I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[Dylano*]

Oh, and they are genuine Mikuni jets! *yay*

[3Phase]

Oh, and they are genuine Mikuni jets! *yay*

Out'a sight and blemish free!

.

[motoman]

Out'a sight and blemish free!

.

........till an ill fitting screw driver re-arrages the slot.

[3Phase]

Always with the negative waves, Moriarty!

........till an ill fitting screw driver re-arrages the slot.

Yeah, I know, I know: trim a screwdriver tip so that it fits in the pilot jet wells and fits the slots in the jets exactly! or it'll booger up the jets....

http://youtu.be/Xyh-JpWdGmQ]

.

[Dylano*]

Of course, that is a must. I have about three different sized flat heads that I grind to fit, snug as a.... well you get the point.

[Dylano*]

Today was a failure ):
Got jets in, put valve cover back on.
started it, gnarly popping (pilot screws 3 turns out)
turned out to 4, same, slightly better, turned to 5.
seemed to help..


found throttle cable was stuck open about 1/5.
Fixed that.

I think pilot screws are out 6 right now.
Seemed to run OK ish... valve cover gasket was DUMPING oil ):
NEED to fix that before I can determine if it runs good.

BUT I still have to do valves, so it would be silly to do the gasket before I do that.... ):

[3Phase]

Hey! Dylano! Good work getting bike-in-a-box running!

You need some Hylomar so you can R&R covers and other stuff while you work. It's reusable, works on oily surfaces; fairly easy to clean up when you're done; doesn't get stuck in the oil pump pick-up screen or gunk the engine if a small amount oozes out of a joint; don't have to go through a half-bazillion gaskets; don't have tor wait for (insert favorite sealing product here) to set up and cure enough for you work; don't have to clean up oil that dripped, sprayed or drizzled all over everything.


The engine's going to run like a large oriental goldfish without the airbox, air filter and stock exhaust but there a few things you can check:

When you first start the engine cold, check the exhaust pipes with your hand and see if any of them stay cold while the others start to warm up. Don't try that trick after the engine's been run or you'll have more skin in the game than you planned. Use a spray bottle or something to spritz water on the exhaust pipes while you watch and listen for it to sizzle.

Are you using the thumb-lever on the left-hand handlebar control for the enrichener (choke) when you start the engine?

Are all four of the little Start jets in the float bowls clean?

Are all of the vacuum ports on the rubber intake boots capped, the boots sealed on the cylinder head and the clamps tight on the carbs?

Even though the carbs aren't really synchronized yet, do you have the vacuum Boost Sensor hooked up to the #2 carb? The ported vacuum nipple in the #2 carb is very sensitive to the position of the throttle plate. If the plate's open a little further than it should be to get the engine to idle then the Boost Sensor will receive a vacuum signal and call for the wrong ignition timing map from the TCI.


If you can't set the valves, the next step before you get too involved with the new jets is to inspect and test the charging and ignition system. If either one of those is out of whack you can change jets in the carbs all day long and the engine will still run like a large oriental goldfish.

.

[Dylano*]

Hey! Dylano! Good work getting bike-in-a-box running!

You need some Hylomar so you can R&R covers and other stuff while you work. It's reusable, works on oily surfaces; fairly easy to clean up when you're done; doesn't get stuck in the oil pump pick-up screen or gunk the engine if a small amount oozes out of a joint; don't have to go through a half-bazillion gaskets; don't have tor wait for (insert favorite sealing product here) to set up and cure enough for you work; don't have to clean up oil that dripped, sprayed or drizzled all over everything.


The engine's going to run like a large oriental goldfish without the airbox, air filter and stock exhaust but there a few things you can check:

When you first start the engine cold, check the exhaust pipes with your hand and see if any of them stay cold while the others start to warm up. Don't try that trick after the engine's been run or you'll have more skin in the game than you planned. Use a spray bottle or something to spritz water on the exhaust pipes while you watch and listen for it to sizzle.

Are you using the thumb-lever on the left-hand handlebar control for the enrichener (choke) when you start the engine?

Are all four of the little Start jets in the float bowls clean?

Are all of the vacuum ports on the rubber intake boots capped, the boots sealed on the cylinder head and the clamps tight on the carbs?

