Potential new project

[James England]

James, you do amazing work! I am sure even if it doesn't run perfectly when you get it reassembled, you will have it figured out and running like a dream soon enough!

Are you splurging on the stainless exhaust again?

Ah! I feel a bit reassured now, thanks! yes, I think for an accurate rebuild, I'll have to splurge on another replica system. I was thinking of putting an old one, anything, just to get the bike running and then add the expensive one later........

I'm on with the wiring loom now...... Pray for me!

[natemoen]

James, you do amazing work! I am sure even if it doesn't run perfectly when you get it reassembled, you will have it figured out and running like a dream soon enough!

Are you splurging on the stainless exhaust again?

[James England]

looking great james!

thanks. I'm having a few heeby geebies about the bike running after all this work! I keep consoling myself that it ran when I got it, albeit with one blocked jet in a carb. So, I'm taking it steady, check everything as I do it and mentally preparing myself for teething troubles once it's all up and put back together! Self-confidence issues are the bane of my life occasionally!!!

[jjz28]

looking great james!

[Rasputin]

Similar but not the same process mine does. Will it turn into a flat working table, or maybe a spot for your new favorite tool? Will it do a 12HP lawnmower engine? Will it lift horizontally as well as vertically? Just some questions I have to see if I should proceed? Will it accept add on's. Can you use it if not busy changing motors etc. Can you put in a freshly painted engine with it? I hope the powers that be see it my way and I get granted the patent.

[xs650man]

Not quite an Eleven but its little brother, the 650. For a start the 1.1 is probably twice the weight and a bit more awkward but Im going to give it a go with a beefier crane and modified rig.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Rasputin,
I look forward to the unveiling of your ingenuity
Phil

[Rasputin]

James. I would love to show some pics of it. As I am patent pending I can now disclose and no one can steal it or sell it here. I think it is best I do not show it online yet though.
Problem is I am only patent pending in the USA and Canada so far. To get international patent pending will cost an additional $5,000 per English speaking country and $8,000 per non English country due to translations etc. Those are cost estimates from my lawyer, so that could change.
That said I will sit tight for a while longer to see how the process goes. As soon as I am comfortable enough I will post it on this site first. Participation on this forum is the reason I built it and without the members here it never would have been an idea I would have formed.

[James England]

This engine removing machine picked up that engine we had just removed from Enterprise and lifted it onto the workbench. Runs on beer.




John

Impressive, but it's an engine replacement without bashing the frame machine that's really needed. Would an increase in beer intake facilitate that, do you think?

[jwhughes3]

Tod is a machine!



This engine removing machine picked up that engine we had just removed from Enterprise and lifted it onto the workbench. Runs on beer.




John

[James England]

Do you have pix of your engine removal system then? Or do you have to keep it under wraps whilst it's patent pending?? I'd be curious to see it!

[Rasputin]

I've often wondered how Yamaha got the engines into the frames in the factory and made what I think is the mistaken assumption that they built a whole engine and somehow plonked it in there. Now, I reckon they put partial engines in and then added all the other bits afterwards.

Looking Good James!
I highly doubt that they put them in without most of it assembled already. If I can spend about 200 bucks and make a machine that will lift the engine out and reinstall it complete (although I usually take the oil filter cover off for a wee bit more wiggle room), then I am sure those Japanese fellows have a really good one.
On a full dresser I just have to remove tank, carbs and airbox, exhaust and anything that is attached to the engine mount bolts. Any wiring is disconnected and drive shaft bolts are out. The Fairing must at least be tipped forward but removed is preferred.
Once everything is out of the way except for the actual mount bolts, I can slide in, hook up and remove an engine in 2 1/2 minutes by myself, as long as the mount bolts are free enough to come out easily. Engine paint on install is not a problem due to the way it gets hooked up.
I am actually Patent Pending on this idea and it works ever so smooth.
So if I can make one work after a few beers worth of thinking, I am sure those big budget factories have it all in hand. [/QUOTE]

[James England]

Another little update

Well, folks, I've made some more progress on the current project and thought I'd post a few pix.

I got the engine blasted and repainted using VHT engine enamel. It needs heat to cure so I was able to bake the smaller, removable components in the oven. For the crankcases, barrels and head, I placed two electric fan heaters next to the engine and heated it up for approx 24 hours (I'm not looking forward to my next electricity bill).

I had some reservations about getting the engine back into the frame but it was dead easy because I'd removed loads of components. No middle gearbox, sump, oil filter housing and cam cover made life easy and I just lowered the frame onto the engine which I'd placed on its side. I've often wondered how Yamaha got the engines into the frames in the factory and made what I think is the mistaken assumption that they built a whole engine and somehow plonked it in there. Now, I reckon they put partial engines in and then added all the other bits afterwards.

I then got the forks, swing arm and wheels on so that I can trundle the bike about whilst continuing with the project.

So here's a few pix of the progress....

[3Phase]

Better Living Through Chemistry

James,

Drop all of the parts -- everything -- in Evapo-Rust, then just walk away and let it soak overnight. The restoration refinishing you did looks better but the Evapo-Rust made the OEM parts look good -- really good!

Motoman and I did this on his '81 Venturer and worked well, even brightened up the faded and oxidized plastic parts. It hands down beat scrubbing and digging out dirt and old grease.

Rinse the parts in warm water after they've soaked, allow them to dry, then grease and reassemble and it's ready for another thirty years.

.

[James England]

Dang, James! That looks good!

Thanks! The decal on the MC lid is actually a modern replica. Apart from improving the appearance, it's worth doing a refurb on the switches because they feel so nice to use afterwards. The indicator switch particularly. If anyone is contemplating doing their switches, I'd recommend using a camera, phone, ipad or whatever and take pix of the innards of each switch as it's stripped. I didn't do this and stripped the two switches at the same time. The result was a load of bits, springs etc. Fortunately, I'm pretty good at puzzles and got them back tether correctly but if would have been easier with a visual record.

One point...the engine kill switch, easily removed from the inside of the switch casing, was very cruddy and the terminals were terrible. I can see how this switch should be the first suspect in any dead ignition investigation. It also contains a tiny spring and ball bearing (or maybe even two, I can't remember), so you have to be careful when stripping it.

The blinker switch is quite a mechanical affair involving that sliding and pushing to cancel. The mechanism is just metal to metal with a screw and washer, so lack of lube at this point made mine stiff and unpleasant to operate. I actually removed the OEM plating from the metal parts and re-galvanised them. Then a small amount of grease applied the correct places. The difference now is amazing. Same goes for the lights on/off and the dip/main switches..they have a certain amount of mechanical-ness to them which benefits from cleaning and lubing.

By the way..you can see the angles on the handlebars. These are the 'Euro' bars which were fitted to the E and F models here. The shape is quite unique and they are extremely difficult to get hold of now. The idea was that the bars and all the Euro bits I mentioned in another post, make for an ergonomic riding position with less lower back and wrist strain. Yamaha harped on about this when the bike was first introduced and it actually does make a difference. I used to ride 350 miles to Scotland three or four times a year when younger and the riding position certainly helped.

On with the engine casings today......then the main body of the crankcases, cylinders and head... Pix later!