What did you do to your bike today?

[TomB]

My 5K7 Sport was using heaps of oil, so bad I was riding wondering when my next oil top-up was gonna be more than my next fuel stop!!

I recently fitted new valve guide seals and it seams to have cured ALL oil use, I'm amazed at the transformation!

[alaskey2]

I found my key!!!

[Eveready1100]

I ditched the 60 watt LED bar light and replaced it with these 50w HID's with spiral reflectors. They're awesome!

[IMG][/IMG]

Chunky solid ally bar that they are mounted on is temporary until I fab up a more stylish tubular mount.

[IMG][/IMG]

I did act responsibly and swapped the headlight back over to a +50 Narva halogen unit, but I found on my first night run that when I dipped the lights, it was like turning them all off ( the headlight on low beam was so weak compared to the HID chorus) so I've had to refit the 50w HID back into the headlight as well.

[IMG][/IMG]
Never being one to waste anything, the LED bar light is now doing duty as a reverse light on my ute (switchable, of course)

Also finally got around to replacing my trailer bumper bar, which was smashed by a kangaroo hit last May on the way home from our National rally



That's a 3x2 hardwood timber bar on the ground, now replaced by a nice slimmer bit of cypress which is a lot lighter as well.

[IMG][/IMG]

Now I'm all ready for the next trip out and about.

[TomB]

I know you needed the extra light out your way so understood the light bar but those new lights do look a whole lot better Errol, nice job.

[Eveready1100]

Thanks for the compliment, Tom
That's great news about your valve stem seal fix. Did you take the head off to do it, or did you manage some other magic trick and swap them in situ?

[Orange4]

Good to hear of your success with the valve guide seals. That will be first on my list this winter.

Today I finally tackled the fuse box:



Thanks TopCatGr58! Your fuse blocks are great.

[rdmcguy]

Brakes

I have had a pulsing front brake for a while finally got around to determining it to be a warped left disc...replaced that and problem solved...Also front master cylinder was notchy and ugly replaced it with one from a parts bike(700 maxim) it was a twin disc but the bore was5/8 versus 11/16 ...works well enough to lock the front wheel as needed...

[TomB]

Valve guide seals? I was planning on fitting them with the head on, but had to take the head off for another job anyway.

Either a compressed airline to an old adapted spark plug or the rope trick was going to be done, but I blew a hole in a piston so had to take the head and jugs off to fit a different set.

When the piston went a bit of ring broke off and got trapped between the valve and seat and bent it a little, when relapping the valves it wouldn't clean up all the way round so I ground the 45 degree and back about 10 thou, it lapped in Ok then, and reshimmed, you could hardly see any difference to the valve so no issues with gas flow.

The piston went coz of fuel starvation to No4 cylinder, I did a mod to stop the right side vacuum petcock from knocking all the time (I had the BIG 2H9 tank on). Here is the thread where we talk about the mod, a restrictor (idle jet) inserted into the petcock vacuum pipe .
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42134
I won't be recommending doing the mod if you get on the throttle a bit, it was OK whilst running around Germany at 60-70mph but at 100mph when back home the vacuum is less with the throttle opened up and the fuel supply is cut just when you need it most.

To pull the valve guide seals off I used a new set of long nose pliers, the old set I tried slipped off, the new ones have sharp teeth that bit into the old seal gripping it good enough to pull the seals, an easy job once I figured that one out.

Really glad I did the job now, oil consumption so far is none, done about 1000 miles all ridden hard and fast to prove itself.

[Orange4]

I'm burning a ton of oil, but the bike has gobs of power so I'm going to assume it's the seals as well.

I guess I'll be making another copper head gasket then. Seems just as easy to just remove the head than try to do the seals in situ. I have a '79 that's in the middle of a top end as well. Lots of work cut out for me.

Cheers.

[TomB]

I agree, it was probably easier to take off the head to do the seals, and I lapped in all the valves again for peace of mind, apart from the slightly bent one they were all extremely good with no wear to valve or seats.

Why will you need to make a new copper head gasket? I annealed mine and used it again.

[MaximPhil]

Re Installed the rear wheel having had it off for a new tire to be fitted.
I went to drain the rear oil and.....WATER came out I just cracked open the drain and caught a table spoon or more of clear water. The oil was only slightly discoulored.The drain plug was covered in brown mud. No iron filings visible in the mud or the oil catch can.
Before and After picture of drain plug.




Any idea how that much water got in there?
Phil

[jwhughes3]

Too much riding Phil.

FD heats up. Cools off and sucks in moisture laden water like a desperate hooker. Over time it builds up faster as water-oil allows more heat buildup than oil-oil.

Either that or some crazy Canuck is playing mean tricks on you.

John

[alaskey2]

Went through my carbs as advised here. Need new carb boots, threading for two of the bolts for the diaphragm covers are stripped, AND. I broke an air mixture screw tip off. Ran grounds to battery and I still stall with the headlight on and the turn signals dim the headlight before it stalls too. Pretty good night....

[trbig]

FD heats up. Cools off and sucks in moisture laden water...

John

Since most water is moisture laden.. disregard John. (*He drinks...)

As said, moisture will get in there from the moisture in the air. Lots of short rides, just about the time the final drive warms up, you shut it off and more moisture gets pulled in when it cools. Same with middle drives. A good long ride will heat the drives up to where it gets rid of the moisture out of the vents. If all you do is short jaunts, best to change fluid regularly. Don't use 2-stroke oil.

[MaximPhil]

Since most water is moisture laden.. disregard John. (*He drinks...)

As said, moisture will get in there from the moisture in the air. Lots of short rides, just about the time the final drive warms up, you shut it off and more moisture gets pulled in when it cools. Same with middle drives. A good long ride will heat the drives up to where it gets rid of the moisture out of the vents. If all you do is short jaunts, best to change fluid regularly. Don't use 2-stroke oil.

Hi Tod,
I understood what John was saying. (I must have been drinking too )
I understood the moisture laden air but was surprised how much water had accumulated.
Damn threads of the drain plug are stripping so had to redo the whole job of drain and refill. Plug is now teflon taped and feels snug. Newspaper on the floor will tell the story in the morning.
also if anyone has a suggestion for replacing the filler plug as the centr drive hex is strpped out of it. Oh the joy ofold motorcycles
Phil