I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[BA80]

Stuff just accumulates in there because it's a low point. Lots of stuff mixed I bet. Probably never been opened in 30 years.

[Dylano*]

Stuff just accumulates in there because it's a low point. Lots of stuff mixed I bet. Probably never been opened in 30 years.

PHEW! Thats good new haha.
I was worried I was gonna get, "Classic sign of (something terrible)"

[Dylano*]

I think I might make this tomorrow:
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...yics-tool.html

Hopefully the specs are correct for my xj1100.

WE WILL SEE!


I would like some opinions on buy the tool though, as far as leaving it in?
Does anyone prefer to leave it in so it runs, idk, like a normal bike? haha

[natemoen]

Most everyone with an XJ puts them in and just leaves it in.

There are even some that when they have the head off they thread the YICS holes and screw plugs into the holes to eliminate it.

[Dylano*]

Most everyone with an XJ puts them in and just leaves it in.

There are even some that when they have the head off they thread the YICS holes and screw plugs into the holes to eliminate it.

Hm, maybe I won't waste time making that tool and just buy the good one I can leave in then.
Thanks!

[3Phase]

Dylano,

Take a breath, man, you're doing fine but you're flailing just a little bit! Better?

Alright, do you have a service manual? Forum member Catatonic Bug has a web site with all sorts of useful things, including the XJ1100J Service Manual.

First: Adjust the valve clearances
Second: Fix the dead cylinders
Third: Get a YICS tool and roughly synchronize the carburetors at idle. Don't get obsessed until you get the high speed main carburetor jetting mostly dialed in.


Cylinders Not Firing

There is a basic way to troubleshoot cold, dead, cylinders on your XJ.

Adjacent cylinder pairs not firing --#1 and #2 or #3 and #4 -- is probably a fuel problem. The carburetors are fed in pairs from the fuel tank -- #1 and #2 are fed from one fuel tap and #3 and #4 are fed from the other fuel tap.

Other patterns of cylinder pairs not firing -- #1 and #4, #2 and #3, #1 and #3, #2 and #4 -- is probably an ignition or electrical problem. The TCI fires the spark plugs together in pairs in what's known as a "wasted spark" ignition system. #1 and #4 fire at the same time followed #2 and #3.


Valve Clearance Check

The valve clearance is supposed to be checked with the engine cold, as from sitting overnight. It does matter.

The valve clearances decrease. As the valve faces and valve seats wear and the valves recede into the cylinder head, the valve stems stick further and further up and out of the valve guides. The valve train doesn't get noisy as it wears, it gets quiet. When the valve train starts to get really quiet it's time to check the clearances.

The camshaft lobes are hardened and the valve clearance adjustment shims themselves are super hard so the cam lobes get very little wear and the shims almost none at all. Used shims even after tens of thousands of miles are almost the same size as they were when new.

If you have a Yamaha, Kawasaki, or BMW dealership you can probably just walk in and buy some used shims. Bring the old shims and a set of calipers to check the thickness and diameter of the shims and make sure you get the correct shims before you walk out the door.


YICS:

You can leave the YICS tool in the cylinder head. The only problem I've heard about from doing that is the rubber on the tool melting or turning gooey over time and making a mess in the YICS passages.


XJ Ignition Boost Sensor and XS Vacuum Advance:

The XJ's electronic Boost Sensor uses a pressure transducer to sense the vacuum signal in almost the same manner as the XS's vacuum advance pot.

You will eventually need to get the carburetors synchronized properly with a YICS block-off tool and some type of gauges. The vacuum port used for the XJ's electronic Boost Sensor signal (and the XS11's analog mechanical vacuum advance signal) on the #2 carburetor is very sensitive to the position of the #2 carburetor throttle plate.

When the carbs are out of sync, it's quite likely that the throttle plate on the #2 carb will be open just a hair too far when you get the engine to idle correctly, uncovering the normally-closed vacuum port for the Boost Sensor. That will cause the Boost Sensor to call for the wrong ignition timing map in the TCI.


