ACCT Installed Wrong?

[ViperRon]

Lo Ho

The C mark positions the pistons with compression on cylinders at a point where engine movement is negated keeping the chain tight on the backside so that slack is less likely to cause a slipped tooth. To position the engine in some rotation locations during removal of the tensioner is an almost guarentee that the engine will move.

Wear on teeth the internal tensioner parts cam sprockets and how level the engine is all can work against you.

My sugestion to anyone is follow Steve's advice. If you have an unknown engine, new to you or well worn engine to remove the valve covers, plugs, and pull the cams make sure all valves come up and go thew the full timing procedure. With cams out no valves are down and should not be damaged by turing the engine to the T mark. If you are not absolutely sure what you are doing and have it apart stop and ask someone to walk you thew it. Remember both of the cams and the crankshaft have to be in the proper place before you bolt the cams down or you can bend valves. I feel more damage is done by confused people doing things with timing than any other procedure on this bike.

[Cuda 69]

I found this easyer to do with the sparkplugs out,I've never seen anybody use that ACCT on here. hopefully no damage was done.good luck.

[BA80]

I have installed several auto tensioners and never had a problem at all. Just put the bike on the center stand, line up the timing marks on the "c" and do it.

Y'all can really complicate a simple job sometimes

[JerseyJon]

One of the best threads here . . .

I spend a lot of time reading the technical posts here. I know it's weird, but I do. I'll even scroll through posts from several years ago and read the ones that are interesting. I'm learning a lot. I don't have as much time as I'd like to wrench, but this is the next best thing.

This thread about Mac's trials and tribulations has been fascinating on a number of levels. There is more than just technical knowledge in this one. There is also patience, kindness, enthusiasm, accountability.

It almost makes me want to go out and screw something up and then report back.

Can't wait to hear the outcome. Mac, please don't forget to update us. And thank you.

[motoman]

I have installed several auto tensioners and never had a problem at all. Just put the bike on the center stand, line up the timing marks on the "c" and do it.

Y'all can really complicate a simple job sometimes

+1......several here also..............guess if it makes one feel better, pull the valve cover off, but if a link was gonna move one tooth, it would be at the crank anyways. Never had any reason to pull the plugs to do this simple upgrade either.

[DGXSER]

I also have installed 4 or 5 of them with no problems. My procedure, put the bike on the centerstand, pull the timing cover, and put the timing plate on the C-Mark. Pull the old tensioner, put the new one in place. Turn the engine over by hand several rotations. Put the timing cover back on, start it up.

As to the C-Mark, since I did not design the engine or the procedure I can only postulate why. My theory, At that location in the engine rotation compression causes the highest tension on the back of the chain, pulling against the cams, that must overcome valve spring pressure to move. In otherwords, it keeps all the slack in chain on the tensioner side, and the pressure/friction keeps the chain on the crank shaft, and the cams so it will not move.

Can things go wrong, sure they can. Is it a bad idea to pull the valve cover and make sure the cams stay aligned, no it is not, all depends on your comfort level with the project. No matter what other steps you take, definitely do not skip the step of turning the engine by hand several rotations, if something did go wrong this step will let you know before you ruin alot of valves.

[ViperRon]

I know several of us made things overcomplicated sorry. Several of us could do this in the dark no problem . I also think there are those out there who could flip a coin guessing heads or tails and get it wrong 50 out of 50. Its really simple

The piston goes up.
The valves go down.
Then your head goes spinning arround.
Your Universe will never be the same.
That new ACCT should have never came.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dGoRk9pktw

[skids]

+1......several here also..............guess if it makes one feel better, pull the valve cover off, but if a link was gonna move one tooth, it would be at the crank anyways. Never had any reason to pull the plugs to do this simple upgrade either.

I had one slip on one of the cam sprockets once. It can happen. I like to loosen the plugs when I do an adjustment with the OEM CCT so that the compression doesn't mess with the movement. I do have a self-adjusting unit in a box yet to be installed...

[shousey440]

At "c" position, the valve springs are applying = pressure to lobes with most on base circle of cams. This is why the chain is in equilibrium. If a valve spring is compressed on the side of the lobe partially opened or closed; the cams will move if the tensioner is released.

[LoHo]

Now THAT makes sense. Thanks!

[crazy steve]

At "c" position, the valve springs are applying = pressure to lobes with most on base circle of cams. This is why the chain is in equilibrium. If a valve spring is compressed on the side of the lobe partially opened or closed; the cams will move if the tensioner is released.

I'll point out that having the motor on the 'C' position is critical for chain adjustment only if you still have the OEM tensioner. If installing an automatic-type tensioner, simply rotating the motor by hand once or twice after install will take any slack out of the chain no matter where the timing pointer was when you started.

[Irukandji]

If and when there is a need to remove and reinstall the ACCT would you still have to use the same starting point at "C" ??

[DGXSER]

I would have to disagree with Steve on this point. What type of tensioner does not effect how the engine or the chain react to it being installed or removed.

In my opinion, I would always have the engine on the C mark when removing or installing a CCT Auto or stock.

[skids]

I would! And I wouldn't move the crank from the time you remove the OEM CCT until the time you have finished installing the automatic one. Then turn the crank by hand a couple of turns just to be safe.

[BA80]

What shousey says is right. Setting the crankshaft at the c mark is at a point where tension is in the rear of the chain and slack at the front where the tensioner is.

That will be the spot where the chain is most likely to hold it's position without falling off the sprockets. The valve springs against the lobes of the cam pull on the back of the chain. Which lobes depend on which stroke it's on but the effect is the same at that point of any revolution.