update on my project

[GLoweVA]

Just my 2 cents but then for sure I would not use them myself. You do what you will but I would not go to some jetting that is neither for our bikes or known (to us) bikes. They may fit the chainsaw TC has been talking about for all you know. they may also work great for all I know. Thing is for ten bucks give or take you get the right jets and we all breath easier knowing we are not answering questions that you knew the answer to going in.

Don't get me wrong, I know that these are NOT the absolutely correct jets. I'm considering this 'a kind of an experiment'. I got these carb kits from PartsNMore for the XS1100 and though they are not exactly what I pulled out, they are very close. I have looked around and priced the correct jets and found some for around $5-7 each, but just haven't decided to go spend the money yet. I want to see if these will work or not, then I can report if they do or not and what they're like for any others that might want to get the carb kits from PartsnMore. ($14-15 for an ENTIRE kit would be a great deal if all the parts work, that's what I want to find out)

Sorry if this sounded like a rant.

[natemoen]

Don't get me wrong, I know that these are NOT the absolutely correct jets. I'm considering this 'a kind of an experiment'. I got these carb kits from PartsNMore for the XS1100 and though they are not exactly what I pulled out, they are very close. I have looked around and priced the correct jets and found some for around $5-7 each, but just haven't decided to go spend the money yet. I want to see if these will work or not, then I can report if they do or not and what they're like for any others that might want to get the carb kits from PartsnMore. ($14-15 for an ENTIRE kit would be a great deal if all the parts work, that's what I want to find out)

Sorry if this sounded like a rant.

The thing is, people HAVE used them and fought with them in the past.

You can do what you want we just try to warn you.

[petejw]

its not just the bleed holes that are different,
the actual hole in the center is to big,
i bought the same jets
and measured them with drill bits i use for drilling out jets
the center hole was equivalent to a 150 instead of the 142.5
that it should be.
itll run way to rich. jat

[motoman]

I don't think that they are VM style jets.

On mine, the metering orfice is at the tip end, like the BS ones in the pic.
They just have an extra air bleed hole. (8 instead of 6)

What you have and showed is STILL a VM style pilot jet..........save ya some time like Nate said, unless you just need more practice R&Ring the carbs. Genuine Mikuni BS/96(6hole) 42.5's, you'll be golden.

[TopCatGr58]

We are always looking for actual USE/Proof !

Hey Guys,

I know we've advised folks regarding the wrong Pilot Jets, the VM ones that folks got in kits like the K&L and such. The VM style are too rich, and could not be tuned to behave and give the proper throttle response in the low speed circuit.

But what seems is being ignored is that these other aftermarket jets HAVE the proper LOCATION of the main metering orifice as stated in the text in the picture BETWEEN the two styles of jets.

The number of aeration vent holes in the sides does not seem to be the factor.... I would think more holes ...8 vs. 6 would provide MORE air and actually lean the mixture. But I CAN see that having the central metering orifice at the SCREW end BEFORE the aeration side ports could have a greater affect vs. the metering orifice at the pointed end of the jet AFTER the side aeration ports.

SO...I'm glad he's going to try these jets and see how they behave. IF they DO behave and perform acceptable, then we'll know that the 8 vs. 6 side holes differentiation is a RED HERRING, and that the real differentiation feature to be concerned with is the location of the central metering orifice.

He brought them with him when we did his new tires/rims swap today, and the small metering orifice IS at the pointed end, not at the screw/threaded end. I wish him luck, and will be curious to hear the outcome.

T.C.

[petejw]

its that size of the centre hole that is to big
compared to the stock 142.5 jets,
the extra bleed holes will cause the jet to run slightly
leaner but because of the larger size hole in the centre it
negates this,
worth a try
but ive used these same jets before.

the stock pilot jet for the rh is a 40
but these have no bleed holes at all.

[GLoweVA]

Update: Brake time

So, last weekend went over to TCs and put new tires on my SG rims and so this weekend I decided to overhaul the brakes.
7 Years this bike had been sitting and I knew the brake fluid was going to be nasty, but WOW!.
SO this is the inside of the Front master resevoir:


The fluid looked like old maple syrup. Not that store bought pancake syrup, but the real maple syrup you get up in the northeast. In other words, it wasn't as thick as you might think, but plenty brownish.

Here's what the left front caliper looked like inside:


Thanks to the guys here about using the MC to push the caliper pistons out. I would have never gotten them out if not for that.
Oh, and you guys are right about brake fluid being a great paint remover. I tried my best to keep as much red paint on my calipers as I could.

Note to self, next time I spend playing with brake fluid all day, wear gloves. The skin on my hands feels weird.

I would have taken more pics, but I didn't want to touch my phone with my nasty hands.

[crazy steve]

That's relatively clean compared to most I've seen....

[GLoweVA]

Last weekend, i put the new battery in and I got the wheels on and low and behold, I'm missing my front axle washer.
Before I put the rear wheel on, I pulled the final drive off and greased up the splines and the drive axle splines. I saw where that zirc fitting dumps the grease to and I agree that it's useless to get the grease to where it needs to go.
I went to go pull the fill plugs for the final and middle drives and they are in there so tight that my allen wrench started twisting around.
So, yesterday I went to sears and got a 6mm-3/8"drive socket bit!
This weekend I'll apply some more penetrant and some heat and get those plugs out and change out the oil.
Then it's mount the carbs and tank, Put in the new plugs, fire it up and tune it, put the seat on and go for a ride!

