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  • #16
    Deebs11 Foar The Win! \(^_^)/

    I promise to make a video of the next time I gotta hook up/use my DPDT relay to "performance test" the coils/wires/caps/plugs. ( ・_・)ノ

    Crozell? I'm out of this one. (/_\)

    Good luck with your endeavors. ╮(╯_╰)╭
    Last edited by Larrym; 08-24-2024, 01:45 PM.

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    • #17
      Update- swapped the bad coil and swapped some good plug caps—- and hesitation is gone. I’m going to sync the carbs and color tune them again just to dial it in. Thank you for all your help. This forum has been incredible as I’m learning. About ready to move on to the next one!

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      • #18
        Yep, those pesky caps get overlooked far too often!
        1980 XS1100G

        I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

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        • #19
          FoAr Radioguylogs befOaR I ferget? ( •_•)

          If yur gonna give testing the coils/wires/caps/plugs "actively" a second try someday wit' yur power supply? (O_o)

          The red/white wires on the coil primary are the +12vdc side where I hook up the battery and ballast resistor. ๑(◕‿◕)๑

          This is the side where it is just the wires/connections and NOT where I do the make/break wit' the screwdrivers as switches. (⇀‸↼‶)⊃━☆゚.*・。゚

          The "switch" goes between the Orange or Grey wire (depending on which coil yur testing...) and the negative teriminal of the battery/PS. ( ๑‾̀◡‾́)σ"

          Mainly cuz the coils use windings wit' a shared central tap between the primary/secondary windings and it's ON the negative 12vdc side of the circuit. The TCI also makes sparkies by making/breaking the connection to ground instead of removing the +12vdc from the coil input. ໒(⊙ᴗ⊙)७✎▤

          Just makin' sure yur not seeing the Orange or Grey wires as the +12vdc input and the Red/white wires as the negative. Current/electrons flowing in the opposite way than they were intended combined with the ole "Left Hand Rule" fOaR emf fields might make things go wonky. I dunno cuz I've never hooked things up that-a-way to see wut happens. ~( ˘▾˘~)

          STILL.. I suggest using the screwdrivers as a switch instead of a metal toggle/flip cuz we're dealing with 15K volts and 20K volts can jump a full inch, right? (^-^*)ノ

          The screwdrivers I use have noice fat insulating handles just in case...ʅ(°_◞°)ʃ

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          • #20
            If you are looking for high performance new, you can't beat Dyna coils. 3 ohm green for eliminating the ballast resistor. Beware of Chinese imitation coils that do not say DYNA on the side.

            https://www.ebay.com/itm/38069367064...Bk9SR7qBx4WxZA

            Click image for larger version

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            • #21
              https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...-project/page4

              Scroll down to post #60 about coil install.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by DEEBS11 View Post
                If you are looking for high performance new, you can't beat Dyna coils. 3 ohm green for eliminating the ballast resistor.
                Went with a set of used late 80's Honda 750 coils on mine also 3ohm and eliminated the ballast resistor, my warm/hot starts are MUCH easier now! Kinda difficult to measure a ballast resistor while "hot" but my guess is the value changed as heat increased.
                1980 XS1100G

                I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

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                • #23
                  Larrym: I did have a car jumper cable connecting the threads of two spark plugs, so I know that was done right.

                  However, I do believe I might been breaking the positive supply instead of the ground. I have to think about why that was NG, but it must have been what I was doing wrong.

                  Thanks for your thoughts.

                  -Mike
                  _________
                  '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
                  '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
                  '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
                  '79 XS750SF 17k miles
                  '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
                  '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
                  '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

                  Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by crozell View Post
                    Thanks Ray, I’m just confused bc according to the manual I should be getting 15 ohms wire to wire- unless I’m reading it wrong?
                    I see at the end you got it running right but to help clear up misconceptions, there is a difference in resistances from output wire to wire. No, not zero ohms, and no, not 15 ohms. It should be something like 15 THOUSAND ohms. You need to set the multimeter to the correct range to determine high resistances.
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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