Originally posted by James England
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Exhaust header stud removal
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Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Sorry, that was a bit misleading.nthey don't have a manufacturers website but they are available here. They're expensive but a lovely piece of engineering. Two of them weigh approx the same as one OEM wheel.
http://japan.webike.net/bm/brd/Wheel...PEED/1094/251/
Here's a pic of the 'stud from hell'. I'm still amazed it came out at all...
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Job done
Got the new studs into their cleaned out and undamaged holes in the head. Here's some pix with the Ti studs and flanges and stainless headers. It's amazing how a simple job can become so complicated. I'm pleased that I persevered and it's reassuring to know that all studs have now been replaced with a liberal coating of anti-seize. You can see the frame cradle tube which obscures the stud on number three cylinder.
Having got the bike back together I almost started the engine with no oil in it! I had removed the oil cooler in order to get at the stud. That is what happens when working when too tired!
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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I have to say James, you do good work and it always looks great!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostI have to say James, you do good work and it always looks great!
Here's some pix with the belly pan and oil cooler back on...
Last edited by James England; 11-01-2013, 04:22 PM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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It does look bent, didn't notice that. Weird!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by James England View Postof course it does. Like I said in my post, the bike handles completely differently and its a huge improvement. Like a different bike...faster, lighter and completely different from before.
Dumbells, cement...whatever 60lbs=60lbs....permanently removed. It's 12% of the dry weight of the bike.2-79 XS1100 SF
2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
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Originally posted by Rasputin View PostI think, possibly the point he was trying to make is sprung or unsprung weight which makes a huge difference in handling of any vehicle.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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James, having so much thread protruding beyond the nut is not good practice, besides looking really untidy, the general standard for avoiding corrosion problems, as in having the protruding thread corrode making nut removal difficult is a maximum of two threads, the best practice is no threads protruding but full nut engagement. Another issue is thread damage for threads protruding far too much, this makes nut removal difficult too. As these exhaust studs are known for corrosion I'd recommend removing all the studs to shorten them, now you know what length you need them to be. And yes I had to do the same thing
Once shortened you could use Acorn nuts, SOOOO much better looking.
Sorry to pick up on things like this, its an affliction I have.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Of course if you thought that is really an issue you could install the longer nuts or double the nuts. I have 4 xs11s and none had acorn nuts on the head pipes.
No problems wit corrosion here in the Denver area but we don't have the salty air that you Brits haveSkids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by TomB View PostJames, having so much thread protruding beyond the nut is not good practice, besides looking really untidy, the general standard for avoiding corrosion problems, as in having the protruding thread corrode making nut removal difficult is a maximum of two threads, the best practice is no threads protruding but full nut engagement. Another issue is thread damage for threads protruding far too much, this makes nut removal difficult too. As these exhaust studs are known for corrosion
Aesthetics only here.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
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I looked at those pics full-on, and think it looks great the way it is. I dunno if those are UK OEM exhaust flanges or not, but I like the looks of that whole setup. On second thought, those are probably the flanges from that expensive German S/S system you bought, ehh? I'll be using your black beauty UK engine paint scheme as my guide for doing my engine over the winter.
Dang, keep forgetting this is your XJR. Disregard the German S/S exhaust comment.Last edited by IanDMacDonald; 11-03-2013, 08:00 AM.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostI looked at those pics full-on, and think it looks great the way it is. I dunno if those are UK OEM exhaust flanges or not, but I like the looks of that whole setup. On second thought, those are probably the flanges from that expensive German S/S system you bought, ehh? I'll be using your black beauty UK engine paint scheme as my guide for doing my engine over the winter.
Dang, keep forgetting this is your XJR. Disregard the German S/S exhaust comment.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostI don't think there will be much of a corrosion issue with titanium studs.......or even much of a problem with thread damage.
Aesthetics only here.
I agree on the aesthetics, they would look way better the right length.
C'mon James, don't let the side down!Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Originally posted by James England View Post- - - Here's a pic of the 'stud from hell'. I'm still amazed it came out at all... - - -
the pic came out great. You can even read the paper the stud is laying on.
It appears to be a legal document. Stay away from lawyers! Remember Dickens Jarndice vs Jarndice?
BTW, about weight saving; years ago a fellow apprentice raced Formula Bantam. (before your time, a poor boys racing class. You were limited to using a 125cc BSA Bantam engine. Worked fine as an intro class until the money boys moved in.)
His major tune-up trick was to lose 40lbs before the season started.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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