Carb help!

[ESJr1642]

I would suggest you pick up 4, sealable dishes to keep the parts with the correct carbs as well. You can number them with a marker 1-4 so that everything goes back into the card body it came out of.

As others have said, read the carb cleaning 101 over 2-3 times before you get too far into it. Take your time and make sure every passage is clean, and be sure to wear safety glasses... You are laughing now, but trust me, you will be glad you did.


Ernie

[Eastcoaster]

Take your time

Take your time one step at a time If something is stuck or hard to remove Just ask take pix and the team will get you through it This is a slow process and worth every minute Be careful Patience Patience Patience. Watch the posts on the floats if you cant get the pins out ask I tap them out with an awl carefully and light taps but lots of other ways do not force them they will come out the posts break easily be careful

Keep us informed every step of the way I just spent a frustrating month on this see "what am I missing" Thread but I got it and running like a dream

[skids]

Separating the carbs from the bracket is over-rated in my opinion (I'm gonna hear about this!) Make sure that the orings are good. Make sure that the pivots of the floats on the float axles are free-moving. Make sure that the fuel valves are sealing when the floats are "closing off" fuel flow. Check the floats against leakage by blowing into the fuel supply with the "bank-o-carbs" upside down. You can really do a lot with spray carb cleaner as a first step before deciding if you need a complete disassembly.

[crazy steve]

BEFORE.....YES BEFORE you try to remove any of the jets or internal parts, read the carb cleaning thread over and over. Also..BEFORE you try to remove the parts, get some PB Blaster and spray down every single part. Soak it well first. Then use a screw driver that fits the jets TIGHTLY. That will keep you from tearing up the jets instead of stripping the slots out.

+3....

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36017

[H4rdcore]

All this advice is amazing...

I managed to tear down all 4 with actually no problems at all..these carbs must have been rebuilt or just cleaned before dad put it away a year ago.
It was actually so easy...now i just need to grab some cleaner tomorrow and lettem soak..

[D0wn5h1ft]

I would say if they are apart you should replace the butterfly shaft seals because when you dip them they will eat away those seals and you'll get vacuum leaks galore.

[cajun31]

if he is well enough

Ask your dad what he knows about the bike as far as the carbs go etc... that is if he is not too sick. I lost my dad to cancer back in 92 and I know how things progress with that so I am only telling you to ask if he is able or wants to converse about it. What knowledge you gain from him concerning the bike will aid you in your decisions on how far you need to go with your repairs. While you have the carbs apart it would be nice if you knew how old the float needles are. they have rubber on the end of them and even if recently replaced they are a small investment to make now so you won't have to worry about them later. It doesn't sound like you will need full blown carb rebuild kits but the float needles and seats are a small price to pay for riding time down the road. Sounds like you have things well in hand. I hope you get her on the road soon.

[bikerphil]

Yamaha dealer sells a carb soak product for about $10 that will not harm any rubber parts like the conventional type will.

[BA80]

I would say if they are apart you should replace the butterfly shaft seals because when you dip them they will eat away those seals and you'll get vacuum leaks galore.

I've never had to replace those seals and I use the Gumout dip on all of the carbs I've done. If you leave them in there for days rather than hours maybe but it won't hurt them normally. The only time I've separated the carbs is if one of the bodies needed replacing.

[motoman]

I notice the main jets are RD and not Genuine Mikuni, so fingers have been into those carbs previously.

[BA80]

Good eye Brant, the pilots are probably wrong also.

[Schming]

I notice the main jets are RD and not Genuine Mikuni, so fingers have been into those carbs previously.

CMIIW, Looks like the Mikuni symbol to me.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CC0Q9QEwAw

[Prisoner6]

That 3rd photo in H4rdcore's #9 post in this thread definitely looks like a Genuine Mikuni main jet.

[cajun31]

what downshift said

H4rdcore, I know the drill press comment confused you. Me too at first because the pictures you have posted do not show whether you still have the factory installed plugs on the idle mixture screws or not. If you have the carbs right side up looking at them from the engine side you will see a tube above each butterfly. In those tubes on the 80 and 81 carbs, I know for sure, there were small metal round plugs covering a screw underneath. If you have taken the time to look at the carb 101 cleaning thread or the video posted here the idle mixture screw is discussed. If the plugs are still present that is where the drill press would come in handy to carefully and I do mean carefully to drill those plugs out. Once you have cleaned the carbs you may or may not have to adjust those screws for a proper idle. If they haven't been touched then they may be ok at their present settings.

[crazy steve]

The best way to get those plugs out is to drill a small hole in them (just until you break though, deeper will damage the jets) then screw a small sheet metal screw into them. Use the screw to carefully pry them out.

When you remove the needle jets, there will be a small spring, a really tiny washer, and a o-ring. The washers will probably have to be fished out of the hole and are hard to replace unless you buy a complete rebuild kit, so don't lose them.