A bit off topic but just wanted to add on to what Ray said about the type of solder you are using. I am the proud owner of a 1960 Telefunken Stereo console that my parents purchased while in Ramstein Germany. I am doing a lot of reading and research on old radio forums in my attempt at getting the radio restored. Like Ray said about the solder, what you are looking for is either a 60/40 or 63/37 ratio of tin to lead mix. Basically lead free solder sucks and should be avoided for electronics. Another thing that came up is that once you make the solder take some 90% isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush and get all the flux residue off of your solder and the rest of the board. You can see a good bit of what I am talking about in the picture posted above. That old flux can also cause oxidation problems on the PCB boards. Just wanted to say that most of the lead free solder being pushed out there has a much higher melting point than those containing lead and is the main reason to not use those. The higher heat is especially critical on these old boards found in old vacuum tube radios.
Pick up coil issue?
Collapse
X
-
Last edited by bikerphil; 01-31-2026, 07:10 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
07 Triumph Tiger 1050
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮Comment
-
Sigh.... (´-ι_-`)
Idaho....Spiral Highway and gentle summer Sun so's the seat don't burn yur backside iffin' ya don't park in the shade.... (*´_ゝ`)
Imma envious... (・-・)
Arizonia...where I'm at? (O_o)
I used them nylon zip ties on my truck (under the hood...) and even to secure the wires to my security camera(s). (O_O)
The security camera wires wuz under the eaves and outta the sun but 6 Months later those farking zip ties just dried out and BROKE under the weight of the wiring. (>_<)
Imma thimkin' twas not the sun but HEAT (caps intended...) wut dried'em out and broke'em AND the ones under the hood of my truck. ( ⊡ _ ⊡ )7
Anybody ever used one of those laser temp gauge thingies on an XS engine after a "spirited" ride? (O_o)
Probl'y a lot hotter under the left side engine cover where's Marty put them ties. (◔_◔)
Unless Imma missing some sorta Yamaha engineered ventilation underneath that cover. ( *∵* )
IMO, them zip ties is gonna BAKE-n-Break and one day let them P/U wires start flopping around.... ( ´・仝・`)
Or at least that's wut Imma thimkin' would happen to me in Arizonia... ໒( •́ ∧ •̀ )७Comment
-
I live in Idaho, the high desert part of the State. 110 to 115 summer temps and 0 to 10 winter temps. Very little rain or snow as a rule. I go about two years on the black ties, but part of that is who made them. HF ties die in months, name brand go for the two years.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!👍 1Comment
-
Before retirement, I worked in security electronics for 20 years. These wire ties are used outside to tie fence alarm sensor wire to fences in New England weather. I first used these in 2003 and they are still holding that wire to the fence. I use these on all my motorcycle projects and have never lost one yet. They are UV proof and double lock.
Comment
-
Google is your friend (sometimez....) (^_^)
" Standard nylon (PA 6/6) zip ties are rated for operating temperatures between -40°F and 185°F (-40°C to 85°C), suitable for most general indoor/outdoor applications. For higher heat, heat-stabilized nylon ties handle up to 250°F (121°C), while stainless steel ties can withstand extreme temperatures exceeding 1,000°F (538°C).
Key Temperature Ratings by Material- Standard Nylon (PA 6/6): -40°F to 185°F (-40°C to 85°C).
- Heat-Stabilized Nylon: Up to 250°F (121°C).
- Tefzel/Halar Ties: Up to 302°F–338°F (150°C–170°C).
- Stainless Steel:
Up to 1,000°F (538°C)+
.
- Installation Temperature: While standard nylon can operate in cold, it should not be installed below -4°F to 14°F (-20°C to -10°C) as they become brittle and may snap.
- Continuous vs. Intermittent: Maximum ratings (e.g., 185°F for nylon) are for continuous exposure; intermittent exposure to higher temperatures may be possible, but constant heat will cause degradation over time.
- UV Exposure: For outdoor, high-temperature sun exposure, black UV-stabilized nylon is recommended, though they retain the same -40°F to 185°F range.
And how hot is it inside that engine cover??? (O_o)
Motorcycle engine temperatures vary significantly based on whether the bike is liquid-cooled or air-cooled, but generally, they operate
between 180°F and 250°F (82°C to 121°C) during normal riding.
Liquid-Cooled Engines
These engines use a radiator and coolant to maintain a more stable temperature, similar to a car.- Operating Range: Typically 180°F to 220°F (82°C to 104°C).
- Stationary/Traffic: In stop-and-go traffic, temperatures often climb to 210°F–225°F, at which point the radiator fan usually kicks in to cool it back down.
- Warning Zone: Temperatures exceeding 230°F (110°C) are often considered approaching the danger zone where warning lights may activate.
Because they rely on moving air for cooling, these engines run significantly hotter, especially at a standstill.- Operating Range: Normal cylinder head temperatures usually range from 275°F to 350°F (135°C to 177°C).
- Extreme Conditions: In heavy traffic or during extreme stress, head temperatures can reach as high as 380°F to 400°F.
- Oil Temperature: The oil in these engines typically stays between 200°F and 250°F, but can exceed 300°F in extreme heat, which may cause the oil to break down faster.
I s'pose them zip nylon zip ties wurky iffin' yur gonna drive to the end of the block and back. (O_O)
FoAr what I do and where I go wit' my XS? (O_o)
Still gonna nope outta nylon zip ties inside the left side engine cover....YMMV. \(^_^)/
Comment
-
Those metal ties don't worry you that they may cut into the wire sheathing. Seems like the back and forth motion would pose a risk. Cinching the wires tightly as Ray mentioned shouldn't be done as that is what causes the wires to break.2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
JimComment

Comment