bikerphil Hi Phil. Just got some time to test out the wires. Am i supposed to be getting voltage from the wire harness? My instincts tell me i should be getting some voltage from the 4 pins from the harness. But i am not.
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No, you don't need to test for voltage in the bike's harness, the blu/wht needs to receive a ground from your new switch starter button to crank the starter and the 2 red/wht need to be bridged via your new kill switch to obtain ignition from the TCI, that's it.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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careful with the PO on the switch. The Previous owner might show up !79 1100 SF Carmine Red stock
85 Honda v65 Magna
70 Yamaha HS1 90cc twin Californian Orange
02 Road King (retirement gift)
First bike-s 2-1967 Yamaha YM2C Big Bear Scramblers
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vedgar HAHA lets hope not. He didnt put a lot of love into the bike.
bikerphil Hi phil! I just figured out the wiring and got the starter to crank w/o blowing fuses. But it only works when I have the blue connector plugged in to a power source from a random wire in the headlight. Im guessing i need to plug the blue wire into a power source. do you know which wire from the 4 pin harness can supply the most power to supply the starter motor? thank you!
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Originally posted by Snareguy View Postvedgar HAHA lets hope not. He didnt put a lot of love into the bike.
bikerphil Hi phil! I just figured out the wiring and got the starter to crank w/o blowing fuses. But it only works when I have the blue connector plugged in to a power source from a random wire in the headlight. Im guessing i need to plug the blue wire into a power source. do you know which wire from the 4 pin harness can supply the most power to supply the starter motor? thank you!Last edited by bikerphil; 02-05-2022, 08:08 AM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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bikerphil youre right. Kill switch works but backwards. Run mean no loop. Off = starter and button work. I found some information from a different source. Do you mind translating it if you can?
So, I bought a set (Right and Left) EMGO Universal Handlebar Switches from the great folks at Cognito Moto for a project. I was not able to find any kind of wiring diagram for them. So, out of frustration I sat down and figured it out on my own and figured I'd share my findings. Hopefully, it will be useful to someone.
Here are the switches I'm referring to:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/e...ar-switch-left
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/e...r-switch-right
RIGHT SWITCH
Red Wire - Energized By Keyed Ignition Switch. Controls power switch (Off, PO, ON).
Blue Wire w/bullet connector - Energized by Keyed Ignition Switch. Pig tailed to Red Wire. Connects to Blue Wire w/socket connector supplies power for starter.
Blue Wire w/socket connector - Energized by Blue Wire w/bullet connector supplies power for starter.
Black Wire - Energizes by Starter Button via the Blue Wire w/socket connector. Connects to starter relay.
Tan Wire - Energized by the Off, PO, On switch. Controls the Off, Run, Off switch. Energizes the Yellow/Red Wire.
Yellow/Red Wire - Energized by the Off, Run, Off, Run switch.
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Well. like I said before, our bikes use a ground to activate the starter solenoid, there is no positive current going there like the switch was designed to do. Some wires are not needed and no positive current needs to feed the switch for operation on our bikes other than the current looping to and from the TCI. I could probably figure it out with switch in hand, very difficult this way.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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bikerphil Cognito moto sent me a second set of the controls since the first one had a faulty push button. I don’t think this control sends a negative anywhere but i somehow got it to work.
https://youtu.be/kLOZ9sLJ9hg
Any tips on how to make this work even better? Haha. Thanks!
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Well, you could make the starter button supply ground to the solenoid by taking one of it's wires and attach it to the switch chassis or the metal handlebar and the other one to the blu wht wire in the bike harness. You would have to take the switch apart and see which wires these actually are. Unhook all the other wires going to the switch from the bike first. Also jump together the two red wht wires in the bike harness, bypassing the kill switch.
Probably the only way to make the switch work properly is to rewire it internally.Last edited by bikerphil; 02-17-2022, 07:27 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/p...0/-screw-pilot
The cheap ones should work, maybe they just can't be tightened down much. Maybe the threads were causing some binding giving poor feel to know when they were "lightly seated".
I would suggest for next time to finger tighten without the spring to lightly seat, then count the turns out so it is known when they actually seat with the spring installed.Last edited by bikerphil; 03-09-2022, 02:03 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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A weak battery will cause all sorts of problems. Give the battery a good charge. Check all ground connections making sure they are clean and tight. As for the engine dying when applying throttle, probably not getting enough fuel. Will it take throttle with the enricher (choke) on? You did remove the broken mixture screw tips from the carb bodies? Is there enough fuel in the tank? Try putting the fuel selector on reserve.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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bikerphil Give it full juice before every attempt. Grounds are fine as far as i know. Have not tried to throttle while on choke since it idles 3-4k on choke for some reason. Removed the broken tips and i can see the light at the end of the tunnel with a flash light. tank is off for fresh paint and single outlet petcocks. Currently using a makeshift aux tank. I will try to run it on choke and add throttle good idea. Thank you!
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