Wire rear wheel for XS11... I have an idea.

[donebysunday]

Welcome Orange4 !

Sounds like you will show us some real special doings with these bikes !

Can't wait !!!!! Done };~)

[TopCatGr58]

Only because a steel hub is much easier to weld on....

Hey Orange4,

I think I see where Steve is going.....the center spline hub assembly on our rear wheels is BOLT IN/ON to the wheel, and so with the H-D wheel, you can find a way to be able to fabricate a bracket/plate that can be welded to the Harley Wheel, and will allow the XS Spline Hub to bolt onto/into that!?

Definitely take lots of photos and such, good luck! T.C.

[Orange4]

I'm thinking a gold wing wheel is easier because it also bolts on to it's splined hub and has a disc on it.

Don't know why but it seems more appealing to me to use a Japanese wheel. In the end it will depend on which is the better solution.

For now it's all speculation until I can get two rims in the same room together!

[Orange4]

Well, I have a Gl1000 wire wheel I acquired off Fleabay.

There is hope. The GL bearing OD is about the size of the XS bearing hub OD. This means that If I cut off the GL bearing hub the XS hub may just slide right in giving good registration. Then a nice clean tig weld could be all that's needed there. Then the XS splined hub would slide on like stock. The GL splined hub would have to be milled flat and the XS one bolted or welded on to that depending on how the clearances are.

Does anyone know if the steel bearing hubs are press fit or cast into the aluminum rim? If I could press them out this would simplify things a lot.

Not installed yet. Just looking at clearances...

[crazy steve]

...Does anyone know if the steel bearing hubs are press fit or cast into the aluminum rim? If I could press them out this would simplify things a lot.

Unfortunately, the XS hub is cast into the wheel, so to get it out of there will require destroying the wheel and a metal lathe. One other thing to keep in mind is the XS drive spider, while it bolts to the wheel, has insulators around each bolt to absorb driveline shock as well as any minor misalignment. You'll need to install something similar in the GL hub if it doesn't already exist or match up.

[Orange4]

Bummer. Thanks for the info. I do have an interesting way to deal with this problem... I have a large kiln so I can melt the aluminum off of the XS hub.

Anyone nearby to BC or Washington State have a damaged donor wheel so I can continue with this experiment? I'd hate to destroy a good wheel.

The GL1000 hub has similar flex mounts so when the two hubs are welded together they will function exactly as intended. They each use a different hub support location but I think I can keep them both happy.

[crazy steve]

I do have an interesting way to deal with this problem... I have a large kiln so I can melt the aluminum off of the XS hub..

I wouldn't do that.... The melting point of aluminum isn't that far below steel and I have no doubt that the heat would destroy any heat-treating/hardening that the OEM hub has.

Actually, I'd try machining the XS hub to it's largest diameter, basically just removing the remains of the spokes. This will retain all the XS-specific items, then bore the Honda hub for a press-fit of the Yamaha hub.

[Radioguylogs]

Speaking of the rare Japanese GX750 idea...

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/4316022839.html

[Orange4]

I wouldn't do that.... The melting point of aluminum isn't that far below steel and I have no doubt that the heat would destroy any heat-treating/hardening that the OEM hub has.

Actually, I'd try machining the XS hub to it's largest diameter, basically just removing the remains of the spokes. This will retain all the XS-specific items, then bore the Honda hub for a press-fit of the Yamaha hub.

I think you are right, except on the steel/aluminum melting point. ~1200 aluminum, ~2600 steel. But I was looking at all the steps and your suggestions have by far the least number of steps required. Added bonus: keep the stock disc brake.

[Orange4]

Speaking of the rare Japanese GX750 idea...

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/4316022839.html

HOLY CRAP! Coincidence or what?

[fredintoon]

- - - Actually, I'd try machining the XS hub to it's largest diameter, basically just removing the remains of the spokes. This will retain all the XS-specific items, then bore the Honda hub for a press-fit of the Yamaha hub.

Hi Steve,
check out my post #14.

[Orange4]

I wouldn't do that.... The melting point of aluminum isn't that far below steel and I have no doubt that the heat would destroy any heat-treating/hardening that the OEM hub has.

On further reflection, I doubt the hubs would be damaged by melting the aluminum off because they would have already reached that temperature during casting. Still, Not the way to go.

[natemoen]

If you are machining the spokes off a stock rim, why not just add the spokes to that and not even bother with the go rim. That is what the one Aussie guy did.

[Orange4]

Because fabricating the rings, drilling all those holes at the right spacing and then welding those to a hub is a lot more work than machining out an existing hub and press fitting / welding the two.

[fredintoon]

Because fabricating the rings, drilling all those holes at the right spacing and then welding those to a hub is a lot more work than machining out an existing hub and press fitting / welding the two.

Hi O4,
not everyone has access to the necessary kit.
Absent a lathe big enough to swing a complete wheel and a 10 ton press a pair of welded-on spoke rings may be Joe Amateur's only way forward.
Building your own spoke rings does give you the option of choosing the number of spokes and the size and type of rim you want