update on my project

[GLoweVA]

So I finally got around to putting the carbs back together and the dent out of the tank.
I put it all together (minus the filter ) and with the jumper cables ....
It fired right up!
Ran it for a few minutes and it started to backfire.
I shut it off and a few minutes later gas started pouring out of the airbox.
My left petcock weeped a little too.
So my Carb float valves aren't seating.
they're definitely clean and clear.
I think I mangled them too much when I pulled them out for the cleaning.
so where can I get some without killing my wallet?
I'm looking for the valve and seats. I've got an o-ring kit from harbor freight.
Any ideas?

[DGXSER]

Try contacting Georgefix on ebay for the parts. He generally sells kits, but might be willing to sell the individual parts.

A couple other ideas, check that your bowl gaskets are not hanging over the inside edge of the float bowl. The float can hang up on that gasket if it is not trimmed to match the bowl. Also, from time to time the float can just get cocked wierd in the carb, try tapping on the side of the bowl and see if the float breaks free and seats the valve.

[GLoweVA]

The gaskets are fine and when I set the height I made sure they didn't get hung up. I bent the back tab to limit the travel.
when I pulled the seats out, my pliers did a good number on them.
The screens are good, the seats may be a little out of round.

This is hard making posts with my tiny cell phone. I hate this keyboard.

[DGXSER]

Yeah, I hate using my phone for the site. Sounds like you might have deformed the seats enough to cause the valves to stick. Not alot of slop in them to start with.

I would never rule out the easy fix of tapping ont he bowl with a crewdriver or similar though, to easy not to try it, and it just might work.

[bikerphil]

Yep, when refilling the bowls for the first time, ALWAYS tap them with a screwdriver handle or similar. Many times even if everything is fine, the floats will initially stick and flood the carb(s).

[GLoweVA]

I had tapped the bowls before I started it.
It ran for a good 1-2mins before the backfiring started.
Then I shut it off and then the overflowing out the airbox started.
I'm guessing the backfiring was caused by the WAY too rich mix because of the overflowing condition.
I'm looking at ebay for some used float valves, or maybe I'll contact GeorgeFix and see if he can set me up with exactly what I need.

I do see to recall that the float needles looked a little worn too.
When I bench tested them with fuel to see if they leaked I had an issue with #3 and thought it was a bad o-ring, so I replaced that. (Mangling the seat more with my pliers)
(man, that brass is soft!)
MikesXS has them for $11 each, but that's $44 total. OUCH!

Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and spend what I've got to.
You can never be too safe when it come to the fuel flow.

[DGXSER]

JMHO but buying used float valves and or seats is about like buying used toilet paper, your just hoping that it's only slightly crappy.

[GLoweVA]

Update on my SG project.

I ordered 4 sets of these from Parts n More:
http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yama...ting%5D=custom
Part #48-1955 ($14 each)
They have the gasket, float needle, seat, oring, idle mix screw, oring, washer, spring and the main and pilot jets. I probably wont use the jets unless I know 100% that they are the correct size. (Won't know that until I can compare them up close) Hopefully they'll get here in the next few days.

I also got a whole lot of other parts in the mail in the past week.
Too bad the heat index is going to be in the 100+ this weekend.
Maybe if I get out there early enough in the morning, I won't die from the heat.
Other items I'm going to put in:
Replacement regulator (gave mine to Nightengale) (ebay $15)
Exhaust header nut (lost one off my G last month) (Boats $1.49)
Raptor ACCT (ebay $9)
#3 exhaust valve. (Then check valve clearances) (Cycle-Re-Cycle $25)
various side cover grommets (boats.net $18)
choke rod c-clip (the one where the handle is) (boats $2.82)

When I get home this afternoon, I'll take a pic of all these items laid out and a pic of the bike as it sits right now.

[XS11UFO]

Repost - Parts N more Carb Kits

I got kits from there for my '79 so not what you are looking at BUT. I got the kits with the most parts - for the same price, why not.

The pilot jets were wrong (4 holes instead of 3), also the main jets have 137 stamped on them not 137.5. The gaskets float needle etc. seem fine. Here is a pic of the box (which says "Made in Japan"), and the jets.

Here is a link to the thread and pics.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...939#post377939

Oops! I just realized you started that thread Glo, and you said you were ordering them. The needles and seats seem to work fine (on the bench - no leaks for 30 min when upside down and fuel supplied). I am going to do the float height test with the clear lines first then put them on this weekend.

I ended up having to buy jets (real Mikuni) from Pjmotorsports.com, like $6 each.



Scott

[GLoweVA]

Yeah Scott, I almost expect the jets to not be the right ones, but for everything else (gasket, idle screw orings and spring + washer) I couldn't pass it up. Just the float needle and seat + gasket was going to cost me about the same price, so like you said, why not get it all.
If anything, I might find another use for those pilot jets, like putting them inline with my sync rig to dampen the osillations.

I also forgot to mention that I've got a rear axle and mirrors for my G on the way too. (all 3 for $30 on ebay)

So, after I get all these part on, the only things left will be fluids and tires and a battery (which I can 'borrow' from my G if need be)

[GLoweVA]

pics

Here's a pic of what she looked like this morning:


So this morning I went out (before it got too hot) I pulled the head and replaced #3 exhuast valve. I got it all buttoned back up except the valve cover bolts.
My valve clearances are low, but not too bad.
Also got tha Raptor ACCT in too.

For those of you who have rusty exhaust header nuts, Here's a nice replacement.




It's a 6mm driver instead of the stock 8mm and only costs 1.49 from boats.net

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-08599-00.html

Mine looks a little funny now with one shiny one and 7 rusty ones.

I got the carb kits in from PartsNmore, but I haven't had a chance to pull my carbs apart to compare them yet. stay tuned.

[crazy steve]

That nut was OEM on the '78-79 bikes .... the 8mm started in '80...

[jetmechmarty]

That nut was OEM on the '78-79 bikes .... the 8mm started in '80...

If you buy OEM now, they're all the same. The nut for the E is the same part number as the nut for the SH. After a brief search, I can't find a better price than at "boats".

[GLoweVA]

If someone has the time, can you check these and make sure I'm right: (80SG)
Intake: .08, .10, .09, .10 (in mm)
Installed: 270, 270, 275, 275
Needed: 265, 265, 270, 270

I've got two 265's in my G and I can move the 270's from 1&2 to 3&4

Exhaust: .19, .15, .15, .20
Installed: 290, 295, 290, 295
Needed: 285, 285, 280, 290

I've got two 285's and a 280 in my G and I can move the 290 from 3 to 4

So, Now I've got to figure out what new ones I need in my G.
I guess that valve cover is coming off this weekend.
(Damn, that means I've got to take off the fairing!)
Ah hell, I might as well do the motor mounts on the G then too.

[GLoweVA]

Carbs

So, I finally got around to pulling my carbs apart and comparing the kits to what's installed.



Like I suspected, the jets weren't exact.
The pilot jet has too many holes and the main jet, said 110 and it looked the same, I decided not to put them in. My original ones were okay.
Got it all back together and back on the bike.
I decided that since I've got new float needles and valves, no need for the octy.
It just make things more complicated when trying to pull the tank for syncing.
I used the 'T's that were with the octy and tied both petcock lines together and then down to the carb inlet.

I got a new K&N filter on it's way.
I got it up and running, Started on the 2nd crank with the choke on and stayed running. Once warmed up, it started backfiring some after about 2-3 mins.
I'm not engine performance expert, so why does she backfire?
I know my timing is dead on. Cam dots lined up after putting head back on.
Maybe I just need to run it some more to 'break it in'.