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Just wondering James, all of you are welcome to join in with your opinions, please.
I find that the see through blue fuel line I've always used from the MC shop is turning green and brittle.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? TIA Don'e
I've found several different types of fuel line do that, or go hard and inflexible. The internally braided types do that a lot. I always use neoprene fuel line only. It's flexible and stays that way, I've found.
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
on a great looking restoration. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thank you!
I must confess, I'm relieved that the engine runs so well, after spending a lot of time and money on the cosmetic side of things. I was in a bit of cleft stick when I bought the bike; it was only running on three cylinders but it was going to cost quite a bit to fix the running problems because the inlet manifolds were bad, hoses, vacuum lines, manifold blanking plugs all perished...coils looked very dodgy etc etc. It had so many problems that it didn't seem worthwhile fixing all that lot first, just to see if it was worth going further, so I kind of took a calculated risk and just got stuck into stripping it all and getting on with it. Ideally, it would have been nice to have had a perfectly running bike that just looked terrible. So, throughout this restoration, I've always had a little gremlin telling me "you're gonna spend loads and then find out you have a nice looking bike that doesn't work"!
So, having replaced coils, leads, plugs, put in an ACCT, blasted and painted the engine, powder coated the frame, rechroming, brake overhaul, valve shims, fuse box replacement, wiring loom strip and clean and all the other hundreds of things that one has to do on a neglected old bike, I'm really pleased that the engine sounds so good and behaves in such a civilised fashion. The carb thing rattled me a bit but it was sooo gratifying to get the problems sorted out, have the bike start and run well immediately and then sync the carbs and have an engine that sounds like it should. Mucho relief
I took the old oil and filter out tonight and the oil was surprisingly clean after all that's been done. I ran the engine through the gearbox, on the centre stand, to get all the gears churning. Soda blasting gets everywhere, even when things are plugged up but the good thing about it is that, unlike grit blasting, it doesn't harm internal components if it gets in there (which it did). Having said that, it still needs to be flushed out so I ran the engine and gearbox with a fan blowing at the engine and then drained the oil.
The final stage now is to get the tank etc back, install the fuel sender, fix on the seat cowl and metal trims. the trims can be bought here new now, and also the fitting kit for them....little triangular things with bolts on them. I've already rebuilt the fuel taps (this model does not have that dreaded octy thing, thankfully).
All the electrics are fully working, including the charging system, so that's another relief.
I should be getting the tank etc back next week some time, so I'll post an update with the final stages of the rebuild!
In the meantime, I can't resist posting this again........the 'before' pic....looking at this pic, I'm surprised I even started it
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
Just wondering James, all of you are welcome to join in with your opinions, please.
I find that the see through blue fuel line I've always used from the MC shop is turning green and brittle.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? TIA Don'e
Hi Done, if you don't mind the transluscent yellow color of Tygon, it's supposed to stay flexible and I believe is Ethanol proof.
My '80G is fitted with it now and I'll be using it on the rest of my bikes as I bought 20 feet of it from Murdock
James,
Since I've been here, this makes three! That's two XS1100's and a lovely GL1000. I for one, had complete confidence in you. My expectations run high and you deliver! This one has gone quickly. What's next?
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
I've used the yellow in the past but bought the last 10 ft. of blue at the local Yam. dealer. Don't remember having any problem with yellow and if I member it was harder to kink.
Saw that black stuff James was using and thought I'd ask.
Thanks !
A rest! I suppose I'll keep my eye out for another E or F model...boringly predictable.
The XS pic you posted was when I'd had a stainless system made for the bike. He didn't bevel the end of the silencers and they were just straight through with wadding...far too noisy. So I immediately took the system off and was lucky to sell it for what I paid for it. I just couldn't live with the appearance!
Here's the bevel...
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
I've used the yellow in the past but bought the last 10 ft. of blue at the local Yam. dealer. Don't remember having any problem with yellow and if I member it was harder to kink.
Saw that black stuff James was using and thought I'd ask.
Thanks !
