XS1100 Standard for $1.00

[Courtney]

1: I removed the timing cover
2: I turned the engine clockwise with a 6 mm hex key until the "C" lined up with the pointer.
3: I removed the two 5mm hex bolts from the original cam chain tensioner.

I'm surprised no one else spotted this? You are doing a great job on your engine, and I really like the frame, but next time you are turning the timing plate, use a 19mm wrench on the square flats, and not the 6mm allen key. They have been known to snap off which would not be fun. BTW, killer price on that Raptor adjuster!

[TheRev]

Great tip. That would have been bad it if snapped off. I learn something new everyday on the forum. Thanks

[TheRev]

My notes said I paid 40 dollars. Do you need one?

[TheRev]

It's been a long while since I posted anything on this thread. However. I have been busy working on the bike. It's -24 degrees here in Wisconsin so my garage is quite cold but here are a few pics of my project.



Check out the smoked lenses on the turn signals. It matches the over all look of the bike.

[TheRev]

Here is another pic. The previous owner had installed a vetter fairing which I quickly took off. What was left was these bars that were welded on the frame that held the faring on. I improvised and used those bars to install some awesome LED running lights. Don't worry they are aimed low so they don't blind the oncoming cars.

[TheRev]

I also cut the rear fender because I don't like how low it sits. That gave me an opportunity to install a LED rear tail light. I chose a cat eye light. I think it will look sharp when all is completed. I also smoked the rear turn signal lenses to match. I tested the turn signals and they are plenty bright. My goal is to use all LED lights. I am currently working on the LED Flasher Mod. You can also see that I make the wheels silver. I actually used Plasti Dip for the wheels. A bunch of people are using these on car rims so I thought I would try it. The cool thing is I can literately pull it off if I want to go back to the stock rim.

[TheRev]

This mod was the most difficult so far. I wanted to upgrade my brakes so I picked up some R6 calipers, build an adaptor, machined some hub spacers, installed some 320mm rotors and installed some stainless lines. I am very happy with the way everything turned out. I also installed Gold Valve Emulator in the forks and added a Tkat fork brace so the frond end should be solid.

[TheRev]

Here is another pic of the rear wheel. I was fortunate enough to have the OEM exhaust. I used CeraKote High Temp Ceramic Coating on the exhaust and on the entire engine. The product is super easy to use and incredibly durable. It is an air cure system that cures in five days to a super durable finish. I prefer it to powder coating because I can apply it myself and it goes on thin. I have used it on my shot guns and they hold up well, trust me my gun takes a lot of abuse.



Here is a pic of the engine. It's not the greatest pic because it is very dusty. I have been doing some grinding and the dust gets everywhere. I will clean everything up in the spring and take better pics.

[TheRev]

I installed some Dyna Coils. I believe my OEM Coils were fine but while the bike was apart I wanted to fix, upgrade or solve any potential problems. I just used some L brackets to mount the new coils.

[TheRev]

I forgot to post a pic of my fuse box upgrade. It was a straight forward upgrade. I really appreciate all the help this forum provides.

[TheRev]

For the stainless brake lines I choose to use two lines instead of the OEM three line. So I had to use a double banjo at the master cylinder. I also choose to use some sport bike bars for better look and handling.





Some of you may be wondering what the digital dash is. I purchased a Danmoto 180 digital dash. Everything works as intended except the tach. I still have to work out a couple of bugs with that. The speedo is electronic to I no longer use a cable. I purchased a machined spacer for the wheel hub that takes the place of the old speedo drive.



I made some simple brackets out of some flat stock. I mounted the brackets to the OEM Dash Mounts on the triple tree. Once I had the bends correct I had them powder coated to match everything else.

[DGXSER]

Very nice!!! Your doing some great work on that old bike.

I am interested in that coating for the exhaust. I have an original exhaust on my project bike but it has been welded back together in a few spots, so chrome is not in its future, that looks like a nice durable alternative.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Some effort to absorb all you have done. .Outstanding. I have 1 question above many . How much of the Cerakote would you suggest to do an entire exhaust?

[TheRev]

Very nice!!! Your doing some great work on that old bike.

I am interested in that coating for the exhaust. I have an original exhaust on my project bike but it has been welded back together in a few spots, so chrome is not in its future, that looks like a nice durable alternative.

The CeraKote is super easy to use. All I did was sandblast the exhaust and engine in my case. Then I use a HVLP gun just like normal painting. The tip of the gun needs to be small, I believe it's .8 mm or something like that. Then I just let it cure for 24 hours. After 5 days the coating is completely cured. It's as simple as that. I didn't want any chrome on the bike so it made good sense to me. When I realized how easy it was to do I started doing it myself. No need to take it to a pro.

[TheRev]

Some effort to absorb all you have done. .Outstanding. I have 1 question above many . How much of the Cerakote would you suggest to do an entire exhaust?

You actually use very little. I bought the smallest amount possible and I still have a bunch left over. A little goes a long way because you apply it so thin.