Street fighter/ Bobber build 2.0

[Fearthepack]

Need to tone down the green feeling a little over whelmed....

[Fearthepack]

Stopped for a little dinner....



Sorry!!!!

[Fearthepack]

Carbs getting some attention.....

[Fearthepack]

It's nice when an idea turns out better then the one in your head.......

[IanDMacDonald]

Engine paint looks great!

[Fearthepack]

Getting closer to moving on to carbs......

[Fearthepack]

LOL and thanks

[3Phase]

As advertised the motion pro tool did not work so will be modifying it accordingly.

Good work not turning your valve train into so much bent scrap but it's a bummer about the tool. The Yamaha tool is still available and works first time, every time but it's somewhere around $100. Good luck!

Of course you know the vacuum line is special. It's made in an obscure mountain province of Japan by rolling silk-impregnated neoprene between the thighs of young virgins, it costs $1100/ft from the dealer and the engine'll 'splode if you try to use regular vacuum line. I've been flirting with disaster by using some of that automotive orange high-temp silicon that takes heat, stays flexible and will still push on and pull off of the fittings after being baked behind the cylinders for seven years but you can use pretty much anything you want.

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[Fearthepack]

As advertised the motion pro tool did not work so will be modifying it accordingly.

[Fearthepack]

3Phase, I understand that I was wondering if the hose it's self was special or I can just use any vacuum hose from auto store...

[3Phase]

Hey, Feathers! That hose from the timing cover is the vacuum advance line; goes to the #2 carburetor, not the manifold.

The auto chain tensioner is pretty cool too, isn't!

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[Fearthepack]

Did the ACCT upgrade from an Venture that works slick as hell.... Thank you to the original creative mind for this swap!!!!!

[Fearthepack]

Is the HOSE that comes out of the timing cover just regular vacuum hose or something special?

[Fearthepack]

Thank you sir that is pretty much what I had in my mind the only thing that wasn't clear to me was #8. rotating crank BACKWARDS wasn't sure if this was allowed in any procedure....

[DiverRay]

Trick for the tool:
1. rotate bucket you need to pull shim from so slot is toward center of head. this is for the screwdriver you need to pop the shim out with.
2. rotate engine so cam lobe has compressed valve all the way. NOTE THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION!
3. insert tool so the tip is on the bucket, and back of the tool is touching the head. Install the screw to hold tool in place.
4. SLOWLY rotate crank so cam lobe rotates to center of head, and away from the tool.
5. Once cam lobe is pointing up, 180 degrees from cam bucket, STOP!!
6. Use a small screw driver to "pop" the shim out of the bucket. I use a magnet on the driver to help remove the shim.
7. Put new shim in bucket, and push down to seat it in the oil.
8. Rotate crank BACKWARDS so cam lobe pushes down on bucket.
9. STOP once the bucket is most of the way down, and the cam lobe is CLOSE BUT NOT TOUCHING the tool.
10. Remove screw that is holding tool, and remove tool.
11. Rotate crank by hand a couple of rev's the correct direction, and recheck clearance.