oil on the good foot

[DiverRay]

If it is leaking from the crankshaft you may have part of the lip folded over. If the seal was too cocked when you started, that can happen. Try using a 0.005" feeler gauge to slip in between the seal and crank, slowly rotate around the crank looking for any problems. You may need to cut the feeler gauge so it's not over about 1/4" wide.

[speedlimit85]

could be leaking from the crankshaft edge- hope not

[bikerphil]

Hey, whatever it takes, you'll get it right this time. It's OK if it starts off a little crooked, as long as it's straight when it's all the way home, then you should be good.

[speedlimit85]

Alright. So, I did use a 1 1/4 half in dr last time. But hit it hard right away and the top of seal started first- not so straight.

This time, I could tap a piece of 2x4 with a hammer flat against the seal and then use the socket.

[bikerphil]

Well, that sucks having to do it over, oh well.

The seal may have shifted, there is not that much case surface area for the seal to mate to. Obviously the case wasn't designed for this type of non-lipped seal, so there are a few measures you can take to prevent the seal from moving.

Coat the outside edge of the seal with RTV, just not too much. You don't want to block that oil drain hole at 7 o'clock.
Tap the seal in as straight as possible in the beginning and then send it home with a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the seal. I used a 1 1/4" half inch drive. If you don't have a large socket, a PVC pipe adapter fitting would probably do the trick.

After the seal is fully seated, put a thin layer of RTV all the way around the outside front of the seal overlapping onto the case. Careful not to get any on the inside part or on the crankshaft. This will really prevent it from shifting and keep it solid.

It is very important, as you have found out, to let the RTV cure overnight.

I did mine this way about 6 months ago and holding solid and not a drop.

[speedlimit85]

Well, the seal is dripping on my foot again. I'm gonna try and do it again. Might of gone in cockeyed. I could try and hit it in flatter and straighter. I could leave it overnight with sealer on the outer edge instead of riding right away.

I will order 2 if it starts going in a bit off I'll have another.

[bikerphil]

Yep, I would fix that clamp on the #4 intake boot, may be sucking extra air and causing that popping.

[speedlimit85]

Getting instant results from seafoam. Changing spark plugs. Gonna put miles on it now...

[speedlimit85]

Intake boot not quite right. Looking at plugs again left to right.

[bikerphil]

It should actually run better after repairing the exhaust one would think.
Yeah, the bike may not run very smooth with the "choke" on, it really shouldn't be popping though.
Have you run a fuel treatment in the gas lately such as seafoam? May be a good idea, couldn't hurt.

[speedlimit85]

The plugs look good. I would have seen a broken spring on the mechanical advance. The exhaust was welded back together months ago. could that have changed the air flow?

The problem is subtle and not constant, but I should be able to get it running right.

Carbs and pick up wires problems are so similar, it feels like the electrical is usually less constant than the gas or air.

When starting the bike cold with the choke on, there is some popping and not running completely right. Some of that is normal right? But it seems more than usual.

I got no more oil on the good foot and I can take all that apart again now that I know how.

[bikerphil]

Can the vacuum pod or the mechanical advance stick some of the tome causing these symptoms?

Maybe. The only way the mechanical advance can get stuck is if the springs actually broke. The vacuum advance I've never seen get stuck before. You know, ignition and carb problems can have similar symptoms. You may want to start looking into the fuel side of the problem. What does the color of the spark plugs look like? Blackish plugs may tell you what cylinder(s) is having the problem.

[speedlimit85]

I still have a intermittent miss or rumble drop in power at 2-3 rpm. I just tightened the straps on the rubber boots thinking some air was coming out sometimes- no change.

Can the vacuum pod or the mechanical advance stick some of the tome causing these symptoms?

[bikerphil]

This is the bearing right here. You can spray some penetrating oil on this gap in several places around the clock to ensure smooth travel. Wipe the excess away. Nice that you found some NOS P/U coils.

[speedlimit85]

No, the large bearing is right there visible, it is what the vacuum advance plate turns on. You can just spray some lubricant on it around it's outer edges and wipe the excessive away. If it is popping it could be just a vacuum leak, try checking the sync port caps on the 1+4 intake boots for cracks or being loose. Maybe even the hoses on 2+3 supplying vacuum to the fuel petcocks could be cracked.

The large bearing is the mechanical advance or the timing plate?

I replaced the vacuum hoses on 2-3 and the sync port caps on the intake boots.

I also replaced the p/u coils with NOS.

Bike is running better than ever most of the time.

Also turned the idle up to 1 1/4 (1000) rpm... feels like idle screw is all the way opened.

And replaced the float bowl assembly.