Headlight help

[Snareguy]

bikerphil one lead on the connector plug from left controls and other lead to the control solder internals or the wire to the lights?

[bikerphil]

Well, the power enters the switch via the brn/wht wire and exits to the bulbs via the brown wire to the left signals and via the dark green to the right signals. That is why I suggested to check the continuity (not the voltage) of the switch in it's left and right positions. There may be two different harness plugs going to the switch, so try to find those 3 wires and check their continuity. Just check wires going only to the switch. (solder control terminals)

Be aware there are 2 dark green wires, one for the right signals and one for the headlight. One of these will be near a yellow wire, this is not the one you want to test.

[Snareguy]

bikerphil found the culprit.

[bikerphil]

Can't tell from your picture, did you find broken solder connection in there? Those switches can usually be repaired unless you have a replacement nearby.

[Snareguy]

bikerphil tge solder connections for the brwn/white, dark green, and brown were all just floating off. I soldered it back to the best of my ability. The right signal works kind of. Slow flashing and sometimes no flashing. Cancel works fine. Left position will not work. I mightve knocked the solder off during rebuild it was getting late and i stopped. Now my follow up question is where can i find a replacement flasher relay? Mine would randomly click super fast then sometimes click super slow. No consistency.

[bikerphil]

OK, good you got them working somewhat. I would make sure the battery is fully charged, a weak battery will cause the flasher not to flash. Also if all 4 signals are not hooked up it may not flash. The OEM flasher is load dependant. Most of us here get rid of the inefficient self cancelling flasher and go with a 2 prong electronic flasher, available at any auto parts store. With this type, you will have to turn your signals off yourself while riding, but will flash under any load applied.

[Snareguy]

bikerphil hey! Long time no update haha sorry been busy with work and going to the gym. Was getting frustrated with the build. From my previous talk with you i took your advice. Charged battery. R signal worked then out of nowhere L signal worked. Its perfect now.

had the bike sitting for a good time. I took off the rear wheel and final drive? (The rear hub). Change the rear tire to some 130/90-16 white walls shinko Bias ply for 60$. Front tire still from PO.

scratched off old paint from rear wheel and final drive. Repainted with epoxy gloss black and balanced wheel. My final drive was leaking during the process might need to change fluids smelled bad.

during the removal process of the rear tire i took off the left rear shock but the mounting point in the rear hub would not come out fully. Not sure what to think about that.

Sat in the process maybe 3-4 weeks because of time restrictions and other responsibilities.

would not start anymore. Me being stupid and adventurous decided to tackled on rebuilding the carbs. Got a rebuild kit on amazon. My new problem is during the pilot screw bench tuning i went in too far and broke the tip off. Now its stuck. Bike starts but i feel the bike struggle to stay idling. Also i hear backfiring now. Checked compression through the carbs with my hand and felt #2 with weak to no compression at time and it leaks gas from what i suspect is the pilot air jet. Any help?

[bikerphil]

i took off the left rear shock but the mounting point in the rear hub would not come out fully. Not sure what to think about that

I would just leave that stud alone unless it is broken. I've tried to take it out before with no luck. Definitely change the fluid and grease the driveshaft splines before reassembling. The top fitting is a vent and probably where the oil leaked out when removing.

during the pilot screw bench tuning i went in too far and broke the tip off

Well, you're gonna have to get it out one way or another or the bike will never run right. Try some of the methods listed in the tech tips below.

https://xs11.club/forum/repairs/carb...en-tip-removal

https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...ew-removal-tip

[Snareguy]

bikerphil Hi Phil wondering if you can help me out with this one.

replacing the R switch stop/start/kill

my bike has a 4-pin connector from switch to harness. All the wiring diagrams I see online has 5-pin connector from R switch to harness.

the new switch control has a 4 pin connector + 1 male + female in total 6 wires. Im planning on changing the connector style to a deutch waterproof pin connector but im not sure where all the wires should go.

[bikerphil]

Is the new switch you are going to be using a Yamaha switch or something else? Post a few pics of the old and new switch if you could.

For the 4 wire switch:

Black is ground
Blu/wht goes to the starter solenoid
2 red/wht wires complete the loop for the kill switch

[Snareguy]

bikerphil the switch is aftermarket from cognitomoto.

oh god phil youre a legend. I couldn’t figure out why diagrams had 5 wires but my bike has 4.

[Snareguy]

bikerphil From the website this is the only wiring diagram they provided for the aftermarket switch.

• Wiring Color Chart
  • Blue to battery or key ignition
  • Yellow / red connect to with blue bullet connector
    • The blue wire is hot and by connecting it to the yellow/red wire you are providing power to the run, power on and start buttons. You can also just run the yellow to keyed ignition. The 2 blue wires are connected in the switch harness.

• • Pink hot side feeding coils
  • Red to reg/rec
  • Black to starter solenoid

[bikerphil]

Ok, first thing is the new switch won't require any power from the key or voltage regulator to operate the starter button and the on/off (kill) circuit. The way the starter button works is it grounds the blu/wht wire in the harness, leading to the solenoid to crank the engine. What you need to do is while pushing in the starter button, check for continuity between possibly the black wire and an unpainted area of the switch housing. If this works, great. If not, it may be a different color wire and the switch housing or maybe 2 separate wires. Anyway, when the starter button is pushed, it needs to complete ground to the blu/wht wire. The old switch uses the handlebar as ground going thru the switch housing and completes the circuit when the button is pressed. Let me know what you find.

As for the kill switch, put the switch in the run position and check for continuity between any 2 combination of the wires. When you find that, turn the switch to the off position and see if it breaks continuity. If it does, these 2 wires would go to the 2 red/wht wires (order doesn't matter) in the harness. These wires run to the TCI and when the loop is complete, the bike will have ignition, when the loop is broken, no ignition.

[Snareguy]

bikerphil i think i understand what youre saying. But not fully. All i can understand is

1. Check for which two wires have continuity when starter button is pressed.

—— i tried this last night but i did not try it with the housing on the bars. Which may be why the ground did not complete the loop. But to my knowledge i thought the black wire from the harness is ground? But nonetheless ill strap the housing on and try it.

2. As for the kill switch circuit up top. I opened the housing and there were only two colors. I matched those two colors up with the 2 red/white in the harness.

3. Im still confused where these blue wires go……

[bikerphil]

There will be some unused wires that may be needed for different bikes, you won't need them. The black wire may be ground which would attach to the blu/wht providing it gets it's ground thru the handlebars. If you have painted handlebars you will need to remove some of the paint under the housing for it to mank contact.
Be aware that the colors of the wires on your new switch may not necessarily be the same as the ones in the bike's harness.
The blue wires are probably for that accessory switch in the center.