Exhaust header stud removal

[MaximPhil]

Hi Tom,
Thanks for the advice. I already have the SS connector nuts and checking find they are A2-70 grade. I will have to speak to my supplier and see if he can supply A4. Thanks for the reminder about galling.
Have not seen copperslip for sale here for many years but do have a small amount left in a tube.
Phil

[IanDMacDonald]

Any reason why I can't use some tupe of nut and washer with these studs if I ever lose an acorn nut? Can those nuts be bought elsewhere bedides online?

[skids]

You can. You can even use a headed bolt instead of a stud and nut if clearance is an issue with the head pipe. Never had a problem...knock on wood!

[IanDMacDonald]

Only issue I see is cracking the head overtightening the bolt. And since I have never torqued exhaust nuts after tightening them with a t-handle allen wrench . . .

[TomB]

Here ya go, bloody expensive stuff on your side of the pond real cheap over here

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...seize&_sacat=0

[TomB]

Any reason why I can't use some tupe of nut and washer with these studs if I ever lose an acorn nut? Can those nuts be bought elsewhere bedides online?

On cars I've used brass nuts on stainless exhaust studs where they ain't seen, I don't like the look on a bike.

Any M8 nut will do if you're short of one if you can get it in, OK on a flat collar, difficult on standard XS1100 counterbored collars.

More ebay... http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ut+A4&_sacat=0

[James England]

Hi James,
apart from the bragging rights, what's the advantage in using titanium studs instead of steel ones?

For me. Fred, it's weight reduction. I've replaced all the ferrous fasteners on the bike with Ti, including engine mounting bolts, tubes, Allen bolts, exhaust flanges, nuts etc , some clutch components etc etc. also the crankcase bolts. That, and the use of forged alloy wheels, has reduced the weight of the bike by 27kg...about 60lbs whilst keeping it looking standard. The bike is much faster and the handling is incomparably better. Forged wheels have much less gyroscopic effect because they are lighter and thinner and this affects handling too. It's like a different bike. I mean 60lbs is more than a bag of cement...try picking one up and that's how much lighter the bike is.....

The exhaust studs have bugged me for a while as they were the last ferrous fasteners on the bike and most vulnerable. So, that's why Ti, Fred and, as I hope you know, bragging doesn't come into it! Those studs will look lovely with the Ti header flanges too!

[James England]

Hi Tom,
Thanks for the advice. I already have the SS connector nuts and checking find they are A2-70 grade. I will have to speak to my supplier and see if he can supply A4. Thanks for the reminder about galling.
Have not seen copperslip for sale here for many years but do have a small amount left in a tube.
Phil

Our family business sells copper slip. Also aluminium anti-seize, in tubes or 500ml tins. If you want any, let me know. I could send it by airmail small packet....

[MaximPhil]

Our family business sells copper slip. Also aluminium anti-seize, in tubes or 500ml tins. If you want any, let me know. I could send it by airmail small packet....

Hi Tom what is the advantage of copper over aluminium anti seize in this application? Aluminum version is readily available here.
Phil

[IanDMacDonald]

Yeah, but is 60lbs evenly distributed over the bike really change the ride dynamics that much? Picking a 60 lb. Bag of concrete, and a 60 lb. Dumbell are two different tasks.

[XS1100carbon]

Wheels

Jame's ,Please do tell us more about those alloy wheels.I have not heard of these.What make,where did you get them and how much money?

[TomB]

Hi Tom what is the advantage of copper over aluminium anti seize in this application? Aluminum version is readily available here.
Phil

We use copper grease on anything steel or stainless steel, on the very few aluminium built kit we have on site we use aluminium grease on as Copperslip can corrode the aluminium threads .......we're told.

I've used copperslip on my cover screws for the last 30 odd years and never had a thread corrode away.

Personally, I fit corrosion resistant exhaust studs dry, stainless, hastaloy, or whatever, and use copperslip on the nut/stud end remembering to use A2 (304) studs/bolts and A4 (316) nuts for cheaper costs, or the other way round for higher tensile strength in the stud/bolt. A4 (316) bolts have a comparable tensile strength to an 8.8 CS bolt.

Any torque figures quoted in manuals will always be for lubricated fasteners, unlubricated fasteners torque settings are blown away to the point of being meaningless.

And whilst I'm going on about tensile strengths of bolts, how many lads here have fitted nice shiny stainless hex socket cap screws (allen screws) to their middle drive outer chrome cover? the originals are 12.9 tensile strength screws - VERY high tensile screws to hold the bearing end cap on which resists a huge axial shaft load from the bevel gears. If you really insist on stainless screws use A4 ......and don't accelerate hard

.

[natemoen]

Jame's ,Please do tell us more about those alloy wheels.I have not heard of these.What make,where did you get them and how much money?

These are on his XJR not an XS.

[James England]

Yeah, but is 60lbs evenly distributed over the bike really change the ride dynamics that much? Picking a 60 lb. Bag of concrete, and a 60 lb. Dumbell are two different tasks.

of course it does. Like I said in my post, the bike handles completely differently and its a huge improvement. Like a different bike...faster, lighter and completely different from before.

Dumbells, cement...whatever 60lbs=60lbs....permanently removed. It's 12% of the dry weight of the bike.

[James England]

Jame's ,Please do tell us more about those alloy wheels.I have not heard of these.What make,where did you get them and how much money?

they are Japanese and made by Galespeed. Actually, I think they do make them for the Xs1100. Have a look on their website.

Here's a pic