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  • Maintenance questions

    1979 xs1100 11,775 miles

    Going to be changing every fluid, filter, plugs, sync carbs, complete brake overhaul, tires (regrease shaft drive) fork oil etc... Bike is in pristine shape but want it perfect mechanically as well...

    1.) When syncing carbs are people removing tank or is there enough room to access screws with tank on?

    2.) easiest/best way to flush old oil (never had a bike with a drain before always had to remove forks!) I would typically dump old oil and fill with ATF and slosh/pump and dump to clean forks out aside from merely draining.

    3.) I have a leak underneath but haven't had time since hauling it home to investigate. Doesn't seem to be from drain plugs So I was thinking maybe chain tensioner area (haven't had time to do anything but a quick look underneath.. If so can a sealant be applied or do I have to remove/replace gasket?

    4.) are the plug wire integrated into the coils (my Road Stars are) and if not where could I get stock looking wires IF not available from Yamaha.

    5.) getting automatic cam chain tensioner vs adjusting stock one. I viewed the procedure for adjusting cam chain tensioner and it doesn't seem to bad. How often does this need to be done usually? I wouldn't mind putting an automatic one from a Vmax on and then setting it once and forget about it either. I don't plan on putting more than 1500 miles a year on this bike honestly and didn't know if it's worth swapping out the stock one to an automatic one.
    Last edited by LugNut; 04-22-2021, 06:15 AM.

  • #2
    1) You'll need a special tool to do this with the tank on and it would still seem too fiddly for me. So, tank off. Modify a lawnmower tank or the like to run while you sync.

    2) I remove the fork tube and rinse with solvent because I choose to fill by height rather than volume. Otherwise, use the drain. You'll get more fluid out by pumping the fork leg up and down. Oil replacement should be done routinely, maybe every third engine oil change. ATF is old school. Today, we have purpose made fork oil.

    3) The most likely culprit is the cam chain tensioner. You'll have to clean and investigate.

    4) Plug wires are integrated into the coils. If the coils work fine you don't have to fix them.

    5) The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to leakage. The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to slip out of adjustment. Decide based upon that.

    DON'T FORGET TO REPACK YOUR SWINGARM BEARINGS! They've probably never been serviced.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #3
      1. There is room if you have a 90 degree screwdriver for carb tuning. If you want an easier and more accurate job, take the tank off and put it at the same level off to the side and rig up some temporary fuel lines.

      2. It is better to remove and disassemble the forks and clean them out properly, you would never believe the crud that accumulates in the bottom which will never come out thru the drain holes.

      3. One of the best modifications you can do is to convert to an automatic adjusting cam chain tensioner, one of a Venture or a V-Max will work. Please read the service manual before attempting to remove the old tensioner. If not done properly, valve train damage can occur.

      4. I would upgrade to Dyna green 3 ohm coils and new wires. The factory wires are not easily replaceable.
      Last edited by bikerphil; 04-22-2021, 07:04 AM.
      2H7 (79)
      3H3

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      Comment


      • #4
        2. It is better to remove and disassemble the forks and clean them out properly, you would never believe the crud that accumulates in the bottom which will never come out thru the drain holes.
        If not done in a long time, this is absolutely true. If done say every third engine oil change, you'll be far less likely to continue having this problem. Dirty fork oil will destroy your bushings.
        Marty (in Mississippi)
        XS1100SG
        XS650SK
        XS650SH
        XS650G
        XS6502F
        XS650E

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
          1) You'll need a special tool to do this with the tank on and it would still seem too fiddly for me. So, tank off. Modify a lawnmower tank or the like to run while you sync.

          2) I remove the fork tube and rinse with solvent because I choose to fill by height rather than volume. Otherwise, use the drain. You'll get more fluid out by pumping the fork leg up and down. Oil replacement should be done routinely, maybe every third engine oil change. ATF is old school. Today, we have purpose made fork oil.

          3) The most likely culprit is the cam chain tensioner. You'll have to clean and investigate.

          4) Plug wires are integrated into the coils. If the coils work fine you don't have to fix them.

          5) The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to leakage. The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to slip out of adjustment. Decide based upon that.

