I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[Dylano*]

Just ordered the YICS tool.
On Friday I will install 1 over pilots and 4 over mains, and vacuum sync!
Hopefully THEN it will run pretty decent, then I will deal with adjusting my valves after that!

My jets better be here by next Friday... Ordered them on the 7th and they STILL haven't given me tracking info ):

[Dylano*]

Anyone have a problem with me reusing the valve cover gasket along with some Right Stuff?

[3Phase]

Dylano, <pained expression> don't magnetize the shims, you may be able to use them later.</pain>

You can reuse the valve cover gasket if you get it out without breaking it too badly!


When you get the tool, you check the valve clearances and the shim sizes the same way everyone else does if they don't pull the cams:

Check the clearance on each valve and write it down on a piece of paper.

(Example clearances are from your earlier measurements)

#1 Intake: 0.005
#1 Exhaust: 0.006
#2 Intake: 0.004
#2 Exhaust: 0.008
#3 Intake: 0.004
#3 Exhaust: 0.007
#4 Intake: 0.002
#4 Exhaust: 0.007


Some of the valve clearances won't need to be adjusted so don't worry about them.

One at a time, remove the shims from the valves that are out of spec, read the thickness that should be printed on the underside of the shim or use a caliper to measure it.

Write the shim size next to the clearance for that valve.

Put the shim back, remove the tool and go to the next valve.

For example:

#1 Intake: 0.005
#1 Exhaust: 0.006 285
#2 Intake: 0.004
#2 Exhaust: 0.008
#3 Intake: 0.004
#3 Exhaust: 0.007 290
#4 Intake: 0.002 270
#4 Exhaust: 0.007 295


You may get lucky and be able to swap shims between the valves so you don't have to buy them.

In the imaginary example, if the swaps worked you would only have to buy two shims: a 280 shim for the #1 Exhaust and a 265 shim for the #4 Intake.

You don't have any spare shims at all right now so you'd have to buy the new shims before you start.

Remove the #1 Exhaust 285 shim and replace it with the new 280 shim, recheck the clearance

Remove the #4 Intake 270 shim and replace it with the new 265 shim, recheck the clearance

#1 Exhaust 285 shim replaces the #3 Exhaust 290 shim, recheck the clearance

#3 Exhaust 290 shim replaces the #4 Exhaust 295 shim, recheck the clearance

You will very rarely be this lucky but it has happened. I have usually been able to swap at least one shim but had to buy the others.

.

[BA80]

Pretty close, but don't use a magnet:

With the cam lobe off of the shim, you rotate the valve bucket until you see the notch in the valve bucket.

If you manage to get the valve adjusting tool to work then use a small screwdriver or a pick inserted into the notch in the valve bucket and under the shim to pop out the shim.

If you use a magnet to remove the shim you can magnetize the shim. If the shim gets magnetized it'll stick to the cam lobe and eventually wear down the lobe.



No, not really. It depends on how you removed the shims because you'd have to remove both of the cams to take out all of the shims at once.

The cam lobes are not ever supposed to even come into contact with the valve bucket itself without a shim.

Turning the crankshaft multiple times and dragging the cam lobes across the valve buckets to remove all eight valve shims would not be a good idea.



LMAO! YOU WISH!

.

Scott, don't be so anal. The instructions in the manual SAY to use a magnet. Magnetize the shims. I don't think so.

Removing those shims from the bucket can be a chore because of the suction created from the oil around them. There is a slot in the edge of the bucket to stick a pick or something similar in under the shim to break the suction. You might have to turn the bucket to find the slot.

I do them one at a time with the tool, a pick or small screwdriver, and A MAGNET!!!!!!

Be sure and install the shims with the numbers DOWN so they don't get rubbed of by the cam lobe.

[3Phase]

Yeah, I know what the Fine Manual says and Yamaha wants to sell complete new motorcycles, not parts and tools anyway. The factory didn't reuse used shims and the local Yamaha dealer doesn't even want to see my old shims, says they might be out of spec or magnetized.

Sure, they'll sell me their used magnetic shims out of the shop tray for a few points off of retail, they just don't want my used shims contaminating their used shims if that makes any sense.


The $5.00 fix for magnetized stuff:-

Magnetizer Demagnetizer Box

.

[BA80]

My shim kit came with a magnet to pick the shims up out of their compartments. My shims don't stick to each other let alone a cam spinning at 4000 rpm.

I call bulls**t.