Here's a thread about the XS11's vacuum advance (my 1980G Standard) along with a short, 14MB video I made that shows how the manifold and vacuum advance vacuum work while actually riding:-

Video: Manifold and Advance Vacuum

Have fun!

.

[BA80]

That video link just goes to a post by Bwalker Scott. No video I could find there.

On another not related to the same subject. I noticed the other day that the diaphragm in my vacuum advance pot was leaking. It still worked but when I put vacuum to it it wouldn't hold. So I replaced it.

I was out running errands this morning and had about 90 miles on a tank of gas and figured the light would pop on any minute and I would need to switch to reserve. Nope. It went to 102 before the light came on and 104 before I had to switch.

If you mileage is getting bad, check the vacuum advance pot. It makes a difference.

[3Phase]

That video link just goes to a post by Bwalker Scott. No video I could find there.

Hmm, you're right. Scroll back up to the first post and click the picture of the two vacuum gauges and the timing wheel.

Heck with it, here's the link to the video, but read the thread too.

.

[Dylano*]

Scott,

I got all of them firing, the problem was my vacuum fuel regulator octy thing, bypassed that, (only using the rear petcocks) that got them all running. I seems as if the thing would randomly hold vacuum and even though there was still fuel in the filters, the carbs on whatever side would be dry.

On the bit of getting my valves set properly... where can I get that tool that holds the lifters down?

I will be ordering the yics tool in the near future so I can vacuum sync my carbs.

I am also waiting on all my jets to get here, and like I said I'm gonna try 1 over pilots and 4 over mains for the start.

That is WONDERFUL info on the boost sensor thing. Thank you.
I will also perform the test on that, to make sure it is actually functioning.

[BA80]

2 types.....http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...0063&_from=R40

[3Phase]

On the bit of getting my valves set properly... where can I get that tool that holds the lifters down?

Dylano,

You can remove the camshafts to change the shims but you need to be meticulous and careful. There is a tutorial on this site or you can follow the procedure in the Fine Manual. Either one must be followed exactly or you will mangle a valve or several.

Greg gave you a link to some excellent options on eBay, here are three more!

Genuine Yamaha 90890-01245-00 Valve Adjust Tool ~$82.00 from boats.net:-
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-01245-00.html

The Yamaha tool works 100% of the time. I bought one almost five years ago but it was nowhere even close to $100.00!

MotionPro Part# 08-0020 ~$12.00 from Motion Pro:-
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0020/

I've never used it but people have had mixed results with the Motion Pro tool. It works for some people, it doesn't work for other people, some people have successfully modified or "fixed" the tool and a few people have been reduced to gibbering and meeping quietly in the corner.


Brand ?? Valve Shim Removal Tool Part# 2854 ~$25.00 from eBay:-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151153794866

From the eBay listing:

Manufacturer Part Number: 2854
Tool Type: Valve Shim Tool
TIPS: Follow your Service Manual for best results
Warranty: Yes

Replacement For Yamaha Tool: YM-01245 / 90890-01245-00
Similar to Motion Pro Tool: 08-0020

Maybe you can be the guinea pig and let us know if this one works!

.

[Dylano*]

Dylano,

You can remove the camshafts to change the shims but you need to be meticulous and careful. There is a tutorial on this site or you can follow the procedure in the Fine Manual. Either one must be followed exactly or you will mangle a valve or several.

Greg gave you a link to some excellent options on eBay, here are three more!

Genuine Yamaha 90890-01245-00 Valve Adjust Tool ~$82.00 from boats.net:-
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-01245-00.html

The Yamaha tool works 100% of the time. I bought one almost five years ago but it was nowhere even close to $100.00!

MotionPro Part# 08-0020 ~$12.00 from Motion Pro:-
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0020/

I've never used it but people have had mixed results with the Motion Pro tool. It works for some people, it doesn't work for other people, some people have successfully modified or "fixed" the tool and a few people have been reduced to gibbering and meeping quietly in the corner.


