Intermittent loss of power

[dbeardslee]

All I can be sure of is that the digital meter says 7 ohms, without a decimal, but the analog meter swings all the way to zero. Since the analog meter is brand new, I tend to believe it more than the digital one in this case. The way the dial reads, there is no mistaking the low readings (below 5 ohms), since the numbers get closer together as the value rises. If it was .7, it would be visible.

Did you check the model number on the coils?

[CatatonicBug]

Ok, a few revelations...

First, the analog meter reads in 1k ohm increments, so something as small as 3 ohms would never show up on it. Back to trusting the digital meter for resistance readings.

There is no label on the coils themselves. I do have the box they came in (used, from another XSive) and the label on the box says they are 140403.

I ohmed the coils right at the point where they connect to the plug wires, and got clear readings:
Coil 1&4: 11870 ohms
Coil 2&3: 11520 ohms

Another thing. I took each plug wire off the coils, and ohmed each one individually:
1 = 5540 ohms
2 = 4300 ohms
3 = 5600 ohms
4 = 6190 ohms
Does that say anything?

[dbeardslee]

140403 is the correct 3 ohm coil. Did you check the primary resistance right on the coil terminals?

On the other resistance measurements, the measurements taken directly at the coil for the secondaries look pretty close to spec. Which begs the question, why are the resistance values so much higher when checked across the wires? You're not running resistor wires, are you?

To me the plugs look like they're close enough for government work - but someone else who knows more about plugs might have a different opinion.

[CatatonicBug]

I just checked the terminals at the coil connectors, and get 3 ohms on both, so we're good there. In the process, the left coil (2&3) connector had wire come loose, so I replaced both terminals in that connector.

The plug wires say they offer "RFI Suppression". They also say Graphite, Silicone Plus, 8.8mm. Not sure what all that means, but I do remember reading that resistance is the key to avoiding radio interference (i.e., RFI Suppression).

[dbeardslee]

I just checked the terminals at the coil connectors, and get 3 ohms on both, so we're good there. In the process, the left coil (2&3) connector had wire come loose, so I replaced both terminals in that connector.

The plug wires say they offer "RFI Suppression". They also say Graphite, Silicone Plus, 8.8mm. Not sure what all that means, but I do remember reading that resistance is the key to avoiding radio interference (i.e., RFI Suppression).

Sounds like you've got resistor wires. Lets do some math. You've got about 12k ohm resistance on the coils, plus another 10k ohm resistance in the wires, plus another 10k resistance in your plugs for a total of about 32k ohms resistance. Sounds like a lot of resistance to me.

Then you've got one plug that's showing 6,190 ohms resistance. If the same 20% plus or minus holds true for plugs, then the out of spec magic number would be 6k ohms. You say the symptom has been that you're dropping two cylinders, but the way a waste spark system works I would think if you drop one plug on the coil neither one would spark. So maybe you've got a bad plug there. Might be wrong about that, but to me that seems like the way it should work.

With that much resistance across your secondaries I think the first thing I would try is some non-resistor plugs with the gaps set at .035 just to see how it acts.

Still doesn't explain why the black/white on your TCI isn't showing any voltage, but I think I'd still try the plugs. Might get lucky.

[motoman]

Ok, a few revelations...

First, the analog meter reads in 1k ohm increments, so something as small as 3 ohms would never show up on it. Back to trusting the digital meter for resistance readings.

There is no label on the coils themselves. I do have the box they came in (used, from another XSive) and the label on the box says they are 140403.

I ohmed the coils right at the point where they connect to the plug wires, and got clear readings:
Coil 1&4: 11870 ohms
Coil 2&3: 11520 ohms

Another thing. I took each plug wire off the coils, and ohmed each one individually:
1 = 5540 ohms
2 = 4300 ohms
3 = 5600 ohms
4 = 6190 ohms
Does that say anything?

If what you stated is true, your using the wrong scale stting of the OHM meter. Again, leads go across each 12v plug in on the coils. Your response is telling me your doing the ohm check incorrectly or meter is set on wrong scale. If wrong scale setting that means you got 549ohms on one coil and either 600 or 190 on the other. C Bug.. you only got two coils to check. set meter on ohms, then the two leds go across each of the two 12v feed poles on coils. That gives you a reading for the two coils. Haven't a clue where your getting four rreadings from.....but your doing it incorrectly. If they are one-three tenths higher or lower than their rating the coils are FUBARED.

