There are 2 types of OEM, on the early type, the plastic resivour is held to the body by the 4 screws that hold the cap on. The late type has a metal disk in the bottom with 2 screws holding it down.
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Leaky Front Master Cylinder and Need New Final drive fill bolt
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Originally posted by Ccitis View Post
Cool. I don't have much to lose... if it fails I will get a whole new unit as planned.
AFAIK, it's the same material the actual "rubber" parts (Cups, rings, etc...) in the MC rebuild kits. (Which of course I did just because I had the whole thingy off the bike and on the bench.) (◔_◔)
AND just like one is s'posed to do with all the internal parts in the MC rebuild, I "soaked" the new MC Reservoir O-ring in DOT3 brake fluid to get it pliable and slippery before installing/putting it all back together. (ʘ‿ʘ)
Yur lucky with the Standard Reservoir. It has straight sides and just twists/slides out. (◠﹏◠)
The specials reservoir goes in with a sharp BARB like (45 degree lip) all around the very bottom which made getting the old (weepy) O-ring out a very "Special" project. (⩾﹏⩽)
The old O-ring did NOT survive the process. (_Oo)
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Originally posted by DEEBS11 View PostLAB3, Brake fluid is silicon based (should not corrode a Nitrile O-ring) and since the master cylinder is so far away from the hot calipers, there is not much heat to deal with. However, if you can get Viton, that would be the better material. I think Buna/Nitrile would work fine. I use Nitrile in my KZ1000/750 rear master cylinder cups and they have lasted for many years. I have that part reference if anyone needs it.
2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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Originally posted by Ccitis View Post
Cool. I don't have much to lose... if it fails I will get a whole new unit as planned.1980 XS1100G
I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!
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Originally posted by DEEBS11 View PostThis is from an XS650 but is similar to an XS1100.
Photos of what's hidden until one actually takes things apart. Sure, there's a genuine sense of discovery/surprise when you remove something for the first time to look at what's underneath and go, "WUT!??" (⊙_◎)
In this situation, much better to know-before-you-go. (ʘ‿ʘ)
Also this illustrates exactly why I was so confused by my inter-web searches-
"The O-ring is made from Nitrile Rubber and is OIL Resistant"
STILL feeling like a crash test dummy fOaR choosing EPDM. ¿ⓧ_ⓧﮌ
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Originally posted by Larrym View Post
Really like this post and ones like it. Thx, DEEBS11! (◠﹏◠)
Photos of what's hidden until one actually takes things apart. Sure, there's a genuine sense of discovery/surprise when you remove something for the first time to look at what's underneath and go, "WUT!??" (⊙_◎)
In this situation, much better to know-before-you-go. (ʘ‿ʘ)
Also this illustrates exactly why I was so confused by my inter-web searches-
"The O-ring is made from Nitrile Rubber and is OIL Resistant"
STILL feeling like a crash test dummy fOaR choosing EPDM. ¿ⓧ_ⓧﮌ
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I've had one EPDM in service for 14 years, no problem.
The next EPDM is 9 years with no problem.
There are two younger ones with no problems.
-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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I'm sure EPDM will work. However, I have had a Nitrile O-ring in my KZ rear master cylinder for several years and it has not deteriorated. This is a bike that actually gets ridden under the worst conditions. It's not a coffee table bike.
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Iffin' you haven't yet pulled off the resevoir and got your own "eyes-on" experience? (O_o)
Mebbe wurth watching.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inA5FRDBTQQ
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