Exhaust header stud removal

[James England]

James, having so much thread protruding beyond the nut is not good practice, besides looking really untidy, the general standard for avoiding corrosion problems, as in having the protruding thread corrode making nut removal difficult is a maximum of two threads, the best practice is no threads protruding but full nut engagement. Another issue is thread damage for threads protruding far too much, this makes nut removal difficult too. As these exhaust studs are known for corrosion I'd recommend removing all the studs to shorten them, now you know what length you need them to be. And yes I had to do the same thing

Once shortened you could use Acorn nuts, SOOOO much better looking.



Sorry to pick up on things like this, its an affliction I have.

I know what you mean re appearance and there's no need to apologise for your attention to detail! Also it's an important point you make re corrosion of protruding threads and the use of acorn nuts. The corrosion thing isn't a problem in this case though as the studs, nuts and flanges are all titanium. I did want to leave a bit of margin because I replaced the OEM flange gaskets with copper ones which came with my stainless pipes and I wasn't sure how long the studs needed to be. In fact, they are 5mm longer than OEM because the bulge in the middle is 10mm, not 5mm.

I may get the hacksaw out but...that would mean removing them and I'm kind of all studded out mentally at the moment!

[James England]

Dang, keep forgetting this is your XJR. Disregard the German S/S exhaust comment.

ill be posting re an XS1100 soon, I hope! The titanium flanges for the XJR were made here in the UK by Ralph at www.componentengineering.co.uk.

He's looking into making titanium axles for me at the moment although I'm not sure if titanium would be strong/safe enough. I don't want to find out the hard way.

Very flattering re your proposed colour scheme. The replica decals are available in the UK but they ship worldwide. They go under the lacquer and are authentic...eg the double pinstripe on an XS has one line slightly wider than the other etc

[James England]

I'll be using your black beauty UK engine paint scheme as my guide for doing my engine over the winter..

The European XS came with black engine as standard. 25 years ago, I discovered PJ1 Satin Black Case Paint and was impressed. It's 99% like the original and every bit as durable. Then, last year, the European Union banned it! Something to do with pollution. They are the people who regulated the shape of bananas, amongst other stupid things. But, you can still buy it in the US. I've even tried to get someone to mail me some but there is a problem with aerosols in planes.

Components are better being warmed in an oven, degreased and scrupulously clean. Stick the aerosol in very hot water, fully submerged for about 15 minutes..not boiling though and do it outside, just in case. Build up the paint in thin coats (I usually do four coats), leaving enough time for the coat to dry before applying the next one, and you'll get a factory finish. The paint is touch dry are an hour or so but takes 24 hours to harden fully. It is amazing stuff and sticks to plastic, alloy etc. On old Black Beauty, I did the clock housings, side casings, even the wheels.

[fredintoon]

- - - He's looking into making titanium axles for me at the moment although I'm not sure if titanium would be strong/safe enough. I don't want to find out the hard way. - - -

Hi James,
Grade 5 Titanium alloys are as strong as good steel.
Also, get the axles drilled through as a further weight saving. The middle of an axle don't do much for it's strength except in tension, eh?

[motoman]

I know what you mean re appearance and there's no need to apologise for your attention to detail! Also it's an important point you make re corrosion of protruding threads and the use of acorn nuts. The corrosion thing isn't a problem in this case though as the studs, nuts and flanges are all titanium. I did want to leave a bit of margin because I replaced the OEM flange gaskets with copper ones which came with my stainless pipes and I wasn't sure how long the studs needed to be. In fact, they are 5mm longer than OEM because the bulge in the middle is 10mm, not 5mm.

I may get the hacksaw out but...that would mean removing them and I'm kind of all studded out mentally at the moment!

Can always Dremal cut-off wheel them flush without removal.

[TomB]

I'm kind of all studded out mentally at the moment!

Better to do them now rather than later, at least that way you'll know they'll come out easily. And if you leave them you'll look at those long studs every time you go near the bike, they'll grate at you.

If you cut them off in situ and use acorn nuts you don't have to do too neat a job.

Sorry, its a desease but think how cool the'll look when done, finish the job perfectly.

[James England]

Better to do them now rather than later, at least that way you'll know they'll come out easily. And if you leave them you'll look at those long studs every time you go near the bike, they'll grate at you.

If you cut them off in situ and use acorn nuts you don't have to do too neat a job.

Sorry, its a desease but think how cool the'll look when done, finish the job perfectly.

I think the titanium will last longer than I will, so I'll not need to take them out in the future...

Re cosmetics...never let it be said that I don't listen and value feedback!

[James England]

Hi James,
Grade 5 Titanium alloys are as strong as good steel.
Also, get the axles drilled through as a further weight saving. The middle of an axle don't do much for it's strength except in tension, eh?

That's good to know. All the parts he's made for me are Grade 5. The OEM axles, including the swing arm spindle, are all hollow. I'm sending him the front axle (I just bought it on eBay for £1) to copy, then he's doing the rear axle and at after that the swing arm spindle. I don't want to bombard him with too much at one go!

[TomB]

Beautiful!! you have to admit they do look loads better now.


Axles? I made replacement wheel axles for a motocrosser, it was a big 450cc thing, can't remember what bike, and he was a stocky bloke, he'd snapped the originals, so I thought I'd go strong, made them out of top grade Carrs KE970 toolsteel but left unhardened, thought they'd be tough as hell and lasted one race DOH!!

The next set I made out of Freecutting Mild Steel, they lasted better than any others, saw him in the pub years later and he was still using them, he never came back with them broke so as far as I know they're still going strong or lasted as long as the bike did.

Dunno if that helps, maybe as a reference to strength comparisons.

[TomB]

I can't help thinking if bike weight is an issue why you didn't buy a bike like the FZ1 or FZ1S, they're a R1 engined bike tuned for mid range grunt and upright seating position so not a Sport bike.

[James England]

I can't help thinking if bike weight is an issue why you didn't buy a bike like the FZ1 or FZ1S, they're a R1 engined bike tuned for mid range grunt and upright seating position so not a Sport bike.

its not an issue as such, really. I like the look and performance of the XJR1300, also its physical size which I'm more than capable of handling. But, having bought one, I thought I would reduce its weight but keep it looking like an XJR1300 (mostly). Yes, if I'd wanted a lighter bike, there are several to choose from but I really wanted an XJR. Also, reducing its weight has been fun! And an interesting experiment into just how much better one can make a standard bike, without turning it into one of those bobber things.

That way, I get a bike I like, improve its handling a lot, have fun and do it myself instead of just buying something ready made.