ACCT Installed Wrong?

[IanDMacDonald]

Yeah, that makes me feel better knowing it's in the pan (hopefully). And, the second I drop the head on the cylinder, I'm coming on here and asking ten times to make sure I'm doing everything right one step at a time.

[motoman]

Yeah, that makes me feel better knowing it's in the pan (hopefully). And, the second I drop the head on the cylinder, I'm coming on here and asking ten times to make sure I'm doing everything right one step at a time.

Nice to see someone asking a hundred times if necessary rather than after the fact. 'After the fact' seems to only shed light on part of what REALLY happened. Hmmm.......wonder why that is?.........sumpin' to do with human nature seems to come to mind......

[GLoweVA]

Sorry I haven't read the whole thread, but if the shop is putting the cams back in, (which they would have to to get the correct shims in)
then, unless you've got your timing chain separated, then you're gonna have to pull the cams back out to get the cam/sprockets 'inside' the chain.
In other words, when you put the head back on, the timing chain has to come up thru the center of the head then around the cam sprockets to drive the cams.
So, the way to do this is, pull the cams off/out, put head down onto of jugs while not losing the chain down into the engine, some have used wire or bungee cords, but what ever is needed to prevent the chain from falling down in there.
Once you get the head on and torqued (in sequence) then you can go about putting the cams back in and doing the timing alignment to make sure the dots line up with the arrows on the cam caps when at TDC. (T mark)

Hope this clarifies some of the install process.

[bikerphil]

unless you've got your timing chain separated, then you're gonna have to pull the cams back out to get the cam/sprockets 'inside' the chain...... the timing chain has to come up thru the center of the head then around the cam sprockets

Good point there. Either break the chain or take the cams out.

[WMarshy]

Not for nothin, its probably worth having the shop install the cams and set the valve lash. That's one less thing you have to worry about (adjusting them with proper lash).

Just keep in mind, when you go to put the head back on you have to get the chain back on the cam sprockets as previously mentioned. Personally, I would buy a new cam chain that is split and unstall it. It will either have a master link with a C clip or one you have to peen the ends on... that saves you from having to take the cams back out and improves reliability (new parts!).

Other option is to reuse the chain and have to remove the cams to get the chain over the sprockets... or split the old chain in place, buy a master link then install as mentioned.

[IanDMacDonald]

I completely forgot about that. My vote is for removing the cams.

[IanDMacDonald]

Plus, I don't want to buy another chain. One step at a time. First step is getting the head back.

[CaptonZap]

Hey CZ. I ended-up calling the one guy back and saying not to sit the head on a bebch when installing the cams, and apologized if I insulted his intelligence. He laughed and said that he knew that already. I did not tell him they were interference valves.

Excellent! You just established a better relationship with the guy. Now he won't think you are a dummy, and will think that you know what to look for in the finished product, which keeps him on his toes.
CZ

[IanDMacDonald]

Not quite CZ. He was just the shop monkey. It was a large shop.

[IanDMacDonald]

Okay, as I'm preparing for the return of the head this week, I'm going over a checklist in my mind regarding this bike running again. Please feel free to correct me on any inaccuracies, etc.

1. Clean cylinder gasket surface with a non-abrasive cleaner and install gasket.
2. Make sure #1 cylinder is @ TDC and verify with timing plate @ "T" mark.
3. Make sure cam chain is on the crank sprocket.
4. Remove cams following the manual procedure.
5. Install head and torque head nuts per manual specs.
6. Install cams making sure dots are straight up facing caps.
7. Torque cam caps per manual specs.
8. Install cam chain around cam sprockets and install two of the nuts.
9. Stick dowel through CCT hole (applying pressure to chain), and turn crank 180° to get other two nuts on.
10. Install ACCT body with gasket after pushing plunger in all the way. Install spring.
11. Spin crank 3-6 times verifying timing on cams.
12. Re-check valve clearances.
13. Install valve cover gasket and valve cover.
14. Drain engine oil and re-fill with Rotella T5.
15. Blow ouy carbs with air and carb cleaner.
16. Charge battery.
17. Install air box & carbs.
18. Cross my fingers and crank the baby.

Future mods:
S/S Brake lines
HID Headlight
LED Taillights/turn signals
Tkat fork brace
TC Fuse Panel

[WMarshy]

8. Install cam chain around cam sprockets and install two of the nuts.
9. Stick dowel through CCT hole (applying pressure to chain), and turn crank 180° to get other two nuts on.
10. Install ACCT body with gasket after pushing plunger in all the way. Install spring.
11. Spin crank 3-6 times verifying timing on cams.

I dont see any issues until step 9. Ditch the dowel idea and install the CCT like in step 10. The cams wil rotate just fine with one bolt in the sprockets. Dont forget the chain guide between the two cams, you cannot put it in with the chain on the sprockets. Dont ask how I know this...

[IanDMacDonald]

I have one more question:
After I insert the two cam bolts securing the sprockets to the cam, do I have to rotate the crank to the "C" mark to install the ACCT, or can I install it at the "T" mark where it's currently sitting?

[bikerphil]

You can put it in right there. Make sure there is no slack in the chain on the rear side.

[IanDMacDonald]

Okay, perfect! Just wanted to make sure, as I read Steve's thread about ACCT install, and it mentioned "C" mark is when u should install it.

[crazy steve]

Okay, perfect! Just wanted to make sure, as I read Steve's thread about ACCT install, and it mentioned "C" mark is when u should install it.

Actually, you can use the 'T' mark just as easily. The 'C' mark is there because that's where Yamaha determined that you had the most slack in the chain for adjusting the stock CCT. Because the ACCT adjusts constantly, that's not critical anymore...