Clutch slipping in 3rd

[petejw]

+1 on rons and tc's idea of pulling
the clutch basket apart and cleaning
the steels, check for warpage and check
the fibres while ur at it, the one i recently pulled
apart had sat for years and the steels were rusted,
i cleaned them up, added a washer under the clutch
springs and was good to go.

[jjz28]

Should i add the washer or buy new springs? The bike just turned over 13000 so maybe just the washer would work and i would not have to wait for parts. That would be nice.

[natemoen]

I would just buy the springs, the washer or the extra steel is just a temp fix.

[petejw]

Should i add the washer or buy new springs? The bike just turned over 13000 so maybe just the washer would work and i would not have to wait for parts. That would be nice.

Ive never needed to replace the springs once ive added
the washers, all with over a 100 000 k's on the engine the washers used are from a spark plug, u don't
need to add them under all the springs u just have to add
them equally and opposite each other, that is do either
2, 4 or 6, the last time i did this i used 4 washers which
worked well ive also used washers under all the springs
this will give u a stiffer feel at the lever tho.

[BA80]

I would just buy the springs, the washer or the extra steel is just a temp fix.

+1!!!!!!!

Should i add the washer or buy new springs? The bike just turned over 13000 so maybe just the washer would work and i would not have to wait for parts. That would be nice.

Put the $18 springs in and it won't be cobbled, it'll be done right.

[natemoen]

It may work, and I do not doubt you Pete, but it my mind the washers and extra steel thing is a bandaid for weak springs.

[jjz28]

So, this is what i think i will do since i wont lose much if any oil. I will put the washers in and order the springs and when the get here then i will put them in. I dont want any down time. Actually i could ride the bike with no issues now as long as i am not wanting to act like a rocket. But it like being a rocket sometimes. The acceleration in these bikes do impress me and i bet i am actually missing a little power in all gears because of this clutch issue, i just cant tell it cause its not bad.

[BA80]

That's fine but it seems a little silly to take it apart twice. The springs usually don't take more than 2 or 3 days to get to you.

But, your bike,your time.

[jjz28]

Well it will probably be a week before i order them and then if the washers and cleaning work, then i wont put them in till later someday.

[ViperRon]

You may want to get some gasket material to make a new gasket or a new gasket as most times when they have been on a while they tend to tear comming loose. You can lube the new one to help prevent it from sticking. A new one may save some time during the process and you'll have everything.

[BA80]

Gasket? Who needs a gasket? Get some Yamabond or some ThreeBond 1194 (what I use) and clean off the old gasket and just use that.

[jjz28]

I got back from a ride a little bit ago, while i was riding i was at a stoplight and was seeing how far i had to let my clutch out before it started pulling and it didnt start pulling until almost all the way out. Could it just be out of adjustment? I know it is out for sure but would that make it slip? I probably wont adjust it until the weekend cause i go back to work tomorrow.

[crazy steve]

Yep, that's out of adjustment....

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

The Engine side clutch adjustment does NOT require taking the crankcase cover off, just the small inner cover that's held on by 2 phillips screws. Then you use a Phillips driver along with IIRC a 12mm box end wrench. First, use a pair of pliers to loosen the handle lever and provide a little slack in the cable, then perform the engine adjustment. Unlock the center lock nut, then use the screwdriver, turn it OUT a full turn or so...then while holding the lock nut with the box wrench so it won't yet turn, screw the philips back in until it just makes contact with the inner throwout pin....you'll feel the extra resistance then back it off a 1/4 turn, and then LOCK it in place with the box wrench. Then test readjust the slack at the handlebar, and then test the feel and see how it behaves or if it still slips! Shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to do this with just a few tools.

T.C.

[jjz28]

Thanks TC, If i get off work on time today, i am going to do this. I was planning on riding to work today but not sure yet. If i have time before i leave, that would be a good time to do it so I could "test" it on the way to work.