[CatatonicBug]

If what you stated is true, your using the wrong scale stting of the OHM meter. Again, leads go across each 12v plug in on the coils. Your response is telling me your doing the ohm check incorrectly or meter is set on wrong scale. If wrong scale setting that means you got 549ohms on one coil and either 600 or 190 on the other. C Bug.. you only got two coils to check. set meter on ohms, then the two leds go across each of the two 12v feed poles on coils. That gives you a reading for the two coils. Haven't a clue where your getting four rreadings from.....but your doing it incorrectly. If they are one-three tenths higher or lower than their rating the coils are FUBARED.

No, the reading is correct. What I was reading was the WIRES, not the coils. There are 4 plug wires. I removed each one from both ends, and ohmed each one individually. Due to the different lengths of the wires, I assume the resistance of each wire is different.

[motoman]

No, the reading is correct. What I was reading was the WIRES, not the coils. There are 4 plug wires. I removed each one from both ends, and ohmed each one individually. Due to the different lengths of the wires, I assume the resistance of each wire is different.

No,no,no. Re-read what I stated. You HAVE to check the COIL ohms C,Bug. unplug them AT the coils.........then take your wacked out meter, set it to ohms. Take the two probes and put each one on EACH of the 12v coil feeds on ONR coil. Note the ohm reading. Now do the other coil the same.........kids....they SYILL are so hard to train and get to follow simple instructions given,

[dbeardslee]

No,no,no. Re-read what I stated. You HAVE to check the COIL ohms C,Bug. unplug them AT the coils.........then take your wacked out meter, set it to ohms. Take the two probes and put each one on EACH of the 12v coil feeds on ONR coil. Note the ohm reading. Now do the other coil the same.........kids....they SYILL are so hard to train and get to follow simple instructions given,

He did that - got 3 ohms on each one.

[motoman]

He did that - got 3 ohms on each one.

Not that he has stated as of yet. C.Bug, check that those are ACTUALLY 3ohm coils FIRST. If they were in fact 7ohm coils, started thr bike with them on, then you just trashed the 4RO TCI module. Get it off there before you do more damage to electrical. Go check at some of the salvage places in north Salt Lake for some VFR coils. They will be either 1.7ohm or 3ohm. Take your good meter with you to check as they will NOT have the designation on them. Get rid of the Accel coils. Use the Honda VFR coils(3ohm). Before hooking them into system and kry on. Replace that fried TCI module. The VFR colis are plug'n'play. Go to NAPA and get 5ft. of either 7mm high temp multi steel core wire or solid copper wire. make up new plug wires.......solder on the coil ends to original plug-ins, make up the new wires and hook them into coils with the provided screw on water tight ends to coils. Plug your 5ohm plug end csps on each wire and onto plugs. Start it up and hose the fuel bowl levels of each carb. Your elevation is same as mine, so 3 leaning towards 4mm down from upper carb body is spot-on, just so tall four give you the same reading.. If not, remove carb bank and make VERY slight static float adjustments. Bolt back on, start bike and check fuel levels again. Remove carb bodies and tweak any float that doesnt corrospond to the 4mm fuel level. THEN re-set idle mixtures using the lean drop method, re-sync again, double check the lean drop method of idle mixtures and re-sync to that again, Then go ride putting a load on it looking for smoothness............That oughta' keep you tied up for most of a day to get it correct. Ain't no such thing as a 10-15min. tune and sync..

[dbeardslee]

Not that he has stated as of yet.

Check post #94

[CatatonicBug]

Yes, got 3 ohms on both.

I just went and bought new NGK BP6ES plugs. Installed them and put the bike back together and ran it around the block a bit. The problem has not resurfaced. I won't get a chance to really test ride till at least tomorrow, or maybe Monday, so I'll let you know what happens then.

[motoman]

Yes, got 3 ohms on both.

I just went and bought new NGK BP6ES plugs. Installed them and put the bike back together and ran it around the block a bit. The problem has not resurfaced. I won't get a chance to really test ride till at least tomorrow, or maybe Monday, so I'll let you know what happens then.

Like to know your results getting that scoot under load while riding.

[CatatonicBug]

Well, after all that, the problem is back. Ran fine for 15 minutes or so, then after 5 minutes on the freeway, the 2 cylinders dropped out again. Grrrr!

[motoman]

Well, after all that, the problem is back. Ran fine for 15 minutes or so, then after 5 minutes on the freeway, the 2 cylinders dropped out again. Grrrr!

Didn't read all the input C.Bug, but think you got a broken one or two pick-up coli wires........under the wire insulation.