Godzilla Resurrection: Re-build thread

[TopCatGr58]

Point of No Return!

Hey there folks,

Okay, got a fair amount of stuff done today. Took off handlebars, rear and front calipers and brakes/master cylinders, cruise pads/forward controls, Aux Lights, footpegs, aluminum peg brackets, headlight, gauge cluster, front wheel, triple tree/forks, and the entire eletrical harness! Had taken off the engine rotor from the right side, and found a fair amount of grunge/evidence of oil that has probably leaked out around the crank seal. I know what you're thinking, that the oil was actually leaking from the galley plug at the bottom of the alt chamber, but I had replaced that seal / O-ring just a year or so ago when I did the Mini Race Alt Mod.



Then took off the left timing cover, and timing parts, and found this.



Then I looked closer and realized that the left crank seal doesn't appear to have been leaking, but the GALLEY PLUG has been. It's just sealed with an O-ring and after 30 years, it's gotten compressed, and apparently has been leaking....thus all of the grunge on the timing cover and side of the engine. However, some of that may also have been leaking from the valve cover down the front of the engine and windblown around, and some of it was from my old OEM style CCT that I know had leaked in the past!

Here's what's left of the tear down.



And these two show how I've made it into a convertible frame!


Have cut the frame off just above the motor mounts front and back, and will be welding some angle iron to them so that I'll be able to then secure them to my engine stand. I have made a HOIST out of some 2" x 8" x 8feet sections of old bed frame rails that I have repurposed, have braced it so it won't tilt over, mounted a nice strong O hanger bracket that I'll be attaching a come-along, and I'll be able to position it over the bike lift to be able to hoist it up and then mount it to the engine stand, so I can then do both cleaning and work on the engine....the crank seals, the timing chain, shift cover, clutch cover and new springs, along with painting, polishing and such!


T.C.

[MarkD]

Looking good, T.C. I'v always admired guys who have the skill and patience to do what you're doing to keep a piece of your history in the shape it deserves. Keep on keepin' on.

[3Phase]

After all this time I've tried different ways to get the engine out or work on it!

Flip it upside down; lay it on its side; out the left or right side; hanging it
suspended from the walls and ceiling and you can just take the top of the frame off and use a powered hoist?

Man... that's a nice start to the project!

[RichW1064]

Hey folks,

I know how we all love photos, so I've collected quite a few to show the history of Godzilla, hope they all fit within this one post, otherwise I will have to split it across a couple of posts....the site's software sometimes glitches when trying to put/post too many in one post!?

I got the bike "NEW" in 1983, rode it for a couple of years while still in the NAVY, then got a civ. job, had to commute on it, and here's what happened the first month of commuting. Note the smashed/crushed windshield that I impaled against as I flew thru my windscreen and across her hood!
This was also the incident that bent the steering neck/frame unbeknownst to me and the bike shop for some 20 years.

1986




snip...
T.C.

really... goodgreif, she must have turned "right" into you..! really... glad that you have a story to tell Brother... those that have been silenced need to be heard...

[TopCatGr58]

Another bite out of that ELEPHANT!

Worked on the bike some more today, made the angle iron sections that bolt onto the Engine Stand, made a mistake, had to change and make an adaption, but got it done.

No, this isn't a new way of routing the exhaust, just couldn't figure any other way of sealing the exhaust ports while I used the pressure washer!



Found out some plastic bottles were an almost perfect fit to seal up the intake side!


Hit it with the pressure washer first, then used compressed air to dry it, then sprayed it with Degreaser cleanser, let it soak, and then pressure washed it again. Did SOME good, but that baked on grease/oil is just too much. I don't have a sand/media blaster, so looks like I'll have to attack it with a brass wire brush and my drill!

I'll be taking the valve cover, tranny cover, clutch cover, gear shift cover, timing cover off and cleaning them and then polishing them so that they will make a nice shiny contrast to the gloss black engine case I'll be painting totally black! But I'll be doing some accent color as well, hope it turns out okay!?

Like the subject, feel like I'm trying to eat an elephant....and how do you do that....one bite at a time!

T.C.

