ACCT Installed Wrong?

[Rasputin]

I guess you have learned to not go your own way on this before you check out stuff like owners manual and the forum and all that kind of stuff. I was mostly just ribbing you about slow down and all that until you went at it like a starved man at a Smorgasbord!
I know Scott was more than willing to help you after this happened but life goes on and an offer like he made was nothing to be sneezed at. Too bad he is now busy and you will have to pay a price for what was once offered free.
Most here who have bent valves do not report that they had to replace guides or seats. From the posts I have seen it is a simple matter of replacing a known weak/bent valve with a good one. A bit of lapping and everybody is happy.
You can do it! Just do it! Be patient, ask questions before...not after...and check out a few answers before doing something. Often members have disagreeing opinions on procedures or other things.
You rushed in here like a hurricane and let us think that our beautiful bikes were number one in your eyes. Now you have a wee bit of trouble and you do not think it is worth it.
Give your head a shake and decide what you want and then let us know. We can most certainly help! The decision is yours, to have an XS11 or a cheap clone.

[BA80]

Ease up Doug.

I'm pretty sue I have a decent head if you want. PM me.

[Rasputin]

Sorry. I did not think I was being harsh. I know Scott has been in contact with me and he did his best to accommodate Ian. Now that life has moved on, I am only hoping that Ian will take in what the forum has to offer. Spare head and engines do come up but most are too expensive due to shipping. I was simply trying to give him a little push to get him too see that is was worth the effort.
If I came across as harsh I do apologize.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey Fellas-

No offense taken Doug. You are absolutely right! The guy that I was asking about all of this is definitely a pro when it comes to bikes. The valves Scott sent me definitely need some cleaning up. I know that he had a certain cut he put on the valves. So, I'll ask him what exactly he did with those before I dig in. I have not even taken the head off yet, because I want to make sure that I do not screw the pooch on everything again. I know I have to cut the chain and buy a master link for that. The thing that screwed this all up was the timing of the cams. So, I'll need some help with that. Also, I'll look into a valve spring tool for the valves.

[BA80]

Why would you need to cut the chain Ian?

[IanDMacDonald]

Maybe that idea was out of ignorance, but, don't you have to cut the chain to pull the head off, or was that on the 750 only? Unless I pull the cams off . . .

[IanDMacDonald]

Is the suggestion out there that it would be cheaper and easier to just drop another head on the bike?

[crazy steve]

Is the suggestion out there that it would be cheaper and easier to just drop another head on the bike?

... and probably more reliable in the long run. Get another head, just lap the valves (something you can do at home for cheap) if you feel the need and want the assurance of good valve seal.

$280 should pay for the head and any/all tools needed to 'touch' it up...

[IanDMacDonald]

Found a few hours and pulled the head this afternoon. Didn't really have time to look it over, nothing stuck out like a piston with a hole. My buddy is a master mechanic, and he will help me pull the valves. He said the project may not require anything more than a simple lap job. However, I know Scott said that the valves needed a cut due to the head being worked on.

[WMarshy]

Found a few hours and pulled the head this afternoon. Didn't really have time to look it over, nothing stuck out like a piston with a hole. My buddy is a master mechanic, and he will help me pull the valves. He said the project may not require anything more than a simple lap job. However, I know Scott said that the valves needed a cut due to the head being worked on.

Just another little fact you may not know about with these engines. If the cams are installed and the head is on the bench. Be careful about rotating the cams. If one of the intakes is open and you open the exhaust on the same cylinder they will hit each other. Also, dont set the head flat on the bench with any valve open, it could get bent.

[IanDMacDonald]

Yeah, I read that in another thread. I just re-read Steve's thread regarding proper cam installation. I hope I can find a cheap way to get those valves cut and get this bike going.

[WMarshy]

Yeah, I read that in another thread. I just re-read Steve's thread regarding proper cam installation. I hope I can find a cheap way to get those valves cut and get this bike going.

I just dont understand why Scott is telling you the valve seats need cutting. What "work" was done on the head that warrants cutting the seats in his opinion?

[IanDMacDonald]

I know he ported and polished the head. Whatever he did to it required a certain degree cut on the valves.

[WMarshy]

I know he ported and polished the head. Whatever he did to it required a certain degree cut on the valves.

So is he recommending a certain angle cut to compliment the port job he did? Or did he nick a seat?

Sorry I didnt read the entire post... what's his experience level with porting heads?

The only reason I could see cutting the seats is if they were damaged/repaired or if you wanted a different angle for performance reasons. Otherwise IMO I dont believe the benefit is worth the cost. Especially when you could just lap them and skip all the trouble of cutting the seat.

Besides, say you cut new seats, are you going to grind the valve too? I dont suspect he knows what the valve seat angles are right now so logically the proper thing to do it cut the seat and grind the valve to match the seat... is he recommending grinding the valve too?

Im not saying Scott is wrong but just letting you know that if it was my bike this is what I would be asking/challenging him on, and maybe learn something in the process.

[IanDMacDonald]

All I know is what Scott told me, lol

the following are mods to the bike, Scott's words:
The distributor centrifigul advance curve reduced, allowing the initial to be increased, no vacuum advance.
Head was milled like .060 which left the piston to valve clearance a bit tight at .07 and .08. I can't remember the exact compression, but it may be in the notes. I think it's about 10.8:1. The valves are backcut and the bowls are ported mildly. One puck is shimmed, (I don't like that- I was poor at the time), but it ran for ten years the strong use without a tick.
O2 sensor in the header for jetting. It's rich enough to run open headers.
~40 MPG
Without mufflers it will flip backward without popping the clutch at any speed in 1st gear and most of 2nd. Didn't like the Jardines as much as the pipes that are on there. They reduced the rpm at max horsepower. Makes strong power to 5500-9200 without a hitch.
Scott
__________________
79 F; CNC cut 2nd gear dogs; Ported/Milled head; Modded Airbox 8x8 bottom auto filter; more initial timing adv. , less Cent., no Vac. Adv.