I like the tygon stuff that stays flexible, but I warn everyone that nothing lasts forever. The non-braided lines like I used can eventually split and of course that can be a real hazard. I will continue using it because it is easier to remove from the nipples for replacement. I bought the line from a Yamaha shop (Not sure if it is "tygon" but it looks/feels like it).
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
A rest! I suppose I'll keep my eye out for another E or F model...boringly predictable.
You might have to make one ratty enough to give it a good thrashing from time to time. You might get caught in the rain! Your attention to detail with these bikes is impeccable.
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
I like the tygon stuff that stays flexible, but I warn everyone that nothing lasts forever. The non-braided lines like I used can eventually split and of course that can be a real hazard. I will continue using it because it is easier to remove from the nipples for replacement. I bought the line from a Yamaha shop (Not sure if it is "tygon" but it looks/feels like it).
It's probably the same stuff I'm using. Black is one of the available colors and it is tygon. It stays flexible over the long haul. I found that I had to watch the bends as it will kink if you aren't careful.
Back to James' bike.
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
You might have to make one ratty enough to give it a good thrashing from time to time. You might get caught in the rain! Your attention to detail with these bikes is impeccable.
Well, I do thrash the XJR1300 virtually every day, although not for a few days now as it's been bucketing down with rain.
This rebuild has been more leisurely than the last one because I have the XJR to ride. Last time, I didn't get much riding time because the bike was off the road so much..
I just bid on another XS1100 on eBay! Its rough though and missing OEM parts and the buy it now price is ludicrously high. I'll do like I did last time and scout about on eBay until I get something realistic. It's so much harder to find them here than for you in the USA and, as a result, they cost so much mor.
This time, I'll have to resist the urge to sell 'Black Beauty II' on eBay!
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
James you really need to do a step by step. Just a note on each part as you tackle it, or maybe a short video, 1 through a thousand. I think we all would like to know how you take a pizza chit and turn it into a delicacy. Or have you done this already somewhere here I have not seen.
You have set the bar high, so high many of us don't know where to start, hows about a hand up ? ? ? You and some others here are the men, maybe a group project ? Even some of us little guys might have something to add ?
James you really need to do a step by step. Just a note on each part as you tackle it, or maybe a short video, 1 through a thousand. I think we all would like to know how you take a pizza chit and turn it into a delicacy. Or have you done this already somewhere here I have not seen.
You have set the bar high, so high many of us don't know where to start, hows about a hand up ? ? ? You and some others here are the men, maybe a group project ? Even some of us little guys might have something to add ?
Well, that's very flattering, thank you, Done. I've kind of added pix and a little update to this thread as I progressed with each stage of things, so most of it is here already. Also, I documented the last rebuild about 4 years ago in another thread.
I appreciate that doing this kind of thing is not everyone's cup of tea though. It is expensive and time-consuming but I just have a thing about the XS1100 and feel it's worth it. But that is no disrespect to those many examples of these bikes in not as good condition cosmetically. I mean, having them like I do them isn't obligatory. I'd only do this on comparatively low mileage examples too, less than 40,000 miles. My own peculiar mission statement on these is to get the bikes looking brand-new....or thereabouts. Although I will ride this one and did so with the last one, I wouldn't plan on clocking up tens of thousands of miles on them, mainly because it would be sad to watch them go downhill (metaphorically) after all that slog! I use the XJR for that. So, they aren't exactly museum pieces (which wouldn't need to run at all) but aren't a bike to be taken out in the rain, snow and salt... if you see what I mean?
We have an annual bike rally in the town where I live and there were 10,000 bikes last year. I put the last XS1100 outside and it was interesting to hear it described as "old school", "a classic, but it can't be as it's obviously new" and "I've never seen one of those". A great comparison with the impact it made when it was the world's fastest production bike!!
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
Here's my first attempt at uploading a video.......... video taken with an iPad...bike inside workshop......
Oops a few problems... back with another in a minute
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
Here they are again... hopefully working this time..... I have to keep them short as the iPad won't send bigger files...
This first one is a cold start with the choke on first position
This one shows the choke taken off and normal running....
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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