Intermittent loss of power

[dbeardslee]

Thinking about this a bit more, with the Accel coils you'd probably want to put the spark plug boot end on the coils since the Accel's have a male connector there, and put some NGK's on the plug end. My Dyna's have a female connector on the coils, and I forgot about the difference with the Accels.

[dbeardslee]

Whatever I get needs to have a 90º cap on the coil end. I currently have a 90º cap on 2 of the plug ends (inside) and a less-angled (but not straight) cap on the outer plugs. I could probably get away with straight on all of the plugs, or use the 90º NGK caps you suggested on all 4.

You might just want to make a trip down to O'Reilly and dig through some of the universal sets 'till you find the hardware you want. Or you could just get bulk wire, the terminals you need, and the proper caps. Might even be able to reuse the covers you've got on the Accels now, but going from 8.8mm to 7mm they might not fit real tight.

[motoman]

You might just want to make a trip down to O'Reilly and dig through some of the universal sets 'till you find the hardware you want. Or you could just get bulk wire, the terminals you need, and the proper caps. Might even be able to reuse the covers you've got on the Accels now, but going from 8.8mm to 7mm they might not fit real tight.

Like I mpreviously stated, NAPA is your rfiend for plug wires, ranther the be stranded steel or solid core copper, Buy approx, five feet od your choice and nake up your own custon set.

[dbeardslee]

Or you might look for a universal plug wire set that fits an 85-90 general motors 2.5L four cylinder. They used the distributor caps with the knobs, and you might be able to get all the parts you need that way - caps for both ends, and terminals. And they're usually 90 degree caps for the distributor end.

This is what the distributor caps looked like -

[CatatonicBug]

Ok, new update...

I opened up the midway connector for the pickups, and it was clean (still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it). However, I decided to check the ohms between there and the TCI connector just to be sure. All connections ohm'd to 0. I needed fuel before I did any additional testing, so I buttoned her up and went on a ride to really warm up the engine, waiting for the cylinders to drop out again. Well, 22 miles later, 2/3 of that over 80mph, and the problem has not resurfaced...

I will ride to work tomorrow (30 miles each way) and see if the problem comes back. If not, I'll play with the plug wires over the next few days, and get the solid core ones installed over the weekend.

Maybe the whole problem really was a funky connection in that midway connector after all.

[bikerphil]

Ok, new update...

I opened up the midway connector for the pickups, and it was clean (still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it)

Yep, that grease can go bad (YMMV) after a while and can cause an intermittent connection. I have had this exact problem, BTDT.

GL with the test ride.

[BA80]

(still had a light coat of grease from the last time I cleaned it).

Dielectric grease or just dino?

[CatatonicBug]

Dielectric grease or just dino?

Dielectric. I treat ALL electrical connections with a light coat of the stuff. Especially great for outdoor/garage lightbulbs - prevents them from sticking in the threads.

[dbeardslee]

Dielectric. I treat ALL electrical connections with a light coat of the stuff. Especially great for outdoor/garage lightbulbs - prevents them from sticking in the threads.

Dielectric grease is non-conductive. I thought you were supposed to put that stuff in from that back of the connectors to seal them?

[CatatonicBug]

Dielectric grease is non-conductive. I thought you were supposed to put that stuff in from that back of the connectors to seal them?

No, it IS non-conductive, but it is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. Apply in VERY small amounts, almost like paint. The action of pressing the two contacts together presses the grease out of the way, effectively sealing out air and preventing oxidation at the point of contact.

[dbeardslee]

No, it IS non-conductive, but it is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. Apply in VERY small amounts, almost like paint. The action of pressing the two contacts together presses the grease out of the way, effectively sealing out air and preventing oxidation at the point of contact.

Everything I've read on it says not to put it directly on the conductors. And your recent experience may tend to bear that out. Even when you use it on spark plug wires you're only supposed to put it on the rubber part of the boot and the insulator, but not on the terminal itself. I'd clean that stuff off of the connector and recheck your voltages at the TCI. If they're back up to 12V, I wouldn't put it back inside the connector.

[BA80]

I have it inside that connector and have had for years. It prevents that connector from getting water in it and causing a misfire in heavy rain and after a wash.

As long as the connectors are tight it won't be a problem.

[CatatonicBug]

Everything I've read on it says not to put it directly on the conductors. And your recent experience may tend to bear that out. Even when you use it on spark plug wires you're only supposed to put it on the rubber part of the boot and the insulator, but not on the terminal itself. I'd clean that stuff off of the connector and recheck your voltages at the TCI. If they're back up to 12V, I wouldn't put it back inside the connector.

While I respect your opinion, I completely disagree. There is no reason to put it on the plug boots. They are non-conductive anyway, and they don't corrode. In the store, next to the lightbulbs, you'll find little packets of the stuff, and they call it "light bulb grease". You are supposed to lightly paint it all over the metal end of the light bulb before inserting it into it's socket. I do agree that there may be times that moisture can collect on, in or around the grease, possibly adding conductivity to the mix, but really no more than would happen without the grease.

[dbeardslee]

People put it on the plug boots to keep them from bonding to the insulator and to prevent voltage leakage. Supposed to make the boots easier to remove. I don't use it. I fail to see how a coating of something that's non-conductive between terminals is going to improve the flow of electrons. But there do seem to be varying opinions on it's use. Also, light bulbs operate at 115V A/C which is a lot more than the 12V D/C on most motorcycle connectors.

Again, I'd see what the dmm has to say about. If the voltages are the same with it as without, that's one thing. If they're different... well, that's different. Given Phil's experience with it (mentioned in post #141), and your recent issue, I'd say at the very least you want to clean those connections and reapply as part of regular maintenance if that connector turns out to have been the problem.

[CatatonicBug]

The light bulb use is mainly for automotive (12V) bulbs. However, it works GREAT on 120V bulbs too. I do agree that regular maintenance that includes flushing and re-application would be a good idea though. You never know what kind of conductive boogers might get caught in the stuff.