Intermittent loss of power

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  • dbeardslee
    XS-XJ Super Guru
    • Nov 2007
    • 4385
    • Maineville, OH

    #136
    Thinking about this a bit more, with the Accel coils you'd probably want to put the spark plug boot end on the coils since the Accel's have a male connector there, and put some NGK's on the plug end. My Dyna's have a female connector on the coils, and I forgot about the difference with the Accels.
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

    Comment

    • dbeardslee
      XS-XJ Super Guru
      • Nov 2007
      • 4385
      • Maineville, OH

      #137
      Originally posted by CatatonicBug
      Whatever I get needs to have a 90º cap on the coil end. I currently have a 90º cap on 2 of the plug ends (inside) and a less-angled (but not straight) cap on the outer plugs. I could probably get away with straight on all of the plugs, or use the 90º NGK caps you suggested on all 4.
      You might just want to make a trip down to O'Reilly and dig through some of the universal sets 'till you find the hardware you want. Or you could just get bulk wire, the terminals you need, and the proper caps. Might even be able to reuse the covers you've got on the Accels now, but going from 8.8mm to 7mm they might not fit real tight.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

      Comment

      • motoman
        Master of XSology
        • Aug 2005
        • 8413
        • Grand Junction, Colorado

        #138
        Originally posted by dbeardslee
        You might just want to make a trip down to O'Reilly and dig through some of the universal sets 'till you find the hardware you want. Or you could just get bulk wire, the terminals you need, and the proper caps. Might even be able to reuse the covers you've got on the Accels now, but going from 8.8mm to 7mm they might not fit real tight.
        Like I mpreviously stated, NAPA is your rfiend for plug wires, ranther the be stranded steel or solid core copper, Buy approx, five feet od your choice and nake up your own custon set.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

        Comment

        • dbeardslee
          XS-XJ Super Guru
          • Nov 2007
          • 4385
          • Maineville, OH

          #139
          Or you might look for a universal plug wire set that fits an 85-90 general motors 2.5L four cylinder. They used the distributor caps with the knobs, and you might be able to get all the parts you need that way - caps for both ends, and terminals. And they're usually 90 degree caps for the distributor end.

          This is what the distributor caps looked like -

          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment

          • CatatonicBug
            Master of XSology
            • Oct 2008
            • 6117
            • Clinton, UT

            #140
            Ok, new update...

            I opened up the midway connector for the pickups, and it was clean (still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it). However, I decided to check the ohms between there and the TCI connector just to be sure. All connections ohm'd to 0. I needed fuel before I did any additional testing, so I buttoned her up and went on a ride to really warm up the engine, waiting for the cylinders to drop out again. Well, 22 miles later, 2/3 of that over 80mph, and the problem has not resurfaced...

            I will ride to work tomorrow (30 miles each way) and see if the problem comes back. If not, I'll play with the plug wires over the next few days, and get the solid core ones installed over the weekend.

            Maybe the whole problem really was a funky connection in that midway connector after all.
            1980 XS850SG - Sold
            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
            -H. Ford

            Comment

            • bikerphil
              Master of XSology
              • Jan 2008
              • 8634
              • South Flori-DUH

              #141
              Originally posted by CatatonicBug
              Ok, new update...

              I opened up the midway connector for the pickups, and it was clean (still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it)
              Yep, that grease can go bad (YMMV) after a while and can cause an intermittent connection. I have had this exact problem, BTDT.

              GL with the test ride.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              Comment

              • BA80
                Doctor of XSology
                • Oct 2010
                • 9980
                • Tulsa, Ok

                #142
                Originally posted by CatatonicBug
                (still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it).
                Dielectric grease or just dino?
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

                Comment

                • CatatonicBug
                  Master of XSology
                  • Oct 2008
                  • 6117
                  • Clinton, UT

                  #143
                  Originally posted by BA80
                  Dielectric grease or just dino?
                  Dielectric. I treat ALL electrical connections with a light coat of the stuff. Especially great for outdoor/garage lightbulbs - prevents them from sticking in the threads.
                  1980 XS850SG - Sold
                  1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                  Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                  Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                  Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                  -H. Ford

                  Comment

                  • dbeardslee
                    XS-XJ Super Guru
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 4385
                    • Maineville, OH

