Rising from the ashes

[Blank Slate]

Link saved, thanks Ray.

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Took a week of grinding but I managed to get three stripped screws off the diaphrams. I can finally get inside the carbs to clean. Opened it up and found some nasty green crap.

How do I clean this? Carb cleaner or gasoline?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Blank,

You just want to use carb cleaner. If you have a bucket of it, you can actually SOAK the bowl in it, along with the float and metal parts you remove from the body. You do NOT want to soak the carb body in regular carb cleaner, is known to damage/destroy the butterfly shaft seals. Others have had good luck with Real PineSol and such....read the carb 101 tech tip and such....the float pins are an interference fit...Yamaha made them bigger near the head of the pin which after sitting/corrosion, makes it much more difficult to remove...especially without damaging/breaking the float post it is in. Again, see the techt tips for ways to get the pin out. THEN sand/emory cloth or such the PIN and test fit it back into the posts...until it just slides all the way to the head without any friction/pressure. The float bowls will keep the pin in place....this way you don't have to deal with the pins OEM snug fitting and resistance to removal which can help reduce the chance of float post breaking in the future.

T.C.

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Thanks for the tips Top Cat!

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Everything's going well except for one pilot jet that is stripped, plugged in there and I've run out of tools to get it out. Should I just throw some carb cleaner in it, blow air and Faghettaboutit?

Also I have 4 needle jets and thought they were all the same. But as Im putting them back in I see Two jets have 3 holes and the other two have 4 holes. Is there an order to put them bck in?

[3Phase]

How badly did you mangle the pilot jet? You might get away with running a tiny wire through the jet to clean the metering hole, then clean the body/tube of the jet with a toothpick and spray carburetor cleaner but it's a long shot.

Take a look at the three jets you managed to remove and see if you think you can leave the stripped jet in the carburetor and try to clean it in place.


The needle jets/emulsion tubes with the 4 holes go on the outer two carburetors and the ones with 3 holes go in two center carburetors.

Yamaha was trying to keep the two center cylinders cool by running them a little richer than the outer cylinders:
More holes == more air == hotter
Fewer holes == less air == cooler

.

[motoman]

Everything's going well except for one pilot jet that is stripped, plugged in there and I've run out of tools to get it out. Should I just throw some carb cleaner in it, blow air and Faghettaboutit?

Also I have 4 needle jets and thought they were all the same. But as Im putting them back in I see Two jets have 3 holes and the other two have 4 holes. Is there an order to put them bck in?

lol....in that initial pic., if I didn't know any better, I would of thought you green painted that all in there and on the components.....could not of taped it off and got that good a results.
The problem with your pilot jets cleaning idea.....it don't work. They need to be removed, cleaned and blown thru from the teeny-tiny atomizing hole end, which is on the 'blind' side base. Guessin' you popped off all or portion of screw-slot.....bummer. PB blaster has worked for some...then again, not so much. Lots of link/threads here from others that've had your same issue, and what worked for them. You can be sure, a puter savvy member here will throw some links out there for your reading.
And yes, there is an order for that specific yr. that mother Yammy did that with the emulsion tubes. One set of two went to outer two cyls., other set of two went to inner two cyls., but again, not ever having that model personnally, don't remember the cyl. pair orientation though, and not goona advise wrongly.

[Blank Slate]

I'm blaming the previous owner. All three other jets came out easy. This one, I never could get a bite on it with the screwdriver.

Thanks for the info guys

How badly did you mangle the pilot jet? You might get away with running a tiny wire through the jet to clean the metering hole, then clean the body/tube of the jet with a toothpick and spray carburetor cleaner but it's a long shot.

Take a look at the three jets you managed to remove and see if you think you can leave the stripped jet in the carburetor and try to clean it in place.


The needle jets/emulsion tubes with the 4 holes go on the outer two carburetors and the ones with 3 holes go in two center carburetors.

Yamaha was trying to keep the two center cylinders cool by running them a little richer than the outer cylinders:
More holes == more air == hotter
Fewer holes == less air == cooler

.

[Blank Slate]

Regarding the electrical and valves, I've waived the white flag of surrender and made appointment for a local Yamaha dealer to inspect the bike. $75 pickup fee, $100/hour labour costs and they said it will take 2.5 hours approximately for the diagnosis alone. $500 retainer to work on it since people abandon their bikes when the costs to fix are too high. Bike shop manager said these bikes are usually a pain to work on.

So my question to you guys, while bike is in the shop, what should I have them work on?

FYI, I have cleaned the carbs with a fine tooth comb, drained the gas tank, cleaned it, drained the oil tank, bought new filter, drained the mid oil, bought 3dot oil, bought new battery, new spark plugs, new fuses, (on the shopping list is a new seat, new tires, new disc brakes)

[jwhughes3]

As little as possible. They will run up shop charges while they scratch their heads wondering what to do.

Chasing electrical problems runs up the most shop time. Have them set valve clearance and fix the immediate issue which I assume is starting and get it back home.

Good luck.

John

[BA80]

Tough to find anyone in a bike shop these days that are even near the age of these bikes. I've worked on a lot of bikes and the XS11 is probably one of the easiest.

I bought an E from another member here a while back. It had been at a bike shop for nearly a year because it wouldn't start and the bike shop gave up on it. That's where I picked it up from. Took it home and had it running the next day.

[Blank Slate]

Yep I'll have a short list for the garage.
They asked me to put the bike back together before they come get it. Anybody know what this part is? I didnt label it :P

[3Phase]

That's one half of the airbox and the air filter.

.

[Rasputin]

It also looks like it is a gas soaked and shrunken K+N filter that does not fit well. Go to the K+N site and ask to speak to a rep or email them a question. They will replace that puppy with a brand new one on warranty. They do not care if you bought it or it came with the bike you bought. All they require is a picture of your existing filter.
They are awesome about this....trust me. I have pointed more than a few this way and every single one was honored on warranty.
PS. You have to fix the gas leak that caused it to happen. Not their requirement but a suggestion.

[mack]

I take it

pablo that you couldn't get the trailer working to bring the bike up to me for a day or two. My offer still stands.