ACCT Installed Wrong?

[Rasputin]

It may not be that bad but you must understand that it is a possibility. The reason there are manuals and forums like these is so people will benefit from them. Simple truth is that this is one of the most often misunderstood things that owners do wrong and it costs them. Not trying to rain on your parade but if it was done incorrectly that possibility is the truth. Some are lucky and others are not so much. Some bend every valve and some bend one, some have the sun shining from their backsides and have no damage. Hopefully the sun shines brightly from your arse.

[IanDMacDonald]

Sweet Baby Jesus, I hope so!!!

[IanDMacDonald]

Right off the bat, how will I know if a valve is bent?

[Rasputin]

And, I did follow the post instructions Steve had, so, I don't fell 100% of the blame. I'll find out tonight if my valves are now bent paperclips.

This depends on which post Steve made that could guide you wrong. If you can post which thread you followed it would be good to know if there is a problem. The one I looked at that I think you may have been reading says the direction twice and in bold letters says not to turn the crank again until the last step or until it says so or something like that as I have CRS.

[IanDMacDonald]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

[Rasputin]

Right off the bat, how will I know if a valve is bent?

You will not know unless you turn the engine further and possibly do more damage it that is indeed the case. I would pull things apart and check the timing marks on the cams and timing plate and verify everything before turning that motor over any way but by hand.
A compression check will let you know pretty fast if you have a bent valve. No compression equals a bent valve. Best thing to do is remain calm and look over everything before you get too excited. Once you know the answers to the questions swirling in your head you will know what to ask and why.

[Rasputin]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

I just read through that link and I find nothing amiss if you followed the directions. I use three revolutions before removing the CCT because someone told me too way back. That may also be in the manual but I am not into looking right now.
The other thing that comes to mind is when you adjusted your valves did you use the tool or pull the cams up to be able to change the shims. If you used a couple of links in conjunction with each other it may have confused you.
Main point is to check and recheck everything before the possible mistake becomes irreparable.

[IanDMacDonald]

My valve clearances were within spec, so, the shims were never removed. No, I did not rotate the crank three times prior to removing the CCT. I'm removing the valve cover now, as the crank is not turning anymore while I was trying to put it on "C".

[IanDMacDonald]

Okay, I need some help. I have the ACCT installed, and can only turn the crank abouthalf a turn each way (CW/CCW). What is goibg on? What do I need to do?

[IanDMacDonald]

I just re-installed the OEM CCT and now can turn the crank. Phew! About to run a compression check on each cylinder.

[IanDMacDonald]

I got as far as checking the compression with all the plugs out, and got 90 psi across each cylinder. When I installed the plugs and tried doing each cylinder individually, the battery gave out. Got it on the charger overnight. I'll re-check compression in the morning. Hopefully it'll be within spec. I'll re-try the ACCT tomorrow. I'm no quitter!!!

[petejw]

I got as far as checking the compression with all the plugs out, and got 90 psi across each cylinder. When I installed the plugs and tried doing each cylinder individually, the battery gave out. Got it on the charger overnight. I'll re-check compression in the morning. Hopefully it'll be within spec. I'll re-try the ACCT tomorrow. I'm no quitter!!!

90 psi on a cold engine should be fine,
as long as they're all similar and no great discrepancy's
between cylinders.

a proper compression check needs to be done at
operating temperature with the throttle held
fully open, and best done with all plugs removed.

sounds like u may have been lucky.

[skids]

I'll tell you what Ian, I would pull that cam cover off and make sure that the arrows on the cam bosses line up with the dots on the cams. I wouldn't do any compression testing or any cranking with the key until you know for sure.
If the tensioner is locked in the same position as when you took it off you would be OK reinstalling it for this procedure... Remove the spark plags and rotate the crank with a wrench (around and to the T mark) by hand with the tensioner in place and if you feel resistance, stop before you bend a valve. If that is the case you would need to pull the cams up to realign everything.

If the dots match the arrows, you can go ahead and recheck the shim clearances again. A bent valve will generally stick and you will measure excessive clearance if that is the case. I am hoping for the best for you.

[Rasputin]

+1 on what Skids said.
I would check and recheck everything before doing any more cranking. If the cam chain slipped one tooth you will still have compression and possibly good valves but better to be safe than sorry. I have had a bike with the cam chain off by one tooth and yes it was ok in the end but the compression numbers and the way it ran was off.
There are no real short cuts to this as you must make sure that EVERYTHING is correct before going further. Timing marks, Dots, "T" mark at top dead center and checked to be so, and everything else will make sure your bike is running well and has no damage.
Were there any marks on the ACCT that should not have been there? Is the ACCT off a year of bike and model that is on the list? Could it have been from a different year or an ebay seller who did not know what he had. When you removed the ACCT did you first remove the 19mm or so bolt first so you had a reference point as to how far it was in? If you remove that bolt and the spring first then the ACCT will stay in the position it was in when it was engaged. That way you can compare with the depth/length that the stock CCT is in.
Honestly this is no time to rush to do anything! Make sure all is where it is supposed to be including valve lash, timing and all that. Then do the compression test with the carbs open and the plugs out, with a fully charged battery and let that sucker crank until it hits its highest number.
I know if it was my bike and it ran good and was worth the effort to me, I would go so far as to drop the oil pan and see what might be in there for stuff like the cam chain guide material. I am a bit anal about that stuff and I have enough bikes that I can ride that I can do that even if it takes me a year or so to get done.
Patience is a virtue here as what went wrong needs to be found out. If the ACCT is the correct one according to the list, and that is the only problem, we need to know as other members will eventually run into the same thing.
Oh yeah keep a camera handy so we can all see what you find, and it will help us help you. Hoping for the best.

[IanDMacDonald]

I might turn this into an all-nighter just to be certain. So, when I place the plate on "T" for TDC, I should see the dots on the Intake/Exhaust cams line-up with their respective cam cap arrows, correct? Does anyone have a pic as to what exactly I should be looking for?