Petcock Rebuild

[cajun31]

[Supersport396]

I have that diagram and used it but still a tough fit.

[DiverRay]

Note that the T's are closer to the petcock than the octy. Also notice the the petcocks are in back, not the front. DO NOT use any line with braid, internal or external, as it will not work well on our bikes.
One thing you can do, see how #18 T is on the lines. Install #1 T the same way, but point them to the carbs on the other side. Have the left petcock T feed the right carbs, and the right the left side. This should give you a little more room for the lines.

[GNEPIG]

Quick question, why do you need four gauges? The way I've done balancing over the years is that you sync carb #1 with carb #2 then sync #3 with #4. After that you sync the two sides with each other, this only requires two gauges.

Of course in my case being a cheap bastard I use a home made manometer made with two empty juice bottles half full of fork oil.

Cool Guy Points given to LAB3 for knowing what a manometer is and using one... Altho the use for that method was standard for checking your float height/level.

[LAB3]

Cool Guy Points given to LAB3 for knowing what a manometer is and using one... Altho the use for that method was standard for checking your float height/level.

It's metaphysics, the numbers on the gauge mean nothing!

https://youtu.be/zTLkiJUX05A?si=9UkG1e42_uu59gjn

[Supersport396]

Here’s what I have so far.

[DiverRay]

Twist the fuel line going to the carbs so they point/go to the other side of the engine. You want to be able to connect the carbs with NO BENDS if you go from the T to the carb under it. The other way of doing it is run the carb connection from the right T to the left two carbs, under the air intake horns. The T on the carb should swing up and down, so it's pointed to the bottom of the engine. This will keep kinks out of the lines and give you a little room for working on it. The fuel level in the tank will allow you to run well even as it drops. Think using a clear hose to set the float level, same idea.

[Radioguylogs]

That's a clean bike Supersport!

[Supersport396]

Twist the fuel line going to the carbs so they point/go to the other side of the engine. You want to be able to connect the carbs with NO BENDS if you go from the T to the carb under it. The other way of doing it is run the carb connection from the right T to the left two carbs, under the air intake horns. The T on the carb should swing up and down, so it's pointed to the bottom of the engine. This will keep kinks out of the lines and give you a little room for working on it. The fuel level in the tank will allow you to run well even as it drops. Think using a clear hose to set the float level, same idea.

I do have the fuel lines going down between 1&2 and 3&4 and left enough to cross to the opposite side.

[Larrym]

I do have the fuel lines going down between 1&2 and 3&4 and left enough to cross to the opposite side.

Awesome! \(^_^)/

Now? (O_o)

You probly know mOaR and have better technical expertise than most of the surgeons who claim that they can do the heart triple by-pass operation yur insurance sez it'll PAY for....(_Oo)

(The "Octy" ain't fOaR the faint of heart! )

[Supersport396]

Awesome! \(^_^)/

Now? (O_o)

You probly know mOaR and have better technical expertise than most of the surgeons who claim that they can do the heart triple by-pass operation yur insurance sez it'll PAY for....(_Oo)

(The "Octy" ain't fOaR the faint of heart! )

Well thank you!

[cajun31]

I have that diagram and used it but still a tough fit.

It always was a tight fit but if arranged properly works. The main thing is to ensure that you don't have any kinks occurring anywhere. The fuel system is not under pressure, gravity does everything. The Octy, if working correctly, simply stops the flow when the bike is not running. I just stay in the habit of always turning my petcocks off when I turn the bike off. Even if just for a few minutes I reach down and turn them off. My problem is that when I get back on the bike to leave, I don't always remember to turn them back on and get a reminder about 3/4 of a mile down the road when the bike starts missing a bogging.

[Supersport396]

Ok, so I got all back together and tested with a vacuum pump that the octopus was working but initially fuel started dumping out of the airbox (not running) so I shut all off and waited for a dry day to take it out and test. Same thing happened initially with bike running so I closed the petcocks and let some of the gas burn out. I then opened them and no more coming out of the box. rode it for a few miles and all seemed good although it took a while to warm up and run good. What would make fuel come out of the airbox like that? One bonus-my low fuel light works!!!

Also I adjusted all valves and they really weren't far off but enough to adjust. Where possible I went to the wider end of the spec on some where possible since they wear into less space. I do notice a slight ticking on a few of them now so I suppose that's to be expected. I triple checked my work.

Another odd problem: when I turn left or right pushing the bike the front calipers drag pretty hard. I crack the bleeders and problem gone. apply brakes a few times and no problem......weeks later, same thing. Calipers rebuilt and lines replaced and DOT 5. Could that be the orifice/vent plugged in the master I've seen mentioned somewhere before?

Thanks as always!
Brian

[cajun31]

Ok, so I got all back together and tested with a vacuum pump that the octopus was working but initially fuel started dumping out of the airbox (not running) so I shut all off and waited for a dry day to take it out and test. Same thing happened initially with bike running so I closed the petcocks and let some of the gas burn out. I then opened them and no more coming out of the box. rode it for a few miles and all seemed good although it took a while to warm up and run good. What would make fuel come out of the airbox like that? One bonus-my low fuel light works!!!

Also I adjusted all valves and they really weren't far off but enough to adjust. Where possible I went to the wider end of the spec on some where possible since they wear into less space. I do notice a slight ticking on a few of them now so I suppose that's to be expected. I triple checked my work.

Another odd problem: when I turn left or right pushing the bike the front calipers drag pretty hard. I crack the bleeders and problem gone. apply brakes a few times and no problem......weeks later, same thing. Calipers rebuilt and lines replaced and DOT 5. Could that be the orifice/vent plugged in the master I've seen mentioned somewhere before?

Thanks as always!
Brian

If you are still experiencing flooding then your carbs are probably still not adjusted quite right. Meaning the floats not how they are running on the bike. Might want to double check your float heights. The hole that your referring too is the spooge hole in the masters. If you didn't verify that they were clear then the brake calipers don't properly release. Dragging is the result. Brakes not releasing? Clogged Spooge hole? - XS11.club Forums

[DiverRay]

The other thing to check on the carbs is the float bowl gasket. Some of them intrude into the bowl, and can cause the float to hang and gas to flow!
For the front brakes, Verify that the rotors are centered in the calipers and the fork tubes are not binding. For the rotors, you can loosen the pinch bolt and move one or the other lower leg to center the rotor.
Alignment on the forks will involve loosening the bolts on the forks, as well as the fender bolts, and re-tighten from top to bottom, IIRC. There should be a "how to" in the repair forum on this site.
See last few pictures in this thread for centering rotors.https://xs11.club/forum/maintenance/...ange-pictorial