Brand ?? Valve Shim Removal Tool Part# 2854 ~$25.00 from eBay:-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151153794866

From the eBay listing:

Manufacturer Part Number: 2854
Tool Type: Valve Shim Tool
TIPS: Follow your Service Manual for best results
Warranty: Yes

Replacement For Yamaha Tool: YM-01245 / 90890-01245-00
Similar to Motion Pro Tool: 08-0020

Maybe you can be the guinea pig and let us know if this one works!

.

Ok sweet...
Here is my plan:
one of these days, I'm going to go on a ride up north a little ways to a place called Browns Cycles, and see if he has one I can buy from him. They are AWESOME, and the old man there has been working on old yamahas his whole life. The place USED to be a yamaha dealer back when his dad owned it.

IF he does not have one, I will buy this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-V...14ebf1&vxp=mtr

I appreciate the links guys!

So all I'd do is rotate the cam to push down the lifter, bolt that tool onto said lifter (missing the shim) and magnet fish the shim out?

Would it bad to leave it with no shims in it for a while while I take them all out, and order new ones to put in, or would that screw up my lifters?
DOES ANYONE MAKE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS FOR THESE?! hahaha

[3Phase]

... So all I'd do is rotate the cam to push down the lifter, bolt that tool onto said lifter (missing the shim) and magnet fish the shim out?

Pretty close, but don't use a magnet:

With the cam lobe off of the shim, you rotate the valve bucket until you see the notch in the valve bucket.

If you manage to get the valve adjusting tool to work then use a small screwdriver or a pick inserted into the notch in the valve bucket and under the shim to pop out the shim.

If you use a magnet to remove the shim you can magnetize the shim. If the shim gets magnetized it'll stick to the cam lobe and eventually wear down the lobe.

Would it bad to leave it with no shims in it for a while while I take them all out, and order new ones to put in, or would that screw up my lifters?

No, not really. It depends on how you removed the shims because you'd have to remove both of the cams to take out all of the shims at once.

The cam lobes are not ever supposed to even come into contact with the valve bucket itself without a shim.

Turning the crankshaft multiple times and dragging the cam lobes across the valve buckets to remove all eight valve shims would not be a good idea.

DOES ANYONE MAKE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS FOR THESE?! hahaha

LMAO! YOU WISH!

.

[Dylano*]

Pretty close, but don't use a magnet:

With the cam lobe off of the shim, you rotate the valve bucket until you see the notch in the valve bucket.

If you manage to get the valve adjusting tool to work then use a small screwdriver or a pick inserted into the notch in the valve bucket and under the shim to pop out the shim.

If you use a magnet to remove the shim you can magnetize the shim. If the shim gets magnetized it'll stick to the cam lobe and eventually wear down the lobe.



No, not really. It depends on how you removed the shims because you'd have to remove both of the cams to take out all of the shims at once.

The cam lobes are not ever supposed to even come into contact with the valve bucket itself without a shim.

Turning the crankshaft multiple times and dragging the cam lobes across the valve buckets to remove all eight valve shims would not be a good idea.



LMAO! YOU WISH!

.

Damn... Then I don't know how I'm going to do my valves!
I really don't want to pull the cams...

I was hoping I could pull all the shims the rotating by hand way, but if that will mess up the cam, or lifters idk what to do!

Dude I know in town with a shop says he'd adjust my valves for $200-$300...
I might tell him that if he will do it for $200 then OK but if not I'll do it myself.

The big problem I have is that in order to know what shims to order, as they are expensive, I need to take mine out. but I can't take mine all out at once without removing the cams! DANG! haha

I'll be giving that guy a call tomorrow...
Or maybe I'll just cruise by there next Friday or somethinnn

Yeah wouldn't hydraulic lifters be SO much easier! hahaha

[Dylano*]

ALSO
Wouldn't it not matter if the shim is magnetized since they are the ones I'm not gonna use??