          DON'T FORGET TO REPACK YOUR SWINGARM BEARINGS! They've probably never been serviced.
          I use good synthetic fork oil... I use ATF to clean them out and drain again. I will look at swing arm bearing and wheel bearings also. Guess I'll make a smallngasntankntonuse when syncing carbs.

          Are wheel bearing sealed units or are the re-greasable?
          Last edited by LugNut; 04-22-2021, 07:24 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
            4. I would upgrade to Dyna green 3 ohm coils and new wires. The factory wires are not easily replaceable.
            Are they pretty stock appearing and do they fit easily in Stock location without. Modification?

            Comment


            • #7
              Is this the style automatic cam chain tensioner adjuster I need???
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by LugNut View Post
                Are wheel bearing sealed units or are the re-greasable?
                Typically, no. If you can regrease in place that's fine. Many replacement bearings have plastic covers. I replaced mine with OE Koyo. Left rear is the exception. It's harder to find, so grease in place.

                Are they pretty stock appearing and do they fit easily in Stock location without. Modification?
                XJ4Ever.com sells them as a kit. You get everything in one package. I took me thirty minutes or less to do the whole swap in my driveway. Otherwise, yes you can do it easily enough, but you'll be running back and forth to the hardware store or waiting for another brown truck delivery. The Dyna coils do not fit in the stock location without modification. XJ4Ever handles that for you, with simple instruction. My wife can't hold a screwdriver, but with that kit, she might be able to do the job! It's a couple of bucks and you don't have to reinvent the wheel.
                Marty (in Mississippi)
                XS1100SG
                XS650SK
                XS650SH
                XS650G
                XS6502F
                XS650E

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post

                  Typically, no. If you can regrease in place that's fine. Many replacement bearings have plastic covers. I replaced mine with OE Koyo. Left rear is the exception. It's harder to find, so grease in place.



                  XJ4Ever.com sells them as a kit. You get everything in one package. I took me thirty minutes or less to do the whole swap in my driveway. Otherwise, yes you can do it easily enough, but you'll be running back and forth to the hardware store or waiting for another brown truck delivery. The Dyna coils do not fit in the stock location without modification. XJ4Ever handles that for you, with simple instruction. My wife can't hold a screwdriver, but with that kit, she might be able to do the job! It's a couple of bucks and you don't have to reinvent the wheel.
                  Very cool thanks!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here is the write-up I did. That kit is painless!

                    https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...kit-for-xs1100
                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Great advice so far. As for synching the carbs and adjusting the idle mixture screws I just remove my seat and turn my tank around backwards. support the top end of the tank with a 2 x 4 which also elevates it. This allows full access to all the screws for both synch and idle mixture checks. I always removed the forks to service them. Especially if they haven't been done in forever. You will almost always find some gunk build up in the bottoms of them. Once fully disassembled you can run and old rag down in them. I just use the old fork oil on the rag. You can devise something to plunge the rag in and out.
                      Last edited by cajun31; 04-22-2021, 07:30 PM.
                      2 - 80 LGs bought one new
                      81 LH
                      02 FXSTB Nighttrain
                      22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
                      Jim

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've always just elevated the tank with a few short 1x6 boards, front and back, to sync the carbs. Didn't have to disconnect the level sensor or fuel lines this way.

                        ---Bax
                        80 SG, --- Slightly modified with EFI.....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Any links for the cam tensioner upgrade?
                          Best model to use and year?
                          my original (1980, 35k mi.) is leaking and a bit of chain noise when cold. Thanks

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cnap504 View Post
                            Any links for the cam tensioner upgrade?
                            Best model to use and year?
                            my original (1980, 35k mi.) is leaking and a bit of chain noise when cold. Thanks
                            look in the maintenance section of this site.
                            2 - 80 LGs bought one new
                            81 LH
                            02 FXSTB Nighttrain
                            22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
                            Jim

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well got automatic cam chain tensioner coming.... And AUX fuel stand for syncing carbs (have 6 bikes and 3 of them have multiple carbs).... Only about $20 for the AUX fuel container that hangs....

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