1981H xs1100 rebuild project, started Feb.2017

[FranksBMW]

Another warmer day!

Today I reinstalled the rebuilt rear brake caliper and master cylinder, and the mufflers. Removed the carbs so I can go through them more comprehensively. After watching a video on youtube, I feel confident doing this for the first time.

Still to do: clean carbs, source ignition key with matched ignition unit, fix or replace tank, put up with duct tape or replace seat, source and install headlight bucket and front turn signals, bleed the brakes, replace fork oil.

Last thing is new tires but only when running well.

[FranksBMW]

Yesterday I removed the carb rack and bought a can of carb cleaner spray in anticipation for this task.

Another warm day, Mar 19. Read the directions in a thread here and adjusted the cam chain tensioner. The area behind my engine's timing cover looked very clean and unmolested. Nice.

-bike on centre stand
-remove spark plugs
-turn engine clockwise with big square nut on timing plate
-turn just to match C with pointer, don't overshoot and turn back, not even a little bit



Once the bike is running, I'll look into replacing the cam chain tensioner with a more robust unit from a Yamaha 1300 v4. Question: from any year?

[TopCatGr58]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

Take your pick, lots to choose from.

T.C.

[motoman]

Yesterday I removed the carb rack and bought a can of carb cleaner spray in anticipation for this task.

Another warm day, Mar 19. Read the directions in a thread here and adjusted the cam chain tensioner. The area behind my engine's timing cover looked very clean and unmolested. Nice.

-bike on centre stand
-remove spark plugs
-turn engine clockwise with big square nut on timing plate
-turn just to match C with pointer, don't overshoot and turn back, not even a little bit



Once the bike is running, I'll look into replacing the cam chain tensioner with a more robust unit from a Yamaha 1300 v4. Question: from any year?

As T.C. stated, lots to choose from. If your kinda stuck on the Yammy V-4, either the ones off the 1200 or 1300 is just fine. Plus, if you pull both off the 1200 or 1300 V-4, ya got an extra, just cause'. I got one off the V-4 1200 Yammy here locally, then when 3Phase was here a yr. later, we went got the other one and installed it on his 80G dresser. IIRC, the cost was $15 for each one. I considered it cheap insurance not to have a loose timing chain, throwing that valve timing off a tad ever again. Besides, the stock one will not stay correctly adjusted anyways, specially with a hard de-cell.

[FranksBMW]

Plus 15C today. Took the carbs apart again today, more completely, and used carb cleaner spray. Everything went smoothly except for the 2 inner carbs. There is what I think air/fuel mixture adjustment screws on top by the rubber boot closest to the motor. The screws would not budge and the previous owner mangled the screwdriver slot in them. I didn't try too hard though.

I still have to bleed the rebuilt brakes (original parts cleaned) and deal with a possible stripped bleeder hole on one of the front callipers. I'll need to run a thread tap through it, I guess?

Then I'm ready to replace or fix/clean gas tank and clean the fuel petcocks.
Still need a headlight bucket and a matched ignition unit with key.

There is something fairly large and loose rattling inside the mufflers, so they will eventually need to be replaced, like the ripped seat, but that can wait until the bike is running.

[FranksBMW]

It's alive! Started and ran with a temporary fuel source and temporary car battery hookup. Some blue smoke but that's okay for now. Kept it between 2K and 4K rpm to warm it up nicely and make sure oil gets pumped to where it needs to go.
Happy, happy!

[motoman]

It's alive! Started and ran with a temporary fuel source and temporary car battery hookup. Some blue smoke but that's okay for now. Kept it between 2K and 4K rpm to warm it up nicely and make sure oil gets pumped to where it needs to go.
Happy, happy!

Good to hear! For those stuck mixture screws, may try squirting a few drops of Kroil in there and let it set overnite. That may release them. You can get a can of Kroil at local NAPA, ACE hardware or Tru-Valu and many other places.

[FranksBMW]

I've got WD40 in those recessed mixture screws. Is Kroil much better? How about heat?

[DiverRay]

WD40 is NOT intended for that! I use a "cheap" Kroil, and it's made at home! Get a small can of acetone, and mix it 50/50 with ATF. I keep a mixture in a METAL oil can. The ATF (automatic trans fluid) has VERY GOOD anti rust qualities, and the acetone works it into all kinds of tight places. Read test a few years back, and it beat anything on the market for freeing up rusted bolts. They used steel bolts soaked in salt water for three days as a test, IIRC.

[motoman]

I've got WD40 in those recessed mixture screws. Is Kroil much better? How about heat?

Sorry, but WD-40 is mis-represented, and as a result gets mis-used on a regular bases. Heat, other than a hot blow-dryer is DEFINITELY a no.
Again, Kroil as I first suggested. Trust us here, our responses are NOT just guessing responses. Already several steps ahead of you, and will respond with that after you do what's suggested FIRST.

[DiverRay]

Sorry, but WD-40 is mis-represented, and as a result gets mis-used on a regular bases.

motoman has it correct. And, just so people know, the WD stands for Water Displacement, Formula try number 40. It was made to keep the nuke missiles ready to fire, and keep water off the stainless steel skins.

[FranksBMW]

Okay, but the point here is that IT'S ALIVE!

[motoman]

Okay, but the point here is that IT'S ALIVE!

That's a good thing, but actual point is, your still gonna have to remove those pilot screws along with other internal parts of carbs in order to clean them so motor runs good and correctly. Fortunately, you got a good START.

[FranksBMW]

big picture: the bike runs

[MaximPhil]

big picture: the bike runs

Hi Frank,
spring is sprung and the bike runs....all good so far
Phil