Originally posted by unicorncomputer
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Help, Gas coming out of Airbox?
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I can get jets way cheaper at BikeBandit.com. Mains for $10 per set, and pilots for $12 per set. They also carry a lot of factory parts, some pricey, but if you can't get em anywhere else, they will have them. Plus you can see the exploded views."The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1
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Originally posted by Yard Dogg View PostI can get jets way cheaper at BikeBandit.com. Mains for $10 per set, and pilots for $12 per set. They also carry a lot of factory parts, some pricey, but if you can't get em anywhere else, they will have them. Plus you can see the exploded views.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Originally posted by jetmechmarty View PostAre they Mikuni jets, or aftermarket? There's a difference.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostI spent 10 minutes at a dealership arguing this with a parts got once. He was trting to sell me RD jets for $5 each and I said I didnt want them cause they were not the same. He says they are the same and the mikuni will need to be ordered and more expensive. We find them in his parts book and they are about $2.30 each, and he shut up then."The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1
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Fuel solenoid shut off vavle
I have bee entertaing the thought off adding a solenoid valve operated by a relay controlled by ignition switch for years. I have shut off valves installed on most of my bikes to close if they are going to sit for a while.
Dale78 XS1100E Standard
Coca Cola Red
Hooker Headers
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00580.jpg
1979 XS1100 Special
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00612.jpg
1980 XS Standard
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC01137.jpg
2006 Roadstar Warrior
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...um/warrior.jpg
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This is the second rescue bike I've obtained because they needed a better owner. I just can't understand what is so hard about draining the fuel if they are going to be left in a field. Some people just don't care."The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1
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Thank you - ordered my kit today. While I am at it I will probably replace the Air filter - when looking for one, I notice some do the single filter and some do the individual pods. What are the pros/cons of each and which do you recommend?
Thanks again.
Steve
Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Postwww.goergefixs.com will have the kits as cheap or cheaper than anybody else. Reuse your jets or obtain genuine replacement Mikuni jets from Jets-R-Us.79 XS1100 SF
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I think the main reason people switch to the individual pod filters is for ease of removing the carb numerous times over and over again trying to get them correct. The factory air box is also more forgiving for getting the carbs dialed in and also has a nice venturi effect on the air flow. Smoother power across the entire RPM range. All of this of course is JMHO.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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I agree with bikerphil. On my last bike I made my own pipes and cut a hole in the bottom of the air box. The pipes had the same sized exit hole as factory so I only noticed a sound difference. It felt like I lost power in the low range and picked some up on the high end. I'm keeping my air box stock this time."The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1
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One way to get around the airbox problem is to modify the strap that rides over the frame bracket.
Take the bottom off the air box, remove the carbs, and remove the top pat of the air box.
Looking down on the air box, the strap that goes over the frame bracket has four screws holding it on with the arms angled forward.
Tighten the two outer, most forward screws.
Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel, or a hack saw, and cut the straps about a quarter of an inch inboard of the outer screws, so that they have an oddly shaped washer under them. (D shaped)
Be careful to not cut through the rubber straps under the arms.
Now, remove the two inner screws, and the center portion of the strap comes off, allowing the box to be positioned further to the rear.
The two outer screws hold the inside plates, with their captive nuts, in position so that the inner screws can be reinserted with the strap, and the whole thing is back to being almost as new.
It gives you more room to install and remove the carb bank.
CZ
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Originally posted by CaptonZap View PostOne way to get around the airbox problem is to modify the strap that rides over the frame bracket.
Take the bottom off the air box, remove the carbs, and remove the top pat of the air box.
Looking down on the air box, the strap that goes over the frame bracket has four screws holding it on with the arms angled forward.
Tighten the two outer, most forward screws.
Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel, or a hack saw, and cut the straps about a quarter of an inch inboard of the outer screws, so that they have an oddly shaped washer under them. (D shaped)
Be careful to not cut through the rubber straps under the arms.
Now, remove the two inner screws, and the center portion of the strap comes off, allowing the box to be positioned further to the rear.
The two outer screws hold the inside plates, with their captive nuts, in position so that the inner screws can be reinserted with the strap, and the whole thing is back to being almost as new.
It gives you more room to install and remove the carb bank.
CZHi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
Got him in '04.
bald tire & borrowing parts
80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
Scarlet
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
Got her in '11
Ready for the twisties!
81H (previously CPMaynard's)
Hugo
Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
Cold weather ride
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On my Midnight I was able to pull the airbox forward and down off the bracket. Then I could wiggle the carbs out over the top of the airbox. On my XJ the airbox is so tight I can't even do that. When I slide it back the sides of it hit the frame so I can't even pull it down or back. I can't figure out why the Japs chose to leave it this way. I almost would like pods now but I like the look of the airbox with the side plates."The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1
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Originally posted by GLoweVA View PostSounds like a great Mod CZ, but I just can't visualize it. How about a pic? (They say a pic is worth a thousand words)
Print out the discription, go take your seat off, look down, and you will see what I am talking about.
You will have to take the carbs out to get the air box out, so that you can cut the straps, but from there on, the box doesn't have to come out again.
Just take the strap off, and drop the box down and back.
Replace the carbs, pull the box up and forward, seat the boots, put the two screws in, replace the two side bolts on the box. and it is solid. CZ
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How frequently do the carbs need to be removed and worked on?
Originally posted by bikerphil View PostI think the main reason people switch to the individual pod filters is for ease of removing the carb numerous times over and over again trying to get them correct. The factory air box is also more forgiving for getting the carbs dialed in and also has a nice venturi effect on the air flow. Smoother power across the entire RPM range. All of this of course is JMHO.79 XS1100 SF
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