Even though the carbs aren't really synchronized yet, do you have the vacuum Boost Sensor hooked up to the #2 carb? The ported vacuum nipple in the #2 carb is very sensitive to the position of the throttle plate. If the plate's open a little further than it should be to get the engine to idle then the Boost Sensor will receive a vacuum signal and call for the wrong ignition timing map from the TCI.


If you can't set the valves, the next step before you get too involved with the new jets is to inspect and test the charging and ignition system. If either one of those is out of whack you can change jets in the carbs all day long and the engine will still run like a large oriental goldfish.

.

It is running on all cyl.
I'm am using the choke when need be.
All jets are clean.
All vacuum ports are plugged.
Boost sensor is connected.

By this stage I'm very familiar with the carbs, and have cleaned them well a number of times...

Is there a good thread with info on what to look for int he ignition system XJ specific?

Also at this stage, I can't tell if it is actually running correctly with these jets, because I couldn't let it warm up all the way due to dumping oil rapidly

I think I am going to due the valves first, then re-seal, then get back to getting it running right.

Hopefully I have time to do the valves this weekend.

[mharrington]

Im dying to know if this bike is running properly now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dylano*]

IT RUNS! kinda :/ same **** as before it seems...

Just got the valve cover back on... with some Right Stuff...
Warmed it up, checked plugs... they were black.
4 over mains, 1 over pilots, pilot screws 6 out.
Screwed pilot screws down to 3.5 out.
No more black plugs, they look great.
Bike idles and rev's pretty good.
Took for test ride.
SAME DAMN THING AS BEFORE.
it idles and rev's FINE!
then after about half a block when I get on it a little,
shift, keep getting on it a little, till about 6k rpm in second.
Then I shift to third let off the gas, bike runs like ****,
wont want to rev at all then died.
Couldn't get it to start, till about 1 min later and keeping it rev'd up to about 4k
If I let it go any lower it would want to die, let out the clutch and hoble another half block... then it startes going a little better again, then runs fine for a sec, (only been in first and second for a sec at this point) then got home.

WTF is going on, I seriously am so baffled ): I don't know why it will idle and rev fine when Im stopped then under a load run like **** after a min.

any ideas?

I got a tip it might be my ignition unit... could it be?
Mine is pretty beat up!

Sorry for all the spelling and gram(cracker)atical errors, Im in a hurry.

[Dylano*]

If anyone is really dying to see my bike in it's very rough stage. I can post pics.

[BA80]

From what I've read and now seeing those connectors it sounds a LOT to me like your having electrical issues.

Clean up and repair all the connectors and connections. Maybe someone here can loan you an XJ TCI to plug in and see if that makes any difference.

[Dylano*]

From what I've read and now seeing those connectors it sounds a LOT to me like your having electrical issues.

Clean up and repair all the connectors and connections. Maybe someone here can loan you an XJ TCI to plug in and see if that makes any difference.

I believe trbig is going to let me borrow one.
If that falls through or he is busy or something, if anyone else out there has one...

I PROMISE I'LL SHIP IT BACK! With a $20 even! haha (:

[CaptonZap]

IT RUNS! kinda :/ same **** as before it seems...


Warmed it up, checked plugs... they were black.
4 over mains, 1 over pilots, pilot screws 6 out.
Screwed pilot screws down to 3.5 out.
No more black plugs, they look great.
Bike idles and rev's pretty good.
Took for test ride.
SAME DAMN THING AS BEFORE.
it idles and rev's FINE!
then after about half a block when I get on it a little,
shift, keep getting on it a little, till about 6k rpm in second.
Then I shift to third let off the gas, bike runs like ****,
wont want to rev at all then died.
Couldn't get it to start, till about 1 min later and keeping it rev'd up to about 4k
If I let it go any lower it would want to die, let out the clutch and hoble another half block... then it startes going a little better again, then runs fine for a sec, (only been in first and second for a sec at this point) then got home.


any ideas?

]

Is anyone besides me wondering about the 4 over mains?
Put a plug wrench in your pocket, (and Mea West has a question for you), go get on it and run it till it dies, coast to a stop with the clutch pulled in, and look at your plugs.
Come back and tell us what you see.
CZ

[Dylano*]

The four over mains are because of the pod filters and Open headers. That is going off the "jet recommendation chart" sticky thread, I believe it is a sticky anyways.

I have been checking my plugs after each test run ...with this her setup and my pilot screws and 3.5 is the first time they haven't been fuel fouled plugs. I had three over pilots before! Way too big. I think the mains are good.