Der Ruacher at work! (^_^)

[Larrym]

Iffin' yur gonna go this far and Synchronize the carbs on yur XS1100? (O_o)



Then fOaR sure you've made sure all gauges read the same by using Tees to tie them all together to the same source and verify'em. ( •_•)

But iffin' you gots them Tees/Lines you can use'em to do something else just as important as syncing the carbs...



Hook the lines up to the individual carb boots and then connect'em all together so there's only one "input" as shown above. (･‿･)

[Larrym]

I like to kind'a drape them over the sync gauges so's they's outta the way....



And then.....

No air leaks at the intake boots or ANYWHERE 'cept the lower airbox. (◕‿◕)

Which is cuz I sorta forgot to tighten it down fully fOaR the video.... (>_<)

[LoftCol]

Good morning from an overcast and yes you have guessed it a damp UK

Sort of related to this, well nearly ;-)
The current set of carbs that are on the 11, do not have the vacuum advance connection. Instead as a work around I have connected it to the inlet boot number 2, with an adjustable damper. However, I get a flat spot at around 3000 revs, until I get my other set of carbs serviced and fitted, does anyone have any suggestions for a work around?

Thanks

[DiverRay]

Check the advance assembly for a smooth movement. Anything old I usually clean and re-lube, checking for rust spots on the pins and weights, and cleaning them with a bit of crocus cloth. The other problem my be the carbs, as 3K is usually the switch from idle to just main jets. On the XS, the needle design helps with the transition.

[LoftCol]

Thanks Ray for the tip,

[Larrym]

Good morning from an overcast and yes you have guessed it a damp UK

Sort of related to this, well nearly ;-)
The current set of carbs that are on the 11, do not have the vacuum advance connection. Instead as a work around I have connected it to the inlet boot number 2, with an adjustable damper. However, I get a flat spot at around 3000 revs, until I get my other set of carbs serviced and fitted, does anyone have any suggestions for a work around?

Thanks

Iffin' your are using the intake boot #2 and with an adjustable dampener? (O_o)

Then how the dampener is adjusted...how MUCH "damp" is impor'unt. ( •_•)

I gots the OG carbs (BS-34) with the vac advance connected to the port on #2 carb just like it's s'posed to be. ٩(＾◡＾)۶

BUT I kept on hearing the vac advance "chatter" at idle and below 1500 rpms. (｡･_･｡)

Imma thimkin' that ain't so good fOaR those fragile Pickup wires to be yoinking back and forth getting closer and closer to breaking. (•﹏•)

SOOooo....I installed an adjustable air flow valve (yup...same kind you'd use to adjust the air flow in a fish aquarium.) and adjusted it enuf so's at idle the vac advance wasn't boinking around. \(^_^)/

Noise wuz gone. Pickup wires saved. But the bike didn't have that "climb to rpm under throttle and then go into easy/economy mode" as the vac advance did wut it do. (Θ︹Θ)

I'd suggest checking the dampening by removing the engine side cover and seeing iffin' the vac advance is pulsing at idle. (；☉_☉)

If it ain't then there's too much "damp". Adjust so the "chatter" goes away above 1500 rpm and test ride it some mOaR. (＾-＾)

Might have to fuss wit' it some to get it to wurky right but when it do you'll feel it. (ʘ‿ʘ)

Still... might just be that the "current" carbs just ain't optimal... (*′☉.̫☉)

[LoftCol]

I have been using an aquarium fish tank damper, slowly adjusting it until it runs better.
I will try looking at the vacuum advance with the cover off and see if I can spot/hear anything. Thanks for the tip.

For those who are interested, yes it is raining again ;-)