[Dylano*]

I plan on using a magnet to assist in the removal process.
I did/do plan on demagnetizing them afterwards. (:

...Just for safe measure

[trbig]

My shims don't stick to each other let alone a cam spinning at 4000 rpm.

Which means your motor is only doing 2,000 rpm. Quit putting around so much, old man! You riding with Harleys?

local Yamaha dealer doesn't even want to see my old shims, says they might be out of spec or magnetized.

As bad as I hate to agree with Greg... Sounds like your local shop is a bunch of quacks, no disrespect. Well.. maybe a little. Never heard such nonsense about "Magnetizing shims" (A couple heat cycles in the motor will get rid of that anyway) and a simple micrometer of the shims will tell them if they're in spec or not. I've swapped and bought shims from several dealers from here to Texas and this is the first time I've ever heard such a thing. Any old bike mechanic usually has a big box of them stashed away. Even if they did get magnetized, try to pull a shim out with just a good magnet. Not gonna happen. You'll pull the whole bucket out first.

Although a magnetized shim would be nice at times when you drop one of those little cam cap nuts or washers and it kept it from bouncing down into the cam chain galley "black hole".

[BA80]

Which means your motor is only doing 2,000 rpm. Quit putting around so much, old man! You riding with Harleys?

Your backwards Tod, the cams spin at half the speed of the crankshaft (ie; 4 stroke) so 4000 rpm on the cams is 8000 rpms on the crankshaft which is still a little slower than normal for me.

[crazy steve]

One thing that should be noted on the valve adjustment is tight valves will effect your compression. I've personally seen compression losses of up to 60% with too-tight valves and that will affect your carb sync, so doing the valves before the sync can save you from doing it twice or sometimes just wasting your time. Now, just how tight they are can make a difference, but if you've got any that are at .003" or less (particularly exhaust valves), that will lower compression.

[Dylano*]

Good to know, none of my exhaust valves are that tight fortunately.

[3Phase]

Dylano, Steve,

The tight valve measurements Dylano posted are exactly why I suggested adjusting the valves before trying to sync the carbs. Running in circles chasing your tail in a tight valve/carb sync loop, then when the clearance is fixed all the carbon that's been collecting under the valve and the seat starts to break loose and voila! valve clearance tightens up again and you have to go back in and drop down another shim size.



Tod, Greg, it's all good, I was BSing! but I do have and use 120VAC degausser out in the garage for screwdrivers, wrenches, parts and stuff.

I think the reason the shop didn't want to take used shims -- not just my shims -- and spun the magnetized/out-of-spec line was so they didn't wind up with a shop tray full of 285 to 300 shims and nothing else until they bought a refill kit.

.

[Dylano*]

Well My valves aren't overly tight, i.e. they DO close completely.
So hopefully I don't have to re-adjust as you suggest I might! :/!

[crazy steve]

Well My valves aren't overly tight, i.e. they DO close completely...

Still having some clearance doesn't mean the valves are right. Generally, being off by more than one shim size will effect compression, the more it's off, the more effect you'll see. Tighter clearances effectively increases the cam duration, lowering compression.

On my XJ project, compression numbers prior to a valve adjustment weren't too good; 135 PSI on two, and 90 and 60 on the other two. I'll note that my clearances weren't much tighter than yours, and none were zero. After a valve adjustment? I got 180 on three, and 160 on the lowest one (and I expect that one to improve after some use), for gains of 33%, 100%, and 260% on the low cylinder! Valve adjustments do make a difference....

I'd also recommend using the looser early intake spec (.006-.008 instead of .004-.006) as that will give you more time between adjustments.

[Dylano*]

Still having some clearance doesn't mean the valves are right. Generally, being off by more than one shim size will effect compression, the more it's off, the more effect you'll see. Tighter clearances effectively increases the cam duration, lowering compression.

On my XJ project, compression numbers prior to a valve adjustment weren't too good; 135 PSI on two, and 90 and 60 on the other two. I'll note that my clearances weren't much tighter than yours, and none were zero. After a valve adjustment? I got 180 on three, and 160 on the lowest one (and I expect that one to improve after some use), for gains of 33%, 100%, and 260% on the low cylinder! Valve adjustments do make a difference....

I'd also recommend using the looser early intake spec (.006-.008 instead of .004-.006) as that will give you more time between adjustments.

Wonderful info, thanks!

I'll be sure to do that!

So I should get all my intake valves to .008"
and all of my exhaust valves to .010" ?