at a shop and there was a competent mechanic to help me when I couldn't figure sheet out-like how to route the fuel lines. sheesh
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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Say Cajun? Is there a schematic of the XS Special Carb anywhere so that I can get an idea of what the hell I am trying to get to-the seal and polishing the seat/needle? They are off the bike now. I haven't opened 'em up yet. Witing for the gaskets. From what I've read/seen the carbs/bike can be run without the airbox being reattached? Wouldn't one way/simple be to replace the gaskets, reinstall carbs and route fuel lines back on and see if it still leaks before tearing into the o-rings/seat/needle job?

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  • cajun31
    replied
    Originally posted by JonnyO
    Click image for larger version  Name:	aacarbdiag.JPG Views:	0 Size:	135.8 KB ID:	883476 So the seats (?) ( o-rings ) I ordered are on the way. Can anyone give me the part number listed in the diagram for the seat and the needle jet that I'll be replacing and the area where to polish?
    Also I've ordered 4 bowl gaskets. Will it be obvious if a gasket is creating a problem with the overflow issue I was having? Should I simply replace the gaskets, reassemble and see if it leaks again?
    Yes, I'm unclear on the concepts.
    They say the only wrong question is the one not asked but I still feel like an idiot for having to ask what is obvious to most of you.
    Jonny, if you have the carb assembly off the bike you can install the float bowl gaskets and get everything tightened up and simply slowly turn the carbs upside down and back and listen to the floats moving up and down. You can put them close to your ear and listen to each carb and literally you will hear the float moving in each one. Most of the needle jets and seats sold on Ebay Yamaha Xs1100 Float Needle Jet Seat Assembly for sale | eBay, Partzilla, Mike's XS, Old Bike Barn etc... will work. As far as polishing you just need to make sure you don't have any build up or grooves preventing the smooth movement of the needle in the seat. The float has to be able to rise and fall according to the fuel level only. Gaskets protruding and catching the float or crud stopping the needle is not good. I had a college professor that told us on the first day of class that the only stupid question is the one you have that you don't ask. The diagram you have above is not your bike. Those carbs are from a standard. you own a special. The floats in yours are plastic and your needle valve seats have the o-ring around the base seals the seat. The diagram above has a washer and the seats actually screw into the carbs to seal them. The needle valve on the early standards also did not have the rubber base on them. It was simply metal to metal. I say all of this so that you don't order the wrong parts.
    Last edited by cajun31; 02-27-2025, 01:52 PM.

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	aacarbdiag.JPG
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ID:	883476 So the seats (?) ( o-rings ) I ordered are on the way. Can anyone give me the part number listed in the diagram for the seat and the needle jet that I'll be replacing and the area where to polish?
    Also I've ordered 4 bowl gaskets. Will it be obvious if a gasket is creating a problem with the overflow issue I was having? Should I simply replace the gaskets, reassemble and see if it leaks again?
    Yes, I'm unclear on the concepts.
    They say the only wrong question is the one not asked but I still feel like an idiot for having to ask what is obvious to most of you.
    Attached Files

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  • JonnyO
    replied
    I can attest to this as being the truth. Whoda thunk to read the instructions!?
    Little monsters, indeed!
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  • DEEBS11
    replied
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