Help, Gas coming out of Airbox?

[XSLuigi]

It wont go to both the airbox and the engine. It will take the path of least resistance. If it flows to the airbox then the front is higher than the rear. If it finds it way into the engine then the carbs leak towards the engine and then flow thru an open valve.

the first is def what happened to me, filled the air box up. im not a fan of the center stand, never use it, thinking bout pullin it haha.

[natemoen]

It wont go to both the airbox and the engine. It will take the path of least resistance. If it flows to the airbox then the front is higher than the rear. If it finds it way into the engine then the carbs leak towards the engine and then flow thru an open valve. Usually this happens when the rear of the bike is higher (on centre stand is one way). It will not always happen this way as when you stop an engine that particular valve is not always open on the offending carb. Some days it is and the fuel will run into the engine.
Always pays to be safe than sorry so I agree you should change it out if in doubt.

True but you have to remember what the gas has to flow through in the bottom of the airbox. First it has to rise above both the raised cernter in the airbox and then over the rubber ring on the air filter. Then I it has to flow through that metal cube filter material that may or may not be plugged up some. So depending on how fast the gas is running out of the carbs and how fast it is flowing through the little hole in the airbox it very well could rise up high enough to go both out the airbox and into the engine.

[jetmechmarty]

oil filter

Your local part store has the filter. I use CARQUEST 89933 or Wix 24933. I'm giving those numbers from memory. Any decent part store can look it up for you. Usually, you get it next day.

[motoman]

the first is def what happened to me, filled the air box up. im not a fan of the center stand, never use it, thinking bout pullin it haha.

.........leaky float needles or non sealing petcock/octy don't care what stand it's on......still gonna leak till CORRECTLY fixed......and you'll miss that centerstand more than you think. Off the top of my head, can think of at least 15reasons to leave centerstand on..........

[crazy steve]

....and you'll miss that centerstand more than you think. Off the top of my head, can think of at least 15 reasons to leave centerstand on..........

I take off the sidestand first before I'd give up the centerstand....

[XSLuigi]

yeah I know about the center stand, I just never plan to take this on long interstate trips. Its a cafe racer, short city runs only. Would be nice to have for all the service stuff though, the internal debate goes on haha.

We as far as my issue that matched the OP, I switched my petcocks back to on and pulled the air box lower. That filter was swimmin in gas. The #2 carb velocity boot was wet with fuel. I dried it off and put a clean rag under it. After a day or so it has completely dried up. So I know my petcock is working. But I think its safe to say theres a leaky float seat there. I did the screw driver carb rapp trick a few times. I didnt turn the gas back on though, I wanna try and start her up first and still need to change the motor oil.

Called the local yami dealer, only one within 50 mile haha. They have the oil filter in stock, and as far as a K/N style aftermarket high flow airfilter nothing popped up so we will have to do some searching there. I'm assuming that the gas bath will have trashed that air filter. No pic but what was in there was a metal mesh over a thicker cotton element. Almost like it was an aftermarket, def not K$N though as it was grey/black not red/orange. Thinking about just cleaning it out and hitting with some filter oil...

[natemoen]

K&n air filter is YA-1400 they are all over the place $35 ish dollars. Napa carries (or can order) the oil filter.

[WMarshy]

If your carbs are not leaking with the petcocks in the ON position then the petcocks are working properly and there is no concern (until they stop working properly at which time they will flood you out again unless you resolve the leaky needle valve issue).

Keep in mind, the PRI bypasses the vac operated petcock and allows gas flow when the bike is not running. It's helpful if you suck the tank and carbs dry and need gas to flow back into them, otherwise you can just leave them on ON.

Also, the PRI and RES draw from the same part of the filter towers in the tank. If you are using PRI for normal riding and feel the bike stumble and start to run out of gas you have already burned your RES. Enjoy your walk.

If in RES and you shut off the bike, no flow is allowed through the petcock, works in the same manner as ON.

[XSLuigi]

thnx Nate, I found that part number, think imma just pick one of them up... cant go wrong with a god ol K&N!

WMarshy, appreciate the info. I have since put this together about the petcock haha. Def plan on correctin this whole leaky float seat issue and I am thinking about modding the petcocks to have a positive off function. I feel that is important.

This should be a sticky, mod your petcock and watch those carbs! haha

[WMarshy]

...
This should be a sticky, mod your petcock and watch those carbs! haha

It not a sticky but is in the modification section.

[Dozerr]

gas leak

ok I just had my carbs redone and it had a super slow drip before but now it has a constant leak dripping from the hose and the air filter... so now what?

[jetmechmarty]

Whoever did them for you did not do it right. One or more of the float valves is leaking.

Fix the petcocks.
Rebuilding the Yamaha Vacuum Fuel Valve w/pics

[Dozerr]

carbs

Ok so anyone close to northwest Ohio that knows how to fix this cause I need help getting this fixed, and the place I took it to I guess wasn't the right idea.

[motoman]

Ok so anyone close to northwest Ohio that knows how to fix this cause I need help getting this fixed, and the place I took it to I guess wasn't the right idea.

If no nearby help........help is here. May require removing carb bank more than once. Initially, I'd remove carb bank, remove bowls leaving gaskets in place. Take a rzer blade or X-acto knife and slice off any gasket protrusion to inside of bowl, even tho they may 'look' okay. Not alot of room there for the floats, and when the bowl gaskets get squished into place tightening bowls, gasket will slighty protrude out causing float interference, specially if not the original gasket. Then while bowls are off, check float level measurements for corrct setting levels and most important that they all be the same, and same measurment procedure used on all eight floats. That's a prettybasic procedure, and IMO, if your planning on being able to enjoy this bike with any satisfaction, you ARE gonna have to be able to work on it yourself. Never a better time to do it, and bar-none, their is not a better place of existance to do it and get all the help you need than this forum. IMO, alot of folks here forgot more about the mechanics and electrical of these bikes AND several others, aside from having some really savvy, technical cage mechanics aboard. Hope that helps, and report back to this thread with what you find with the initial suggestions so those here may be of help where to proceed to next.

[Dozerr]

No spark now???

Just and update we seem to have the gas leak under control, still has tiny issue but I believe it is because I have taken the fuel lines on and off a few to many times, so have to change them again. Then about a week after getting that issue fixed now it won't start...UGH! I have just put new coils on this year, it acts like it has no spark. Put new spark plugs on last summer. Wondering if it is a fuse or the ignition any help would be great.