                    #144
                    Originally posted by CatatonicBug
                    Dielectric. I treat ALL electrical connections with a light coat of the stuff. Especially great for outdoor/garage lightbulbs - prevents them from sticking in the threads.
                    Dielectric grease is non-conductive. I thought you were supposed to put that stuff in from that back of the connectors to seal them?
                    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                    Comment

                    • CatatonicBug
                      Master of XSology
                      • Oct 2008
                      • 6117
                      • Clinton, UT

                      #145
                      Originally posted by dbeardslee
                      Dielectric grease is non-conductive. I thought you were supposed to put that stuff in from that back of the connectors to seal them?
                      No, it IS non-conductive, but it is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. Apply in VERY small amounts, almost like paint. The action of pressing the two contacts together presses the grease out of the way, effectively sealing out air and preventing oxidation at the point of contact.
                      1980 XS850SG - Sold
                      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                      -H. Ford

                      Comment

                      • dbeardslee
                        XS-XJ Super Guru
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 4385
                        • Maineville, OH

                        #146
                        Originally posted by CatatonicBug
                        No, it IS non-conductive, but it is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. Apply in VERY small amounts, almost like paint. The action of pressing the two contacts together presses the grease out of the way, effectively sealing out air and preventing oxidation at the point of contact.
                        Everything I've read on it says not to put it directly on the conductors. And your recent experience may tend to bear that out. Even when you use it on spark plug wires you're only supposed to put it on the rubber part of the boot and the insulator, but not on the terminal itself. I'd clean that stuff off of the connector and recheck your voltages at the TCI. If they're back up to 12V, I wouldn't put it back inside the connector.
                        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                        Comment

                        • BA80
                          Doctor of XSology
                          • Oct 2010
                          • 9980
                          • Tulsa, Ok

                          #147
                          I have it inside that connector and have had for years. It prevents that connector from getting water in it and causing a misfire in heavy rain and after a wash.

                          As long as the connectors are tight it won't be a problem.
                          Greg

                          Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                          ― Albert Einstein

                          80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                          The list changes.

                          Comment

                          • CatatonicBug
                            Master of XSology
                            • Oct 2008
                            • 6117
                            • Clinton, UT

                            #148
                            Originally posted by dbeardslee
                            Everything I've read on it says not to put it directly on the conductors. And your recent experience may tend to bear that out. Even when you use it on spark plug wires you're only supposed to put it on the rubber part of the boot and the insulator, but not on the terminal itself. I'd clean that stuff off of the connector and recheck your voltages at the TCI. If they're back up to 12V, I wouldn't put it back inside the connector.
                            While I respect your opinion, I completely disagree. There is no reason to put it on the plug boots. They are non-conductive anyway, and they don't corrode. In the store, next to the lightbulbs, you'll find little packets of the stuff, and they call it "light bulb grease". You are supposed to lightly paint it all over the metal end of the light bulb before inserting it into it's socket. I do agree that there may be times that moisture can collect on, in or around the grease, possibly adding conductivity to the mix, but really no more than would happen without the grease.
                            1980 XS850SG - Sold
                            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                            -H. Ford

                            Comment

                            • dbeardslee
                              XS-XJ Super Guru
                              • Nov 2007
                              • 4385
                              • Maineville, OH

                              #149
                              People put it on the plug boots to keep them from bonding to the insulator and to prevent voltage leakage. Supposed to make the boots easier to remove. I don't use it. I fail to see how a coating of something that's non-conductive between terminals is going to improve the flow of electrons. But there do seem to be varying opinions on it's use. Also, light bulbs operate at 115V A/C which is a lot more than the 12V D/C on most motorcycle connectors.

                              Again, I'd see what the dmm has to say about. If the voltages are the same with it as without, that's one thing. If they're different... well, that's different. Given Phil's experience with it (mentioned in post #141), and your recent issue, I'd say at the very least you want to clean those connections and reapply as part of regular maintenance if that connector turns out to have been the problem.
                              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                              Comment

                              • CatatonicBug
                                Master of XSology
                                • Oct 2008
                                • 6117
                                • Clinton, UT

                                #150
                                The light bulb use is mainly for automotive (12V) bulbs. However, it works GREAT on 120V bulbs too. I do agree that regular maintenance that includes flushing and re-application would be a good idea though. You never know what kind of conductive boogers might get caught in the stuff.
                                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                                -H. Ford

                                Comment

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