[DGXSER]

Sounds like a plan to me. I am waiting on parts to fire it up.

[motoman]

Last weekend, i put the new battery in and I got the wheels on and low and behold, I'm missing my front axle washer.
Before I put the rear wheel on, I pulled the final drive off and greased up the splines and the drive axle splines. I saw where that zirc fitting dumps the grease to and I agree that it's useless to get the grease to where it needs to go.
I went to go pull the fill plugs for the final and middle drives and they are in there so tight that my allen wrench started twisting around.
So, yesterday I went to sears and got a 6mm-3/8"drive socket bit!
This weekend I'll apply some more penetrant and some heat and get those plugs out and change out the oil.
Then it's mount the carbs and tank, Put in the new plugs, fire it up and tune it, put the seat on and go for a ride!

Unless your just anal for originality, toss those fill plugs and go to your local Tru-Valu in the specialtiy trays and get a couple of those nice polished shouldered hex drain/fill plugs(14mm). For the old ones to get out, easiest is make a sharp chisel mark into the edge of plug then angle chisel to the counterclockwise position and pop it once right smartly with a hammer. Pops them loose EVERY time. My notched one stayed in there for some thirty years till I finially got tired of the hammer/ chisel thing to get it loose every time. Same for the final drive fill plug cept use two of the thich fiber gaskets(in tray next to plugs) instead of one to get the shoulder of plug above the recess that's in that area.

[GLoweVA]

Update!!!!

YooHoo...
It lives!
So, after I got the 3/8"drive for the 6mm allen for the fill bolts, they came out fairly easily.
It looked like the final drive oil had been changed, but the middle drive hadn't. It wasn't too bad, but I'm glad I changed it out anyway.
Got the front axle centered and bolted up with a washer.
Did the bike seat bolt mod.
Went to put the tank on and fire it up and #2 & 3 were not hot like #1 & 4.
So I figured it had to be a spark issue.
Checked the voltages and pick up coils and everything checked out.
Found out that the coil secondary was open. #1,4 had 25Kohms from plug to plug and #2,3 was open.
I thought it might be the caps, so I took those off and #3 was missing the spring inside, but after replacing that, it turns out that there was some corrosion and stuff up in there. Cleaned that out and got 5Kohms. Good.
Decided to check my wires and that's when I found the open.

'Stole' the coil off my G to get Scarlet up and running.

Went to try to sync it and had a hard time because it idled so irratically.
Did my best to get all 4 near the same. #2, 3 were still a little less hotter than 1&4, but that might be a lean/rich issue. So, I pulled 2 plugs to see what they were like and they were SOOTY!
Figured it needed to get out and blow some of that carbon and stuff out of there.
Got it out on the road and opened it up. About 3-4 mins into it and WOW she really wants to pull. Real smooth above 3k rpm, but still has a small hiccup at idle.
Had a few other things to tweak on so I came home.
Tightened the handle bars up, swapped out the head light(low beam burntout), adjusted the shifter a few notches higher to get my foot under it, adjusted the rear brake pedal travel, had to put some bolts into my rear fender, adjust my right mirror, etc.
Tommorow, I'll ride it for a while and go get a oil filter and change the oil on Sun.
Then I'll try to sync again and read the plugs to see if I can figure out if those pilot jets are going to work okay.
Oh and I'll post up a pic tommorow too.

[GLoweVA]

So after one day, (Monday, going to work and back) and 69 miles on her so far, I stop to top off the tank this morning before going to work again, and I put 2.9 Gal in!

23 MPG !!! WTF! It seems to run very smooth all the way thru to 70mph and pulls strong and steady.
Now, there's no fairing/windshield on it and there's a WHOLE lot of wind resistance to my chest, but, REALLY that much? I don't think so.
This afternoon when I get home, oil change, swap the WJ5 over from the G and pull the plugs and see how 'bad' I think they are.

Maybe Thursday, I'll get a chance to pull the seat and tank off and try to sync and idle mix it again.

I hate this time of year, daylight savings and the shorter days, leave no daylight for me to work on my bike after work. The light in the carport sucks!

[DGXSER]

Look at plug gap also George of you did not check it. Few years back, me and the XSive I just bought the SG from rode from Cincinnati to Indianapolis and back. He ran out of gas at 54 miles from a full tank. He had adjusted plug gap for a stumble he had. When we got to Indy, he corrected the gap, he made the 100 miles or so home on one tank.

[motoman]

So after one day, (Monday, going to work and back) and 69 miles on her so far, I stop to top off the tank this morning before going to work again, and I put 2.9 Gal in!

23 MPG !!! WTF! It seems to run very smooth all the way thru to 70mph and pulls strong and steady.
Now, there's no fairing/windshield on it and there's a WHOLE lot of wind resistance to my chest, but, REALLY that much? I don't think so.
This afternoon when I get home, oil change, swap the WJ5 over from the G and pull the plugs and see how 'bad' I think they are.

Maybe Thursday, I'll get a chance to pull the seat and tank off and try to sync and idle mix it again.

I hate this time of year, daylight savings and the shorter days, leave no daylight for me to work on my bike after work. The light in the carport sucks!

Guess that says all for the 'kind of an experiment'. Bottom line.......Genuine Mikuni or chase your tail. BTW........BTDT.