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  • #16
    Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
    Thank you all for this info. I am hoping to take my carbs out and change the boots tomorrow. Need to call local shop for Carb rebuild kits. Anybody know of good kits online in case they are outragous at my local shop like I am expecting to find?

    Anyway, I hope to get the carbs out, change the carb holders, and check the oil tomorrow, will post as things go along.

    Thank you,

    Steve
    www.goergefixs.com will have the kits as cheap or cheaper than anybody else. Reuse your jets or obtain genuine replacement Mikuni jets from Jets-R-Us.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #17
      I can get jets way cheaper at BikeBandit.com. Mains for $10 per set, and pilots for $12 per set. They also carry a lot of factory parts, some pricey, but if you can't get em anywhere else, they will have them. Plus you can see the exploded views.
      "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

      Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Yard Dogg View Post
        I can get jets way cheaper at BikeBandit.com. Mains for $10 per set, and pilots for $12 per set. They also carry a lot of factory parts, some pricey, but if you can't get em anywhere else, they will have them. Plus you can see the exploded views.
        Are they Mikuni jets, or aftermarket? There's a difference.
        Marty (in Mississippi)
        XS1100SG
        XS650SK
        XS650SH
        XS650G
        XS6502F
        XS650E

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
          Are they Mikuni jets, or aftermarket? There's a difference.
          I spent 10 minutes at a dealership arguing this with a parts got once. He was trting to sell me RD jets for $5 each and I said I didnt want them cause they were not the same. He says they are the same and the mikuni will need to be ordered and more expensive. We find them in his parts book and they are about $2.30 each, and he shut up then.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by natemoen View Post
            I spent 10 minutes at a dealership arguing this with a parts got once. He was trting to sell me RD jets for $5 each and I said I didnt want them cause they were not the same. He says they are the same and the mikuni will need to be ordered and more expensive. We find them in his parts book and they are about $2.30 each, and he shut up then.
            I'm not sure what brand, but they fit and work good. I wis I could find some made of bronze so they don't strip. Of course it would help if I didn't buy bikes that have been sitting for so long the fuel is crystalized. LOL. Just can't pass up the cheap stuff I guess.
            "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

            Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

            Comment


            • #21
              Fuel solenoid shut off vavle

              I have bee entertaing the thought off adding a solenoid valve operated by a relay controlled by ignition switch for years. I have shut off valves installed on most of my bikes to close if they are going to sit for a while.
              Dale
              78 XS1100E Standard
              Coca Cola Red
              Hooker Headers

              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00580.jpg

              1979 XS1100 Special
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00612.jpg

              1980 XS Standard
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC01137.jpg

              2006 Roadstar Warrior
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...um/warrior.jpg

              Comment


              • #22
                This is the second rescue bike I've obtained because they needed a better owner. I just can't understand what is so hard about draining the fuel if they are going to be left in a field. Some people just don't care.
                "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                Comment


                • #23
                  Thank you - ordered my kit today. While I am at it I will probably replace the Air filter - when looking for one, I notice some do the single filter and some do the individual pods. What are the pros/cons of each and which do you recommend?

                  Thanks again.

                  Steve

                  Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
                  www.goergefixs.com will have the kits as cheap or cheaper than anybody else. Reuse your jets or obtain genuine replacement Mikuni jets from Jets-R-Us.
                  79 XS1100 SF

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I think the main reason people switch to the individual pod filters is for ease of removing the carb numerous times over and over again trying to get them correct. The factory air box is also more forgiving for getting the carbs dialed in and also has a nice venturi effect on the air flow. Smoother power across the entire RPM range. All of this of course is JMHO.
                    2H7 (79)
                    3H3

                    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                    ☮

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I agree with bikerphil. On my last bike I made my own pipes and cut a hole in the bottom of the air box. The pipes had the same sized exit hole as factory so I only noticed a sound difference. It felt like I lost power in the low range and picked some up on the high end. I'm keeping my air box stock this time.
                      "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                      Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        One way to get around the airbox problem is to modify the strap that rides over the frame bracket.
                        Take the bottom off the air box, remove the carbs, and remove the top pat of the air box.
                        Looking down on the air box, the strap that goes over the frame bracket has four screws holding it on with the arms angled forward.
                        Tighten the two outer, most forward screws.
                        Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel, or a hack saw, and cut the straps about a quarter of an inch inboard of the outer screws, so that they have an oddly shaped washer under them. (D shaped)
                        Be careful to not cut through the rubber straps under the arms.
                        Now, remove the two inner screws, and the center portion of the strap comes off, allowing the box to be positioned further to the rear.
                        The two outer screws hold the inside plates, with their captive nuts, in position so that the inner screws can be reinserted with the strap, and the whole thing is back to being almost as new.
                        It gives you more room to install and remove the carb bank.
                        CZ

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
                          One way to get around the airbox problem is to modify the strap that rides over the frame bracket.
                          Take the bottom off the air box, remove the carbs, and remove the top pat of the air box.
                          Looking down on the air box, the strap that goes over the frame bracket has four screws holding it on with the arms angled forward.
                          Tighten the two outer, most forward screws.
                          Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel, or a hack saw, and cut the straps about a quarter of an inch inboard of the outer screws, so that they have an oddly shaped washer under them. (D shaped)
                          Be careful to not cut through the rubber straps under the arms.
                          Now, remove the two inner screws, and the center portion of the strap comes off, allowing the box to be positioned further to the rear.
                          The two outer screws hold the inside plates, with their captive nuts, in position so that the inner screws can be reinserted with the strap, and the whole thing is back to being almost as new.
                          It gives you more room to install and remove the carb bank.
                          CZ
                          Sounds like a great Mod CZ, but I just can't visualize it. How about a pic? (They say a pic is worth a thousand words)
                          Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                          80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                          The Green Monster
                          K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
                          Got him in '04.
                          bald tire & borrowing parts

                          80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
                          Scarlet
                          K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
                          Got her in '11
                          Ready for the twisties!

                          81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                          Hugo
                          Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
                          Cold weather ride

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            On my Midnight I was able to pull the airbox forward and down off the bracket. Then I could wiggle the carbs out over the top of the airbox. On my XJ the airbox is so tight I can't even do that. When I slide it back the sides of it hit the frame so I can't even pull it down or back. I can't figure out why the Japs chose to leave it this way. I almost would like pods now but I like the look of the airbox with the side plates.
                            "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                            Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by GLoweVA View Post
                              Sounds like a great Mod CZ, but I just can't visualize it. How about a pic? (They say a pic is worth a thousand words)
                              My half frame 35mm isn't working, so we're out of luck.
                              Print out the discription, go take your seat off, look down, and you will see what I am talking about.
                              You will have to take the carbs out to get the air box out, so that you can cut the straps, but from there on, the box doesn't have to come out again.
                              Just take the strap off, and drop the box down and back.
                              Replace the carbs, pull the box up and forward, seat the boots, put the two screws in, replace the two side bolts on the box. and it is solid. CZ

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                How frequently do the carbs need to be removed and worked on?

                                Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
                                I think the main reason people switch to the individual pod filters is for ease of removing the carb numerous times over and over again trying to get them correct. The factory air box is also more forgiving for getting the carbs dialed in and also has a nice venturi effect on the air flow. Smoother power across the entire RPM range. All of this of course is JMHO.
                                79 XS1100 SF

                                Comment

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