[kboehringer]

Dawn Liquid and Simple Green

Hit it with the pressure washer first, then used compressed air to dry it, then sprayed it with Degreaser cleanser, let it soak, and then pressure washed it again. Did SOME good, but that baked on grease/oil is just too much. I don't have a sand/media blaster, so looks like I'll have to attack it with a brass wire brush and my drill!

T.C.,
Making fast progress! Hope to see this at XSSE.... If you lived a LITTLE closer I'd be there getting greasy with you.

I have tried many degreasers and found the best luck with only two items. Dawn Dish Liquid and Simple Green. Simple green is a little pricey from the store but we buy it in 55 gallon drums at work! Dawn is only a dollar or two and I've had great luck mixing a bit really rich (like 50% water 50% Dawn) and spraying it on with a hand sprayer. Let it soak as long as you are able.

It isn't going to hurt anything. Personally, before I paint ANYTHING it gets a good washing with Dawn anyway.....

KURT

[XJOK2PLAY]

TC,
When you get to the painting part, what the guys told you about high humidity is absolutely correct!
Also, never paint on a rainy day.

Both situations will cause the paint to "blush".

High temps are a challenge if the humidity is 50% or lower, but if you choose the proper temp reducer it can be done. Higher temps will make it "flash" faster, so a slower reducer helps. Look closely at the temp range of the reducer you buy. Know the time of day, and expected temp that day you'll be painting before you buy your reducer.

Tack cloths are your friend!
The other biggee... Dirt in the air, or dirt on the floor!
I always wet the floor down just before I paint.
Wax and grease remover is another must. Nothing worse than a tiny drop of WD-40 to totally ruin a paint job, and your day.

Fish eye eliminator is also a good thing.

I've found my best paint jobs have happened when it's no warmer than 78 degrees, the metal to be painted is at that temp, and all my prep work and materials are correct. Humidity at or less than 50%...

I realize you may not be so lucky, what with your weather and your time frame left before the rally, be the guys at most reputable paint stores can help you a lot when buying the proper stuff you'll need for the conditions.

Also, if you're doing a basecoat/clearcoat app, don't get too carried away with large amounts of basecoat color. It won't look shiny or all that great until the clear goes on, then it'll pop. Don't get too carried away with heavy coats of clear! Now... how would I know this?? Lol... Believe me... it happens.
And... runs suck.

I used to be a fleet mechanic, back in the late 80's early 90's, and repairing/painting wrecked cable trucks kept me pretty busy.

Only other 2 pieces of advice I can think of- 1; if you doubt the perfection of your bodywork, don't choose black. 2; Don't be surprised if after you sweat great drops of blood and accomplish the perfect paint job, just as you step back to admire it a fly always will come along...
That's when it's good to have alcohol on hand... to numb the sting.

Here's hoping all goes well on your build and you make XSSE.
Bob

[3Phase]

You knew this was coming, right?

Here's something to listen to while you work on that baby:-


Click Me

[RichW1064]

nice job... lol... your a bunch of ok Brothers... nice crowd...

[RichW1064]

Okay, proceeded to work on my petcock adapter plates...had lots of spare aluminum plate, had already drilled the main hole and mounting holes, and had roughed out the shape/size, but had to eventually go to Northern Tool to find a drill bit big enough(my set stops at 1/2") to make the preliminary hole so that I could run my 3/8" NPT tap for the petcocks! It is supposed to be a 37/64", but I settled on a 9/16"=36/64 but was enough room to start the tap working!!!

Got the first one tapped mounted in my little 3-1/2" Sears Vice I've had for decades, but while working on the second one, the base lock wouldn't hold tight, and when I finally took a closer look, saw this!


Here's the bottom view showing it's a complete thru and thru crack. The locking bolt head was also messed up, this is a new one just test fitting.


So..I took it apart and off of my bench, drill/wire brushed the excess paint off of the edges, and proceeded to do what folks have said you can't/shouldn't do....WELD CAST IRON!



T.C.

when I say to you, "you sure are hard on your tools", you may want to translate it as "it's time for a bigger vise..."

[TopCatGr58]

when I say to you, "you sure are hard on your tools", you may want to translate it as "it's time for a bigger vise..."

Hey Rich,

Bigger isn't always better, at least that's what I keep telling my SWMBO!

