Rear wheel bearing LEFT side

[Stralya]

I have your bearing and one other and a single right hand bearing. I just ordered two sets of new seals from Z1 enterprises and they will be here in a week or two. I'll replace the rear wheel with my spare for the moment and when the seals arrive I'll replace both bearings which will leave me with one left side bearing and one set of seals. The right side bearing are pretty easy to get.

[CaptonZap]

For those interested in prolonging the life of the left side bearing, here is my suggestion.
The spacer sleeve in the left side can be pried out without destroying the seal, if you are carefull. The little spring in the inside collar of the seal may be dislodged, but it can be replaced with no harm done. Once the spacer, seal, and inner race are removed, I use a Dutton Liamson Goldenrod spray can (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...4A31F&first=38 full of gas to wash the bearing out. Tilt the wheel with the left side down, and spray the needles while turning them to clean the old grease out. Do not let the dirty fluid to run through the hub to the right side bearing, as all the grunge gets in that bearing.
Once the bearing is clean, repack with grease, replace the inner race and spacer w/ seal, and you're done.
If you are careful when you have the wheel off, you should never get any grit in that side to mix with the grease and cause bearing wear.
You might get a plug of some sort, or put the axle in when you are cleaning the grease out of the wheel splines, to avoid getting that dirty stuff in the bearing.
With clean grease, I don't see why the bearing won't last till the the u-joint gives out. Especially if you clean and grease the bearing every time you grease the splines.

CZ

[Stralya]

Has anyone actually done the rear wheel bearing replacement? Will I need special tools or will a brass drift and butane torch be enough?

[James England]

Has anyone actually done the rear wheel bearing replacement? Will I need special tools or will a brass drift and butane torch be enough?

Yes, I've done several on my bikes. No special tools. You don't need a butane torch either. You need to remove the right side first in order to get at the left hand outer race in the hub. Just drift out the right side bearing. I used a socket set breaker bar and tapped it out. Then, from the right side, you can then get at the outer race of the left side bearing. I seem to remember there are two slots in the casting of the wheel hub. You need a pointed, strong drift of some sort and you tap the outer race first via one slot, then the slot opposite. It takes quite a lot of force but you'll gradually push the race out of the hub.

[Stralya]

Thanks mate.

[James England]

With clean grease, I don't see why the bearing won't last till the the u-joint gives out. Especially if you clean and grease the bearing every time you grease the splines.CZ

The problem is definitely neglect on this bearing. They work so hard, for decades, but are usually overlooked in terms of maintenance. On the bikes I've done, it's more a case of neglect by the PO's. So, the starting point for a schedule of maintenance like you've described is often one where the bearing is suspect to start with anyway.

It would be nice to think that, for all the bearings I've sent out worldwide, people will look after them once they are installed in the wheel! Then, like you say, they should last for ages. The bearing seals are important though as, once water/dirt gets in there, they can dgenerate fairly rapidly.

[thibtyson]

Received my bearing

Just received my bearing. Thanks James!

[Old Red]

I received my bearing last week. Thanks James

Earl

[James England]

I received my bearing last week. Thanks James

Earl

You're welcome! Glad it got there........

[James England]

Still a few left folks.....

[LiteFiter]

Received

Got them today, great sale, Thanks, James!

[James England]

Got them today, great sale, Thanks, James!

Excellent. Look after them! One day you're going to be very pleased you bought a couple of spares

[James England]

Fourteen more bearings

Hi Folks.

I have managed to get 14 more bearings. I still have two left from the last lot, which I put up for sale on eBay after posting here to see if anyone wanted any but I thought it better to take more of them when they were offered to me.

This means I have a total stock of 16 bearings available. If anyone wants any via the forum, please PM me asap. (I need to charge more for them via eBay in order to cover their commissions/listing fees). They work out at $32 each with airmail shipping worldwide at $6.90 on top of that. Two bearings, including airmail shipping, work out at $71. They fit all models of XS1100, XJ1100 and Maxim. Also the XS850. One only of these is required per rear wheel.

Over to you guys and gal.....

[Stralya]

Yes, I've done several on my bikes. No special tools. You don't need a butane torch either. You need to remove the right side first in order to get at the left hand outer race in the hub. Just drift out the right side bearing. I used a socket set breaker bar and tapped it out. Then, from the right side, you can then get at the outer race of the left side bearing. I seem to remember there are two slots in the casting of the wheel hub. You need a pointed, strong drift of some sort and you tap the outer race first via one slot, then the slot opposite. It takes quite a lot of force but you'll gradually push the race out of the hub.

I've pulled it down and I'm up to here.:



I've banged away for ages and a piece actually broke off the outside of the bearing but the bearing itself wont budge. These are the slots you were talking about?

I got the right side out easily but look what fell out as soon as I did."



It just disintegrated!

Dan.

[Stralya]

I just want to put these bad boys in!