ACCT Installed Wrong?

[crazy steve]

The point I was trying to make was missed; yes, if only adjusting the stock tensioner is what you're trying to do, then having it on the 'C' mark is critical because that is where Yamaha engineers calculated the maximum slack in the chain will be. Remember, the OEM tensioner (while having a spring to 'adjust' it), once adjusted and locked down with the bolt doesn't move. Which is why it needs periodic adjustment.

I'd suggest a careful reading of the FSM, 'engine assembly and adjustment, parts I and J', starting on page 3-45. Note that they start with the 'T' mark and end with it. The motor is turned to the 'C' mark merely to try to get the most slack in the chain at the tensioner. As the ACCT 'self-adjusts', a few hand rotations of the motor will do that without ever stopping at 'C'....

Personally, if removing/reinstalling any CCT, I'd pull both the timing and cam covers to verify cam timing in any case as per the FSM.

[BA80]

[motoman]

The point I was trying to make was missed; yes, if only adjusting the stock tensioner is what you're trying to do, then having it on the 'C' mark is critical because that is where Yamaha engineers calculated the maximum slack in the chain will be. Remember, the OEM tensioner (while having a spring to 'adjust' it), once adjusted and locked down with the bolt doesn't move. Which is why it needs periodic adjustment.

I'd suggest a careful reading of the FSM, 'engine assembly and adjustment, parts I and J', starting on page 3-45. Note that they start with the 'T' mark and end with it. The motor is turned to the 'C' mark merely to try to get the most slack in the chain at the tensioner. As the ACCT 'self-adjusts', a few hand rotations of the motor will do that without ever stopping at 'C'....

Personally, if removing/reinstalling any CCT, I'd pull both the timing and cam covers to verify cam timing in any case as per the FSM.

Basicly saying the same as Greg and a couple others, but have to agree with re-tensioning an OEM tensioner, removal and replacement no matter what tensioner used, 'C' procedure would be in ones best interest to follow. Periodic adjustment of the OEM adjuster comes mostly from the set-bolt not holding, not chain or sprocket wear.

[DGXSER]

Steve, it was not clear to me the first time, but I get your point. I do not disagree with your theory. I do still think it is a good idea to install the CCT on the C mark, it certainly is not going to cause a problem.

[motoman]

By golly.....think I got it!

[mack]

when in doubt

splitting hairs, but when in doubt follow the book until you've done at least three motors and can't read the book anymore for the oil prints on the pages.

[Rasputin]

Not really trying to revive an old thread but curiosity killed the cat and this old fart would like to know where this thread went, why, and how.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey fellas-

Been extremely busy with school and work and a social life that is costing me a lot of money, lol. I have every intention of getting with Scott when the weather is a little nicer and when I receive my income tax return so I can pay him for any work that he may be doing with me. He is after-all giving me valves for my head, on-top of showing me how to replace them. I still do not know if there is a hole in the piston of the cylinder where the initial valve was bent before they all were bent. I know what this would cost if I took it to a shop, so his efforts should be worth something.

Other than that, I'm sadly going to pass on a deal to pick-up another XS750 and XS11 that need work, as I need to save my money for other things.

Thanks for keeping this post alive.

Mac

[TheRev]

Ok. I am a little nervous after reading this thread. I installed a acct on my bike last week. I followed the directions on this forum. In fact I documented the procedure on my thread "xs1100 standard for $1.00". Anyhow, reading this thread has me wondering if I did everything right. My engine is out of the bike and on a stand so I have no way of knowing if all is well. This is what makes me nervous.

1: I didn't hear the acct "click" when I tightened the bolts. In fact I didn't hear a thing. No ratcheting sounds or anything.

2: I didn't crank the engine by hand after the install. I suppose I still can since the engine hasn't moved. Is that what you all recommend? If I crank by hand a few times will the acct "ratchet" into place? Do I crank it by hand using the square nut on the timing plate?

3: I didn't open the top of the engine and look at the cams when I did the mod. Was that necessary? I didn't read that in the instructions.

I guess my fear is that because the bike is currently no operational I have know idea if the mod was successful. I don't want to put everything back together and start her up only to have a similar problem discussed on this thread. What do you all think?

[conquest87tsi]

Remove your valve cover. As you said, it is not necessary to do for a ACCT install, however it is the only way I know of to ensure your cam chain hasn't skipped a tooth. What you are looking for are the little dots on the cam gears. You will have to turn the engine over. Make sure both marks (exhaust and intake) line up with the arrows simultaneously. I did this mod a little over a month ago on both my F and SF. Haven't ran the SF, but the F purrs like a kitten. I turned it over about 4 times after the install, not including all the turning over when I adjusted the valves.

Did you make sure you installed the housing without the spring and cap bolt first?

[conquest87tsi]

Padre,
If you do end up removing the valve cover, which you definetly should. It gives you the opertunity to either polish or paint the cover and also replace the half moon seals on the right side. Looking at your pics I can't tell if they weren't leaking or if you just did a really good job of cleaning. I just redid an F model and ended up blacking out all the engine covers and exhaust. I really like how it turned out, but thats just me. Was a LOT of sand blasting and painting though.

[jetmechmarty]

I replaced my ACCT at the same time I replace the chain. It didn't ratchet either. That chain is tight.

[TheRev]

Thanks for the replies. The engine is turned upside down at the moment. I am getting ready to do the 2 gear fix. I will remove the valve cover after that. I too am planing on painting the engine. What type of paint did you use?

[crazy steve]

For engine painting, here's what I did....

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...highlight=Yawn

Finished motor...

[LoHo]

FWIW, I followed the directions posted for the ACCT. I did not hear it ratchet, and when I started the engine, it made more noise than usual, which I rationalized was from a tight chain (dummy!). Riding home from work, she began running rough with reduced power. I checked my work when I got home, and as I started to remove the bolt that holds the spring in the ACCT, I heard it ratchet out.

I had skipped a tooth on each sprocket, but not mangled anything, and she ran, albeit poorly. I reset the timing, reinstalled the ACCT, making sure of the "zzzip" of ACCT extension, rolled the engine over by hand a few times to make sure she was timed right, and all was well until my spark issues.

>Time lapse: calendar pages fall off, the seasons change, grey hairs appear<

My last reassembly was foiled by setting the timing at the C mark because I'm a dumbass, which has led to a new valve in #3. It was the valve that was the tightest, so when it was pushed in by the cam with the timing off several degrees, it lightly contacted the piston, making a nice ringing note and reducing the compression to nearly zero. I have since replaced it and gotten her running, but need to synch the carbs and get her tuned, as well as chase down an oil leak I never had before. I hope a gasket has just shrunk from disuse, but that would be lucky, and lucky has not been my pattern so far.