It broke again this weekend, so I just layed a few extra layers of weld both on top/into the crack, as well as along both sides trying to get more purchase into the case material. We'll see. I do have both a much larger one on another bench that the B-I-L installed, but it's not as easily accessible.

Hey Scott, thanks, BTW, that view of the engine with the exhaust on top almost looks like an ELEPHANT trunk!?

Got the old paint/clear removed from the fenders and license plate holder/light, and shot them with the Rust converter primer, in preparation for putting on the actual color and maybe the clear this weekend. I'll be doing the MECH work on the engine as well, and then painting it also. Huff, huff!
I didn't think I was procrastinating, I was working on it every weekend since like June, but ~12hours a weekend apparently wasn't enough...so now I'm rushing....dammit! I've got just these next two weekends to get it all done, have to get it running and inspected the 3rd weekend, and the 4th weekend is XSSE!!!!

T.C.

[MPittma100]

Xsse 2016

Hey Rich,

Bigger isn't always better, at least that's what I keep telling my SWMBO!

It broke again this weekend, so I just layed a few extra layers of weld both on top/into the crack, as well as along both sides trying to get more purchase into the case material. We'll see. I do have both a much larger one on another bench that the B-I-L installed, but it's not as easily accessible.

Hey Scott, thanks, BTW, that view of the engine with the exhaust on top almost looks like an ELEPHANT trunk!?

Got the old paint/clear removed from the fenders and license plate holder/light, and shot them with the Rust converter primer, in preparation for putting on the actual color and maybe the clear this weekend. I'll be doing the MECH work on the engine as well, and then painting it also. Huff, huff!
I didn't think I was procrastinating, I was working on it every weekend since like June, but ~12hours a weekend apparently wasn't enough...so now I'm rushing....dammit! I've got just these next two weekends to get it all done, have to get it running and inspected the 3rd weekend, and the 4th weekend is XSSE!!!!

T.C.

Hi TC,

Lots of work you have lined yourself up for. Good luck with getting it all done within the deadline. I'm sure you will be proud of the finished product.

If you end up having to get another vise, I strongly recommend the Wilton brand. You will only ever need one.

It is interesting that you have to have a bike inspected in your state. No inspection is required in many surrounding states.

[HalfCentury]

Hi TC,

Lots of work you have lined yourself up for. Good luck with getting it all done within the deadline. I'm sure you will be proud of the finished product.

If you end up having to get another vise, I strongly recommend the Wilton brand. You will only ever need one.

It is interesting that you have to have a bike inspected in your state. No inspection is required in many surrounding states.

In NC, no inspection the first year for a used bike. The second year, and thereafter, every year requires an inspection. The only thing they inspect at the station I go to is the serial number on the bike and compare that to the registration card. Maybe they look at the turn signals. It only takes about 3 minutes for the actual inspection.

[madmax-im]

In NC, no inspection the first year for a used bike. The second year, and thereafter, every year requires an inspection. The only thing they inspect at the station I go to is the serial number on the bike and compare that to the registration card. Maybe they look at the turn signals. It only takes about 3 minutes for the actual inspection.

In NC any vehicle that is 35 yrs old or older is inspection exempt...and you can put any license plate on the bike so long as the year on the plate matches the year of your bike...but you do have to have it fully licensed and registered with a valid NC plate that is kept with the vehicle...

[HalfCentury]

In NC any vehicle that is 35 yrs old or older is inspection exempt...and you can put any license plate on the bike so long as the year on the plate matches the year of your bike...but you do have to have it fully licensed and registered with a valid NC plate that is kept with the vehicle...

My XJ1100 will not be 35 yrs old until 2017. I first registered the XJ1100 in NC in 2014. They sent a notice to inspect in 2015 and again this year.

The 2015 experience was a cluster truck. The VIN on the bike did not match the VIN on the registration. That was a load of fun to have corrected. Can you say bureaucracy? The state trooper who I had to visit to inspect the bike and run the theft search met me with a pistol strapped to his hip and handcuffs on his belt. I had visions of being arrested or at least having the bike confiscated. Lesson learned about checking the VIN on the bike vs the VIN on the title when purchasing.