Carb help!

[cajun31]

float needles and seats

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yama...100lg/?filters[fitting]=custom

[DGXSER]

The best way to get those plugs out is to drill a small hole in them (just until you break though, deeper will damage the jets) then screw a small sheet metal screw into them. Use the screw to carefully pry them out.

I have to disagree with this one. Only because I just did this in December and I broke out the tower prying on the stupid thing. MY suggestion is to drill them out. Use progressively larger bits. Mark the depth on the bit so you do not make contact with the screw inside there. When you get about 3/4 the dia of the plug, it should spin on the bit. Then you can pull it out easily.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I have to disagree with this one. Only because I just did this in December and I broke out the tower prying on the stupid thing. MY suggestion is to drill them out. Use progressively larger bits. Mark the depth on the bit so you do not make contact with the screw inside there. When you get about 3/4 the dia of the plug, it should spin on the bit. Then you can pull it out easily.

Do this. That screw technique will cause you to break off a tower and it makes the carbs look like crap. If you have access to a drill press, go get some pilot bits and progressively larger reamers (as they have a flat head to them so it will bore through the cap and not overshoot to the top of your screw thus damaging the threads). That is what I did and it worked out great but it did take quite a bit of time because I was being extra careful.

[skids]

I have to disagree with this one. Only because I just did this in December and I broke out the tower prying on the stupid thing. MY suggestion is to drill them out. Use progressively larger bits. Mark the depth on the bit so you do not make contact with the screw inside there. When you get about 3/4 the dia of the plug, it should spin on the bit. Then you can pull it out easily.

The same thing happened to me. The broken piece was above the idle screws so it really didn't matter unless you wanted to put some sort of seal above those. That metal is soft AND brittle. I am sure that I don't have the mechanic's touch like Steve has.

[crazy steve]

I am sure that I don't have the mechanic's touch like Steve has.

Geez, when did I turn into 'Mr. Finesse'....

[motoman]

As Steve stated, just a tiny hole enough to start a small sheet metal screw. A pair of pliers popping the tin cover straight up without prying works fine with no casting damage.

Also, those main jets in carby in pic ARE in fact RD's. Might wanna have a closer look at the pic again. Not saying they would necessarily cause a smooth running issue, as RD main jets are really close in hole size to Genuine Mikuni. Now, if they were K&L jets, there's definitely going to be a running isssue somewhere in the rpm range, a stumble, pop,bog,etc. K&L sizing and method thereof is not even close to Mikuni sizing.
The only check I've done to verify this was take one of my 'never before chucked' drill bits, using the 'chuck' side it was a perect fit thru a 110Mikuni. Same numbered size K&L main jet rocked back and forth on the drill bit like a floppy ole' wagon wheel. That's substantual differnence in hole size! IMO, least two step sizes.

Would be curious to see a pic of one of the pilot jets for correct no. of holes. Would take a magnifying glass for me to see sizing and Mikuni logo on them tho.

[Schming]

As Steve stated, just a tiny hole enough to start a small sheet metal screw. A pair of pliers popping the tin cover straight up without prying works fine with no casting damage.

Also, those main jets in carby in pic ARE in fact RD's.

Yep, exactly the way I removed mine from my Hitachi's on my XJ 750.

But, this:



Doesn't look anything like these:

[motoman]

Well, that lettering caught my attention immediately on that pictured jet. I have some of the RD main jets, and even a set that are marked 115's like his pictured. The letter stamping is also spaced wide apart the same. Last letter almost looks like an R also, but know there is no aftermarket jetting RR that I've ever heard of. Fairly positive they are RD. Definitely not G. Mikuni having no Miky logo.

[LoHo]

"You are laughing now, but trust me, you will be glad you did."

+1 on the glasses. Usually, the only clear passages are the ones pointing at your face when you spray carb cleaner into an opening.

[Schming]

Genuine Mikuni Logo:







. . . and quit winking at me your making me nervous.

[LoHo]

"Geez, when did I turn into 'Mr. Finesse'.... "

Maybe just compared to some..."Get the BIG hammer, Joe, this jet is in there TIGHT!"

[Prisoner6]

Genuine Mikuni Logo:







. . . and quit winking at me your making me nervous.

Yep ... in the second photo, the Mikuni logo is visible at about the 11:00 position.

[motoman]

Stand corrected Schming.

[Schming]

Stand corrected Schming.

We're good bud

Here, we all strive for accuracy, and while I'm checkin' you, someone else is checkin' me, God knows I need a checkin'

Our tireless dedication to these "Super Bikes" will ensure our grandkids kids will enjoy them further on up the road.

Glad to be a part of it.