What did you do to your bike today?

[Garagamus]

Put all my freshly painted bodywork back on and tried firing it up to see if I got the wiring right. Seems good. Next to hook up the tail/turn lights, mount the seatpan to its final resting spot, see if the upholsterer is done with the seat pad, and wait for a buddy to show up and help me swap over from 30+ yr old brake lines to some sweet braided stainless. The pics don't do it justice yet, (as its overcast and rainy), but the color is actually a deep brown with a ton of orange flake in it. Three coats of paint and 6 of clear, sanded and wetsanded from 800 to 1000, 1500, 2000, and finally 3000 grit before three stage power polishing. Smooth as glass and can tell in the reflection if I have food in my stubble...

[MarkD]

As usual, Gmus, your bike looks great. Well done!

[motoman]

Looks good!..........fork brace, suspension and brakes all intact. Nice work on the tank.

[Garagamus]

Thanks guys. This will officially be its last color change, (four is enough). The brown was what I really wanted, but couldn't find anything dark enough in a metallic until Ford came out with "Kodiak Brown". Our local bodyshop supplier was able to do me up a couple of rattle cans and some truly amazing 2k clearcoat by SprayMax. There is still of course many sleepless nights ahead regarding graphics combos, but it'll do for now as she sits. Yes, other than freshening it up and topping the fluids, I don't intend on playing with the safety and handling aspects of it. The fender may get shortened, but its staying on, as with the brace and original brake set up.

[MaximPhil]

Hi G'mus,
That fender looks to be in good condition. Have a look on XS650 site for some fairly low cost fender options that may suit the style you are looking for and preserve a good fender that is rare.
Phil

[IanDMacDonald]

Pulled the clutch cover to discover the gasket was tore where it was leaking. Took it off and applied some Permatex "The Right Stuff", ran the bike around here and there and parked it. No more leaks, which is a relief. Going to checkbthe other oils tomorrow.

[Rettic]

Fresh Paint too.

Fresh paint, wet sand and looking great! Waiting for the paint to harden before I put the tank badges back on.





Oil change done and brake pad retainers installed. No more clicking brake pads! Next weekend tackling the Tail of the Dragon (again) and then to the Devils Triangle in Knoxville. Can't wait!

[GLoweVA]

quick fix

Since i got Hugo, I've had to look at this eyesore.



I score this on ebay cheap.



Couple of minutes later..... done.

Note: there's a rubber bushing that goes in the muffler bolt hole. Lol.

[motoman]

Since i got Hugo, I've had to look at this eyesore.



I score this on ebay cheap.



Couple of minutes later..... done.

Note: there's a rubber bushing that goes in the muffler bolt hole. Lol.

Good fix!.......you may actually notice a slightly improved corner handling.........that's more than cosmetic and a pillion footrest.

[motoman]

GLoweVA,
I would suggest you have a look at any seen gap between footpeg mount and that pretty replacement frame gusset/peg mount.
From the decades of compression, the motor mount dampener's outside shoulder get compressed, leaving a shim/washer thickness of a gap. Unnoticed, that piece gets pulled inward at the motor mount when tightened........then, snap, as the right side, by design is the weaker one.
Either broke, or stressed being pulled off center, it DOES affect the rear handling of the bike!
Just an FYI worth checking so that pretty replacement mount doesn't end up like what you removed.
This goes for both sides, and usually they shim the same.
Enjoy your upcoming ride, and be safe out there!.

Would be curious as to any gap noticed or not when rear portion is tightened and motor mount bolt left loose.

[GLoweVA]

GLoweVA,
I would suggest you have a look at any seen gap between footpeg mount and that pretty replacement frame gusset/peg mount.
From the decades of compression, the motor mount dampener's outside shoulder get compressed, leaving a shim/washer thickness of a gap. Unnoticed, that piece gets pulled inward at the motor mount when tightened........then, snap, as the right side, by design is the weaker one.
Either broke, or stressed being pulled off center, it DOES affect the rear handling of the bike!
Just an FYI worth checking so that pretty replacement mount doesn't end up like what you removed.
This goes for both sides, and usually they shim the same.
Enjoy your upcoming ride, and be safe out there!.

Would be curious as to any gap noticed or not when rear portion is tightened and motor mount bolt left loose.

There was a slight gap. I thought it might have been because a PO had laid it over previously on the right side.
I'm gonna look at both sides and see if it might be a mount shim issue. Thanks for that thought.

[motoman]

There was a slight gap. I thought it might have been because a PO had laid it over previously on the right side.
I'm gonna look at both sides and see if it might be a mount shim issue. Thanks for that thought.

Looks like ya' located the stress issue.

[MaximPhil]

Kill Switch

I started on Friday night and finished on Sunday evening
I am a bit slow but did manage to put all the pieces of the switch back together. Bike fired up and shuts off in both directions so it functions correctly. Lubed the throttle cable while I was at it.
I will need a test ride to see if that made any difference to the headlight low output which is what prompted this.
Next up is the fuse panel which was done by PO but I want to clean up and install a TC one.
Phil

[TopCatGr58]

Headlight Ear BROKEN!

Well,
I was dredding having to perform this repair! A few weeks ago I took Godzilla out for a ride, and noticed the headlight seemed to be bouncing a bit too much! I inspected closer and found that the right headlight ear had come completely away from the TUBE! Apparently a previous fall some years/decade ago had cracked the welds there, and rust had gotten in and it had finally fractured all the way!

The metal is a bit thin, but I had gotten a PEDAL control for my TIG unit this past Xmas, and so I had a reason to finally get out there and try it out!

This first photo shows the separate pieces, I had already ground down the metal sections and removed the rust, and tried to remove the surface chrome.



This shows how I had drilled several holes in the EAR just like the OEM so that I could then do some button/hole type welds. But because there was so much material that had come off of the tube, I decided to also put a welded seam along the edge.



What's that old welder's phrase, if you're not a good welder, weld ALOT!
BTW, I know it's not as strong, but I used SS rod instead of the regular mild steel filler hoping for less rusting afterwards!?



Had to use my dremel and a curved file to remove a little of the penetration melt on the inside...but I didn't realize there was more room between the ear tube and the fork tube!



And finally it fitted back on the bike, it's a nice hidden area so it looks like it did before it broke!



T.C.

[IanDMacDonald]

Looks good TC!


I checked the sync on the carbs, put the irridium plugs in, swapped out the resistor for 8 gauge solid copper wire, and installed a rear brake modulator.